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Old 06-11-2017, 05:41 PM   #16
almostacrayon
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Sorry to bump an old thread, but anyone have any experience getting to that adjuster on a car with both subframe riser bushings and the eccentric weld in adjusters? There is like literally no room for anything there...

Any help would be much appreciated
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Old 06-12-2017, 10:16 AM   #17
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don't apologize for bumping an old thread. this is actually how its supposed to be done here.

it shows us that you aren't a lazy butt and took the time to search.

sorry i don't have an answer to your question though.
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Old 06-12-2017, 12:15 PM   #18
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maybe cut an access hole in the trunk floor
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Old 06-12-2017, 12:57 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by almostacrayon View Post
Sorry to bump an old thread, but anyone have any experience getting to that adjuster on a car with both subframe riser bushings and the eccentric weld in adjusters? There is like literally no room for anything there...

Any help would be much appreciated

Use an obstruction wrench. "S" style. From harbor freight.
https://www.harborfreight.com/5-piec...set-99699.html

I just got onto the bolt end and with a short pipe extension on the wrench was able to adjust camber and toe. The nut will follow the eccentric washer and should not loosen.

Just my experience with this, no expert.
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Old 06-12-2017, 06:47 PM   #20
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I had to make a wrench to get to mine. And each side needed a different one-
I cut up a couple of cheap wrenches and made custom, long handles.

t
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Old 06-12-2017, 08:32 PM   #21
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Thank you so much for the responses
Just bought a set of those s style wrenches. Gonna give it a shot.

Love this site, everyone is knowledgeable and helpful
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Old 06-19-2017, 01:04 AM   #22
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Alrighty so I tried the s type wrench. Doesn't fit on the right hand side. Works fine for the left side though. the fuel tank, etc makes that spot almost impossible to move something in.
Lots of grinding on some combination wrenches has gotten me closer to setting the toe. I'm thinking of cutting the ring style part so its like a coilover wrench. Might work?

***Updated***

So the weird coilover monstrosity worked out and now have full range of adjustment.

As TobyB said you need two different wrenches for each side.
The left side is easier to get to, I went from behind the subframe with an 18mm s-style wrench. This wrench needed to be ground down to make it thinner but was easy enough.
The right side is a pain since the fuel tank blocks reaching it in the same way, so I used another cheapy 18mm s-style wrench and ground it down on from all sides and the ring itself then cut part of the ring off so it could act as a coilover wrench, this wrench was also cut in half so it didn't foul the bottom top (bottom?) of the floor pan.

I have a feeling the first wrench (18mm s-style thinned down) probably would have worked or even a bent open box wrench (ground down) if I wasn't using the subframe riser bushings. Since it feels like that extra 12mm would make a big difference.

Also to get room to put a torque wrench on the nut on the right side you need to remove the fuel filler hose.

Hope that is somewhat helpful for others in the future.
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Last edited by almostacrayon; 06-21-2017 at 04:53 AM. Reason: Updated - what worked for me.
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Old 06-19-2017, 08:01 PM   #23
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Originally Posted by AbsorbantNut View Post
I ground down an 18mm wrench to get in there for adjustments
Same here.

When I had to replace my trailing arm bushings again recently, I had to replace the bolts, because I hadn't tightened them properly a few years ago... the outer bushings had actually worn against the bolts so bad that they wore out the threads on the bolts on the outer side. My replacements were from a local store, not OEM, so the heads and nuts are 19 mm now. I have a "Drop Forged Wrench" that is thin enough on the box end to fit into that space. It was actually the one I used to model my shaved down 18 mm.
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Old 06-21-2017, 03:35 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by garagistic View Post
Put the bolt the other way. With the oem bushings (or "raised" bushings) it shouldn't be too bad. "standard" poly or delrin bushings can be an issue though. Pictured below is the needed modification (these are our delrin subframe bushings but the concept is the same)

Your pic isn't working. Care to update the link?
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