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No Spark No Fuel, blown main relay (white one) Bad ECU possibly HElP!

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    No Spark No Fuel, blown main relay (white one) Bad ECU possibly HElP!

    Swapped my m20 into my 318is and theres no spark or fuel, we checked the main relay it was dead so we then checked bypassed the relay (my buddys a UTI graduate) and got the fuel pump to prime but the ECU is still not telling it to ground to turn on the fuel pump and ground the distrib. whats your opinion? he thinks the ecu is dead.




    #2
    Are you getting ur idiot lights on when your battery is connected? like a back feed to the system?
    my project

    http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=164374

    Comment


      #3
      which lights? with key on they are all lit up so yes



      Comment


        #4
        also ive been reserching for a while now and ive been mainly seeing bad ecu and relay if that helps



        Comment


          #5
          I think I have a spare 173 laying around I might loan out, and I work in TacoTown

          Closing SOON!
          "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

          Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

          Thanks for 10 years of fun!

          Comment


            #6
            Luke I will call you tomorrow once I'm off at 2. I gotta go to the stealership for a relay anyways



            Comment


              #7
              Is there spark when cranking the engine? No spark and no fuel pump operation suggests a lack of timing data to the DME (no signal from the CPS), no power or START signal to the DME, or a bad DME. Since this is a transplant, run through what's below to find the problem.

              For the engine to run the following conditions must be met:

              Power on DME pins:
              27 Start Input
              18 Un-switched Power input
              37 Power Input from Main Relay

              Ground on DME pins 2, 14, 19, 24

              Timing data from the CPS on DME pins 47 & 48 from a rotating engine

              To have spark power must be present at the coil positive and ground pulses
              from the DME's pin 1 must reach the coil negative. Power to the coil is
              controlled by the ignition switch via C101. When checking for spark, use the
              output lead from the coil to eliminate the distributor, rotor and plug wires.

              To have injector firing power must be present at each injector and ground
              pulses from the DME's pin 16 (Bank1) and pin 17 (Bank2) must reach the
              respective injector bank. Note that the injectors are wired as two banks of
              three. With cylinder 1,3,5 being bank 1 and 2,4,6 being bank 2. Power to the
              injectors is controlled by the main relay.

              The fuel pump relay must have power on pin 86 (relay coil) from the main relay
              output (pin 87) and power on pin 30. The DME will ground pin 85 to turn on the
              relay and power the pump(s) via pin 87. Of the above, only the fuel pump power
              is fused. So if the there's power at pin 87, but not at the pump, check fuse
              11.

              The main relay and DME pin 18 receive power from the smaller of the two wires
              that connect to the battery's positive terminal. That wire incorporates an
              in-line fuse. When the DME is presented with a start signal, it grounds the
              main relay pin 85 and furnishes power to the fuel pump relay, injectors, and
              DME.

              Troubleshooting:

              Disconnect the battery and the DME cable. Then:

              1) Disconnect the coil negative and check continuity from that connector to
              DME pin 1. Also verify that from DME pin 1 to ground is an open circuit.

              2) Check the resistance across DME 47 & 48, which should be 500-560
              ohms. If the CPS is dismounted, the resistance can be seen to change
              from about 500 to 540-560 when a ferrous object is brought to the face of the
              sensor. Neither pin should be grounded.

              3) Check for continuity from DME 36 to main relay 85 and from DME 3 to fuel
              pump relay 85.

              Reconnect the coil, remount the CPS (air gap should be 0.040"), plug the
              relays back in, reconnect the DME, and connect the battery. Then do the
              following checks:

              1) With the key off, verify that power is present at DME pin 18 and main relay
              86 & 30.

              2) With the key on, verify that power is present at DME pin 27 and pin
              18. Power to pin 18 is from the main relay and there should be power to the
              injectors and fuel pump relay.

              3) With the key on, verify that no voltage is present at the DME grounds (2,
              14, 19, 24).

              4) Verify that power is present at the coil positive and at fuel pump relay
              pin 30. Those get switched power from the ignition switch via C101.

              The engine will start and run (if poorly) with only those connections to the
              DME in place. The other signals from Cylinder ID, AFM, temp sensor, etc., are
              necessary for proper operation. But they won't prevent the engine from firing.

              IMPORTANT:

              A power check means seeing a voltage within about a tenth of a volt of what
              you measure across the batter terminals, which should be at least 12.6v on a
              charged battery.

              A continuity check means seeing less that 1 ohm of resistance.

              An open circuit means seeing a resistance of at least 100k ohms.

              A good quality auto-ranging Digital Multimeter will make these tests much
              easier.
              The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
              Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

              Comment


                #8
                I work 10 to 7, then have pool, plus I gotta find the damn thing in the avalanche that is my garage right now.

                In other words, I might not have it today...

                Closing SOON!
                "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                Thanks for 10 years of fun!

                Comment


                  #9
                  thanks luke and jlevie i will be going over the c101 plug with a buddy making sure the connections are proper luke said to do this first since it is a transplant, from there i will begin troubleshooting some more. thanks for the quick response and all of the info that my buddy will understand much more then i will when it comes to wiring :)

                  Zeke



                  Comment


                    #10
                    '89 motor/harness into an M42 car. I bet only a couple wires are different, but there will be differences!

                    Zeke, what this means is you need to document so the next poor fool who tries this will get some love.

                    Closing SOON!
                    "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                    Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                    Thanks for 10 years of fun!

                    Comment


                      #11
                      will do luke, im sure i will be calling you around 4 or 5 today haha. Yah i have not found a single link on swapping an m20 into a 318 its like im the first or somthing. oh all the chasis wires are different colors so tracing wiring diagrams will be fun



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                        #12
                        does no one have an 89 m20 c101 pinout? i have looked and looked.



                        Comment


                          #13
                          did u connect the coil wire to a ground or did u accidently connect it to the positive on the battery ?
                          my project

                          http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=164374

                          Comment


                            #14
                            jlevie brought the knowledge. im so impressed that he can just write that up off the top of his head.
                            AWD > RWD

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Kershaw View Post
                              jlevie brought the knowledge. im so impressed that he can just write that up off the top of his head.
                              Yeah, no shit!

                              I went to Zekes house and got the thing running in about 5 minutes: CPS and CIL were reversed...OOPSIE!

                              Closing SOON!
                              "LAST CHANCE FOR G.A.S." DEAL IS ON NOW

                              Luke AT germanaudiospecialties DOT com or text 425-761-6450, or for quickest answers, call me at the shop 360-669-0398

                              Thanks for 10 years of fun!

                              Comment

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