Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

86' 325 es Track Build/Street Monster

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    #16
    I was going to suggest throwing a 325i head + top end there and just running it with about 12-14PSI but it seems like you'd want a lot more power and are willing to spend the money. If that's the case then get an M52 2.8 liter 24valve (saves money over the S50/S52 engines), rebuild and boost it. Should be able to reliably reach your goals then.
    "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

    85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS/SCHWARZE
    88 M3 - LACHSSILBER/SCHWARZE
    89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II/M TECH CLOTH-ALCANTARA
    91 M TECHNIC CABRIO TURBO - MACAOBLAU/M TECH CLOTH-LEATHER

    Comment


      #17
      i think you need to immerse yourself in as much info as possible about 24v/m20/these cars if you want to make educated decisions. i remember when i first got an e30, i cant imagine the misinformed, misguided choices i wouldve made if i wanted to turbo a motor for it or do an engine swap into it. there are just so many directions to go...

      Comment


        #18
        Now this is going to be a 86 325es track/street MONSTER! hehehe...........

        Last edited by skatebline; 10-20-2009, 11:06 AM.

        Comment


          #19
          So im going to order some clecos in the next week or so and some cardboard and mock up the body pieces. Going to make the body out of sheetmetal. No messing around with fiberglass,etc....

          Probably get the outside done first while getting the car smogged and fully registered before I start on the sheetmetal dash and rollcage.

          Comment


            #20
            Well today I drew up some brackets for a rear strut bar. Going to break out the tube bender tomorrow hopefully and bend up some tube. Then send the .dxf files over to the laser cutter to cut the brackets out. But I may wait to bend the tube until I have the actual brackets in my hands.

            Made the design so that the bar has 2 bends on either end which allows the bar to be positioned close to the rear wall behind the seats not taking up any trunk space. Im also thinking of cutting a section of tube out in the middle and welding in threaded tube inserts on to either end and having a threaded double adjuster so that that bar can be installed and then tighten the middle adjuster which tightens up the strut bar having it be in tension.

            Comment

            Working...
            X