S50 + G260 in E30 Questions! Help pleeeease!

[durtyE30]

Okay guys! I've recently finished getting the S50B30US into my 1991 318iC, got the G260 all attached and what have you, and then I come upon two to three issues.

First, when the clutch is fully depressed, as in disengaged, it makes a throwout bearing noise. The bearing has been seated properly and is a brand new unit. I'm using a G260 + S50 fly, s50 clutch, s50 pressure plate, and the ZF310/320 and G260 throwout bearings are supposedly the same to my knowledge? Should I be using the 323i Euro TOB?

Second, what is a common point of failure that would cause overheating? Change t-state, water-pump, and check compression? My radiator is known as good as the M42 that was just in there ran fine with it and not too hot either.

Third, would Vanos cause power-robbing above 4k RPMS? I'm coming upon this issue where the motor is lacking power...

Finally, is a puller fan NEEDED with the stock Pusher wired to always on with ignition? I don't really see much room to put one, but I've got a Mishimoto 14" low-profile puller ready to go...if I find a place to put it.

OH ALSO, Temperature sensor isn't working, so I replace the one on manifold with an M20 brown-top sensor correct?

[CoClimber]

First, did you put an M20 pilot bearing in the S50? The G260 shaft has a smaller OD than the ZF transmission.

Second, did you bleed the radiator?

Third, did you connect the VSS wire from the speedometer to the DME? The vanos won't activate without the VSS signal.

I'm currently not running any fan but that's on my todo list.

[Wanganstyle]

I just drove TODAY the M20+G260+ s50 usa dual mass flywheel+s52 usa clutch setup today, it was running g260 TOB + e20 g260 slave and master cylinder.

Pretty nice feeling, stiffer pp than stock g260.

[durtyE30]

First, did you put an M20 pilot bearing in the S50? The G260 shaft has a smaller OD than the ZF transmission.

Second, did you bleed the radiator?

Third, did you connect the VSS wire from the speedometer to the DME? The vanos won't activate without the VSS signal.

I'm currently not running any fan but that's on my todo list.

I used S50 pilot bearing...I really really hope I won't need to grab an M20 one for that...such a pain in the ass to do...

Radiator was bled but I'll give it another go because I didn't do it personally so I don't know it was done properly.

The VSS Wire should come in the AKG wiring harness adapter should it not? If not I'll wire it in, but I'm using the AKG adapter to prevent issues like that. I really hope it's a combo of all these things...except pilot bearing, that will be a bitch and a half.

[Wanganstyle]

the pilot bearings should be the same pn. - please double check this on Real oem or the like!


tob visually look the same although I have not put caliper to it.

if pn are x referenced and are different then the TOB should match the clutch fork and transmission

[AndrewK]

I hate to say it, but G260 with S50 pilot bearing is probably the source of your noise. The front of your transmission input shaft is loose and not being properly retained in the back of the crank. That's got to allow it to wobble around and make some noises.

The best trick I've found to remove pilot bearings is bread. Pack it in the hole, get a tight fitting dowel, keep tapping more and more bread in the hole until the bearing pops out. I've also heard of using a heavy grease to do this, but bread isn't as messy.

If you haven't already done it, replace the rear main seal while you're in there. That's really the only significant leak on my build. I knew better and I'm so upset at myself that I didn't replace it when it was easy to do.

[328ijunkie]

Pilot bearings have completely different ID sizes.
VSS is prob not wired or cams are mistimed or vanos has shit the bed
And throw that M42 Radiator in the trash. Or spend the next 23 years bleeding it. At idle with the motor warm it should take a while before your fan should kick on and it sure as hell shouldnt overheat with the fan hardwired.
And what you mean when you say you replaced the one on the manifold?

[durtyE30]

m42 rad gonna be kept for cost effectiveness.

m20 pilot bearing and rear main seal will be ordered.

fan is hardwired to always on

also, i dont know but i was told the brown top m20 temp sensor on the block under manifold needs to be swapped in instead of s50 one
Sent from my DROID3 using Tapatalk

[328ijunkie]

Its not cost effective to overheat all the time.. ;)

Thats right about the temp sensor. And M20/S52 RMS's are the same.

[luckysnafu]

Best way to bleed swapped cars with the m42 radiators is to drill a small hole (1/8") at the top (arrow) of the thermostat to allow air to escape without having to get the car up to operating temperature. When bleeding the car put the front end up on ramps or jack stands to help move air out of the engine. Bleed it a couple of times to get all the air out and you should be good to go.

[durtyE30]

Its not cost effective to overheat all the time.. ;)

Thats right about the temp sensor. And M20/S52 RMS's are the same.

RMS's?

Also can I use the M42 sensor or must I use an M20? I'd love to just yank it off my M42 instead.

@luckysnafu, what do you do when it's finished bleeding? Just cap it or throw a screw in the t-stat housing that fits it? Or just leave it open? I'd fear leaving an open hole there....I feel ambient moisture in Florida could be quite detrimental in a case like that...

[luckysnafu]

@luckysnafu, what do you do when it's finished bleeding? Just cap it or throw a screw in the t-stat housing that fits it? Or just leave it open? I'd fear leaving an open hole there....I feel ambient moisture in Florida could be quite detrimental in a case like that...

You just leave the hole in the thermostat. Do you understand how the thermostat works in relation to the cooling system? It's a closed loop system that keep water circulating in the engine block until the thermostat gets up to temp then it opens and allows water to flow through the radiator to cool it off. Having a small hole in the top of the thermostat will allow a trivial amount of water to go through the radiator prior to the t-stat opening when up to operating temp.

[AndrewK]

RMS's

Rear main seal

what do you do when it's finished bleeding? Just cap it or throw a screw in the t-stat housing that fits it? Or just leave it open? I'd fear leaving an open hole there

The hole should be in the top of the thermostat itself, not the housing. Just wanted to make sure you understood that correctly.

[durtyE30]

Rear main seal



The hole should be in the top of the thermostat itself, not the housing. Just wanted to make sure you understood that correctly.

Thanks for the help, makes sense now...I was like...why in the housing...

I'm getting the pilot bearing, new t-stat, waterpump, RMS, G260 front seal, and S50 Timing case gasket, along with the Besian systems VANOS rattle and seal kits.

The compression is good and across the board the biggest difference is 3% between highest and lowest compression numbers. Leakdown resulted in 8% difference.

I'm gonna really get crackin on it this weekend and see what we can get done, hopefully an S50B30US powered E30 on Florida's public roads, not my friend's driveway :D

Thanks for all the help guys, and anything else you may have to mention is very handy.

Did I ask about the tach being about 1k RPM off? What would cause that? VSS wire?

[lbreevesii]

coding plug