Trailing arm bushings???

[Blip Bavarian]

Im looking for opinions/reviews of the acentric adjustable trailing arm bushings. Im looking at getting the AKG set, but they are pretty pricey.

http://www.akgmotorsport.com/catalog/catalog.php

What are you guys running?

How is the adjustability? How much camber can you dial in with them?

Thanks,
-Matt

[Massive Lee]

Hi Matt.

I have AKG's eccentric bushings. They just are as good/bad as any other adjustable eccentric bushing. They are a waste of time and money. I strongly suggest the slotted adjusters. They cost slightly less, are as difficult to install, but at least they work much better and allow independent adjustment of camber vs toe.

You might want to consider solid subframe mounts that raise the subframe, automatically removing some of the unwanted camber caused by lowering the car. As you'll run a V8, I guess you also want to keep the subframe from moving around. I know, it is another expense, and more work, but I guess it comes with the V8 ownership ;-)

[jlevie]

You can get about a degree of camber or toe with eccentric bushings. But they are a royal pain to align and you are fiddling with both bushings for each adjustment. Unless the tech gets real lucky, figure on 4-6 hours of labor to set the rear alignment. And they tend to work out of adjustment.

A much better solution is the weld in adjustable RTAB's. They provide essentially independent adjustment of cam and toe and don't tend to drift out of adjustment.

[Blip Bavarian]

Hi Matt.

I have AKG's eccentric bushings. They just are as good/bad as any other adjustable eccentric bushing. They are a waste of time and money. I strongly suggest the slotted adjusters. They cost slightly less, are as difficult to install, but at least they work much better and allow independent adjustment of camber vs toe.

You might want to consider solid subframe mounts that raise the subframe, automatically removing some of the unwanted camber caused by lowering the car. As you'll run a V8, I guess you also want to keep the subframe from moving around. I know, it is another expense, and more work, but I guess it comes with the V8 ownership ;-)

Do you have any more info on the slotted adjusters you mentioned. I am not familiar with them? who makes them? link?

I just bought and installed some powerflex subfarme mounts. I am gonna try em for now, and may go with your solid mounts down the road.

[whiltebeitel]

One the Spec E30 forums, there are complaints that thses will go out of alignment fairly quickly. They seem to prefer the weld-in kits.

http://store.bimmerworld.com/shared/...t=products.asp the second from the top.

[rThor432]

As mentioned, weld-in adjustment kits are the way to go. Korman and IE carry them. Basically the "kit" consists of E39 eccentric adjustment bolts, washers, and nuts with slotted machined plates that will be welded in place where the trailing arm mounts.

[funcrew]

I'm NOT recommending the eccentric bushings, but Pelican Parts sells Febi eccentric bushings for $33 a side. I agree with the previous replies that weld-in is the way to go. The weld-in ones are illegal in SCCA STX class, unfortunately for me.

[blueapplesoda]

i have a akg poly eccentric rtabs

it is a royal pita to adjust

it squeeks like hell

they come out of adjustment over long periods of time

car woke up in handling...rear end was just that much more in tune with the rest of the car.

i have mixed feelings about them, and would not put them back in if i had to do it again.

[Blip Bavarian]

Thanks for all the advice guys. Looks like i will be going with a weld in setup.

For those of you who have a weld in setup, did you do then work yourself? and how difficult was it. Im not worried about the notching or welding, i just dont want to screw up the geometry. Thanks.

[evil_twin]

subscribing to this thread :)

[Massive Lee]

When I purchased and fitted the eccentric bushings, I thought I would save time and money (even doing it myself). Fukk that. That was a waste of my time and dough. If I had known, I would have fitted sliders. Which I am going to do this Spring and dump the eccentric bushings. Not worth it.

[Blip Bavarian]

which bushings are you guys running with the weld on kits? Does any standard non eccentric bushing work? Thanks for the help.

[rThor432]

I did the weld-in setup myself. It was very simple and straight-foward. Just blast/grind the paint off the spots that will be welded, create a good clean ground spot, bolt the plates in where you want them to stay, and do run a few beads. Takes less than an hour.

[Aptyp]

you're good.... takes me over an hour grinding slots.

Also, IE and many other aren't the same as Korman (McReynolds) kits. Korman allows for a more adjustment and uses custom made bolts, not e39 ones. But if I was to do this again, I'd go ahead and get IE kits, as you simply don't need that much adjustment.

[rThor432]

you're good.... takes me over an hour grinding slots.

Also, IE and many other aren't the same as Korman (McReynolds) kits. Korman allows for a more adjustment and uses custom made bolts, not e39 ones. But if I was to do this again, I'd go ahead and get IE kits, as you simply don't need that much adjustment.

My 90 degree dremel opens the slots up quickly. The inboard slots by the diff are the hardest. Those two alone took as long as the rest of them combined.

I thought about using Korman's kit, but I agree with your thought that it is an unnecessary amount of adjustment. The E39 bolts will easily set your toe right and can cancel out excessive negative camber no problem, even on a slammed car if they are set up right.