Behr blower motor resistor showed up today, gunna throw it in next time I have a few hours at work
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T-Erz remote mount turbo e30 revival thread
Got the new resistor in at work Today and heater is still doing the same thing and not turning on at all, blower motor next?
Edit: it was blowing really hot air today on the way home from work while I was on the highway cruising l but once I got into stop and go traffic the hot air stopped blowing. Maybe at higher revs the blower motor has enough power but at idle RPM's the alernator doesn't give the old blower motor enough juice? Sounds like tired blower motor to me but what do you guys think?
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkLast edited by grinchxvx; 12-08-2015, 05:58 PM.Comment
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Update: fuel pump took a shit on Thursday night trying to come home from dinner. Ordered a new walboro 340 and it will be here in a week 😎
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Tried to fix my antenna today so I could listen to the radio and just ended breaking it more. So now I'm officially on the hunt for a antenna delete plug and kenwood head unit with aux/usb input. Didn't really like the look of the antenna anyway.
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Changed fuel pump out tonight in the snow/rain with no light :,) and now the car is starting/running way better. PO used copper wire to secure it to the floater arm so I had to struggle with that and then used zip ties around the rubber pieces. Such a PITA but I'm glad it's running now
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Got a working blower motor in a few days ago and the car is still doing the same thing. So now I'm thinking either I have a air bubble in the system and that's why it only blows hot at high RPM or the actual panel and switches aren't working from inside the car.
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Also here's some bad quality turbo noises, note the 11.0 AFR at WOT😅https://vimeo.com/149643718
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At idle, not moving, if you turn the fan from 1-4 can you hear the increase in air noise?
If you only feel heat when moving, your fans aren't running. It's the outside air pushing it's way past the heater core into the cabin.
How did you verify the new blower motor worked?AWD > RWDComment
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No I don't hear any blower noise when at idle, I've even had the cover off while the car was running and it wasn't spinning on any setting.Originally posted by Kershaw View Post
It was tested before I bought it with a 12 volt power source and I was told it worked. I don't have a power probe or anything to verify though. I'm assuming the brown is the ground and the blue is power?
Are you sure? Because when I'm on the freeway I can change the fan settings and it definitely changes the amount of hot air I'm getting. At 4 it melts your face off with the car fully warmed up and at 1 it's not nearly as strong
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Pretty sure I just figured it out. I noticed in my fuse box panel there are a few relays missing/bypassed. I'm not certain but I'm pretty sure they're the k5 and k7 which have to do with the heater. Also my power mirrors don't work which is supposed to be an indicator of k7 relay gone bad
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How can you even say that and then ask me if I'm sure. :roll:Originally posted by grinchxvx View Post
I hope the relays are the fix.AWD > RWDComment
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Originally posted by Kershaw View Post
Well I could see if the heat output didn't change with different setting but it does, it's probably just a valve that opens more or less I'm guessing.
Went and looked at the fuse panel and sure enough no k5 or k7, and one of them seems to have melted and That's why it's no longer in place 😐 kind of scared to plug them in. Anyone know what the deal with that red wire is?
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red wire can be a jumper wire so fog lights and high beams can be on at the same timeComment
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Went and snagged the two relays from a e36 at the junkyard and what do you know, the heater works! It's so nice to have a working defroster in the snow 😎 only mechanical issues I really need to to fix now is the spongy brakes.
Is the rx7 BBK conversion worth it for a fast street car? I was planning on just rebuilding the stock calipers with new SS dot lines and new hawk pads/rotors but I know I'll have to change the brake booster setup to clear the manifold on 24v swaps
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Managed to dig up the specs on the turbo I'm running on my car, it's definitely small.
It's a journal bearing T3 TO4B S trim compressor with a .36 A/r and stage 3 exhaust wheel. (whatever that means)
According to the person who built the car originally while it was at sts in 2011 it's all sts components and can support up to 380 hp. When he emailed me the specs on the turbo it was all out of order so it didn't make sense to me until i googled the parts separately. Too used to looking at precision turbos I guess.
I still haven't checked for boost leaks but What I don't understand is how the car is so laggy down low with such a small AR but manages to hit the boost target of 5 psi up top and hold it there. You would think that with a boost leak it wouldn't even be able to meet the pressure of 5 psi.
Also another thing I noticed driving the car the last few days is in 1st and 2nd full boost doesn't come on till 4500rpm or so but in 3rd and on it hits 5 psi at 3000 rpm? Does it have to do with the gearing?
It's really throwing me off because my 135i hits full boost at 3000 rpm or less in any gear and doesn't really change spool much dependent on gear I'm in😕
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