sealed beams to euro ellipsoids wiring

[stumble_t]

so I wired up my euro ellipsoids today going from sealed beams. I didn't want to deal with tinkering around with the fuse box or relay so I created a simple diode connector that can easily be removed if I ever want to go back to the sealed beams.


first step was to get the diodes. I used 6A, 100v diodes as this was the best rat-shak had. (55w lows shouldn't draw more than 5A anyways as the circuit is protected by a 7.5A fuse)



Soldered on some 16ga wire as the diode leads wouldn't fit in the 1/4" spade connectors.



All shrunk up and ready for install.



Let there be light! :)

Im no engineer so we will see, but works for now. This may be an easier way to go, especially for you HID guys, as it does not interrupt power switching from low to high on the low side and can be quickly reversed.

Thanks for looking.

[StreuB1]

Still working properly?

Can you show where this is connected??

I bought a car and the relays were jumpered out and have DDMs installed. Im redoing the lighting and have euro depos and bought new DDMs (one died) and want to clean up the wiring more. This looks like it will do that.

[stumble_t]

Yes still working properly. Ill update w/more pics tomorrow...

[16v of E30]

Im no electrician but I can confidently say that this is probably the best bet, you just saved $200. Its clean, simple and pretty much exactly what youd get somewhere else.

[StreuB1]

Thanks much appreciated!

Just replaced my oldddddd euro projectors and old DDM HID's with brand new depo H1's and the new 55w raptors (5000k's) and its completely unreal the difference. I was diring home lastnight after work (aimed them in the shop) and they blew my mind. The color is pure white, illumination is astonishing and the best is the angle and distance of the uptick. Some of the best money I've spent to date, and I've spent ALOT!

[X_WizarD_X]

I'd like to see more photos also....Just about to install euro ellip's in mine also..

[McGyver]

wow, as long as Amps, Watts, and Voltage are accounted for in the components used and it is protected from water, i don't see how it could fail. this is definitly the route i will take when i get my new headlights.

[stumble_t]

here's a crappy (sorry) photo of the diode in the OE connector

[Grant8311]

Sorry I am a bit new to this (BMW newbie), but what is the reason for this? when I took my car apart I only see two leads for the connector, so I figured there would be a relay to already keep the low beams on while the high beams are on?

[JasonC]

This seems like alot of work for something as simple as just hooking up a + to + and - to -. The popping two relays and running a 2" long wire from one prong to the other.

[BimmerScreamer]

so what bulbs are being used, I was just going to stick with the H1's that my smilies are made for and I didnt think I would have to do anything like this

[stumble_t]

This seems like alot of work...

The reason I did this was to provide myself with a quickly reversible alternative that didn't involve bridging relays in the fuse panel

so what bulbs are being used...

H1 OSRAM Silverstars

...what is the reason for this?...

If your car has dual filament low beams(sealed beam) switching to ellipsoids will require some form of mod to make the highs and lows operate at the same time.

[X_WizarD_X]

If your car has dual filament low beams(sealed beam) switching to ellipsoids will require some form of mod to make the highs and lows operate at the same time.

91 318is must use a different setup...I went from sealed beams to H4 lows/H1 highs and now to Euro Ellip's (all H1) and my lows have always stayed on with my highs without any "relay or fuse box" fix.. I still use the original headlight wiring and just use spade's to hook up the lights to the original connectors..
Next step is some 5000k HID's..

Dan