Starting issues

[vr2jetta]

1990 325i, runs great but, It is still really hard to start. I crank and crank, pumping the gas, and it starts and immediatly dies. I turn it over again and it starts and runs fine. I drive it with no issues and turn it off. Go to start it again and it starts right up, but if I let it sit for about 15 minutes, it does the same thing, crank and crank till it finally starts. Any ideas?

[vr2jetta]

Forgot to mention, I just put a new head on, new timing belt, tensioner, water pump thermostat, FPR, fan clutch, fuel filter and am running no air filter because the last one was shot, got a new one on order.

[jlevie]

Hard cold starting that vanishes on a hot engine will be a bad DME temp sensor or intake leaks. The definitive test for intake leaks is to have the intake smoke tested.

[vr2jetta]

It starts right up when hot, yes, but I will shut it off and go to start it up 10-15 minutes later, it is hard to start, and the motor is hot still.

[jmc1590]

Keep in mind the "pumping the gas" actually has nothing to do with gas on our cars. The ECU determines the flow to the injectors. What you are doing however, is providing more air to the mix, leaning out the mixture.

I would double check your sensors that feed the ECU first. The Bentley provides a fairly good diagnostics for testing each one. Additionally, check your fuel pressure at the rail. It could be something as simple as the main fuel pump is allowing pressure to seep past it, requiring you to rebuild pressure each time you go to start.

Running properly, these engines require very little coersion to start. 3, maybe 4 cranks and it should catch right away.

Knowing you just had a major rebuild, does your instrument panel have a functional CEL? Have you been able to pull any codes from it yet? That can provide invaluable information towards finding your culprit.

[Stevie30]

I had a similar intermittent problem and discovered that the shielded cable from the crankshaft position sensor had rubbed the fan belt pulley until it was shorting to ground. At random times the car would refuse to start, and after sitting overnight would start and run great. The problem started last October and I finally found the faulty wire today.

[vr2jetta]

I am aware that pumping the gas has nothing to do with giving the car extra fuel, maybe its from all the years of carbed cars and it is pre-programmed in my mind to do it. It did throw a coolant temp sensor code, but I had figured it was maybe due to the fact when I initially tried to start it there was no coolant in the system. I've added coolant since and disconnected the battery but the light is still on. I just went outside and changed it with the spare I got with the new head and it started right up. I'll give it 15 minutes, then try it. Tomorrow I will drive the piss out of it around town to be sure it all works properly before I hand it off to the wife. I was also thinking maybe a fuel transfer pump but earlier when I had the problem I could smell fuel coming from the tailpipe. And when I did the head, I was sure to tie the wires going along the front very well because I did NOT like the way BMW routed them, very concerned about the water pump rubbing them, but tomorrow I will check them when I have more light.

[vr2jetta]

Is there a way to clear the CEL without taking it to a dealer? Also the inspection light and oil service light?

[vr2jetta]

Well, it seems to be better since I changed the temp sensor, but it is not near as hot as it was earlier today, so driving it tomorrow will be the test. I was also wondering if it could be bad gas because it had sat........I would say at least 6 months before I got it. I got it 2 weeks ago and now its all back together. It had maybe 1/4 of a tank and I put 7 gallons in it.

[vr2jetta]

woke up this morning and the car would not rev up at all. I said fuck it and took the jetta to drop my daughter off at school. Went to the parts store and picked up new distributor cap, rotor and plugs, now it runs like a top! Well see how it does tomorrow morning when its cold.

[jmc1590]

Clearing the inspection and oil lights are quite easy. Place a jumper (or a bent paper clip) in the #7 and #19 locations. Turn the ignition to on (not start.) Wait several seconds. Timing is important. The "oil" interval warning will go out first, if it is on. Continuing to wait will allow the "inspection" light to go out next. Turn ignition to off and remove the jumper. (Pics available if needed.)

As far as the CEL, it should go out when the fault ends. If it is always on, you still have sensor issues.

[vr2jetta]

Place a jumper (or a bent paper clip) in the #7 and #19 locations.

Where at? In the big round inspection plug in the engine compartment?

[vr2jetta]

Nevermind, I went ahead and did it in the big round diagnostic port under the hood and it worked. THANKS!!! Is the brake lining light like the CEL, it will go out when it is fixed? I only ask because the brakes seen fine, a little surface rust but other than that they look ok.

[vr2jetta]

I checked the CEL code again and threw a 1223, coolant temp sensor, so I guess I will buy a new one. All these new parts are killing me! This fuckin' PO was a totally neglectful tool!!

[King Tut]

Glad you got it running. I got your message, but I forgot to call you back tonight. I hope I don't run into any of these issues when I finally go to start mine again.