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How much did you pay for the setup? And did you cut or weld your strut housings?
German Engineering Coilovers - $340
Front strut housings were sectioned 1"
Front adjusters are at full height, rears are half height
The shocks are all KYB AGX single adjustable. Fronts are for the rear of a 2nd gen mr2, and rears are for a early 90's Camaro. You can read all about that fitment here. The shocks and necessary machine work/hardware came to less than $400.
I paid a fabrication shop to cut and section the strut housing and make spacers for the shocks ($50), so all in, the setup came to less than $800.
The ride is firm but acceptable, while being low, but stiff enough to keep from bottoming out. I feel that the car feels more comfortable, while remaining more planted than my Miata with h&r race springs.
How much did you pay for the setup? And did you cut or weld your strut housings?
No matter what brand (aside from the glorious JOM's) there will be cutting and welding involved. That labor+corecharge is worked into the price of some coilovers (those that give you a bolt on and go option) OR that labor/core charge is something you're intended to handle.
GC, GE, TC, and IE all use a similar method of sectioning your existing strut tube.
BC, Megan, Stance, and all other tawainese based c/o's are designed to cut the base of your strut tube and angle/weld a new tube on.
...... and this question has been asked just once or twice in the past, google will yield many happy hours worth of results.
No matter what brand (aside from the glorious JOM's) there will be cutting and welding involved. That labor+corecharge is worked into the price of some coilovers (those that give you a bolt on and go option) OR that labor/core charge is something you're intended to handle.
GC, GE, TC, and IE all use a similar method of sectioning your existing strut tube.
BC, Megan, Stance, and all other tawainese based c/o's are designed to cut the base of your strut tube and angle/weld a new tube on.
...... and this question has been asked just once or twice in the past, google will yield many happy hours worth of results.
Did you read my questions?
I asked about CATuned more specially didn't see many reviews on those and asked about welding or cutting for the GEs all of the above mentioned in the long reply. I did google these things read old stuff on forums and then came here for opinions, thanks but no thanks on the backhanded info, tired of reading the same thing, then skip the reply button
...am I taking up your precious internet space?
I don't think SkiFree was trying to come off aggressively. I think he was just trying to make the point that ANY coilovers, when used with the intent of getting low, will require cutting/welding, but different brands take a different approach.
I'd give him the benefit of a doubt as I have never seen SkiFree post a rude or aggressive comment in my (or his) years here on r3v.
Also, he may have just been posting a blanket, cover all the bases summary in order to help not just you, but anyone else who might come across this thread after searching for coilover info. I understand that being told to 'google it' comes across as dismissive, but to be fair, it IS a subject that has more info available than a single person could ever hope to get through. The ride height thread and Camaro shock threads alone have TONS of info on different peoples experience with different setups.
OP, I am confused by your attitude. I thought what I said may be of a help to you, given the generic questions you asked.
If that was your intention then I apologize, I got an attitude at the comment that I was told to google it and given a e30 coilovers 101 like I didn't already research the topic and you didn't really answer my question with an opinion on a brand. I felt as if you where trying to shut me down as a noob. Like I said if your intentions were in fact genuine then no harm no foul. I hate how people on r3v get super high and mighty and shit on people's threads so I just snap reacted because I didn't know you. I'm always gonna keep it real and if I'm wrong I apologize
If that was your intention then I apologize, I got an attitude at the comment that I was told to google it and given a e30 coilovers 101 like I didn't already research the topic and you didn't really answer my question with an opinion on a brand. I felt as if you where trying to shut me down as a noob. Like I said if your intentions were in fact genuine then no harm no foul. I hate how people on r3v get super high and mighty and shit on people's threads so I just snap reacted because I didn't know you. I'm always gonna keep it real and if I'm wrong I apologize
SkiFree might refrain from speculation on particular brands, seeing as he might otherwise be accused of being a 'little' biased.
He really hit the nail on the head though. Pretty much all of the kits are slightly different ways to get the same result. Spring rates and shocks are what matter, not adjuster brand a vs adjuster brand b.
Just avoid generic 'made in china' shocks and mystery rate springs (like jom or raceland), and it will be fine.
it has been asked a few times before though. Opinions on people running them for a period of time I mean.
BC's are made in taiwan. I know about half a dozen people who run them, all sorts of different spring rates, and have been happy with them. I've had mine in for quite awhile now, they perform well, though I do have the "infamous" BC rattle in one of the rears. The damper continues to work as it should though. I've had them out on the track and they perform even better than on the road as I feel 8kg/10kg split is far too stiff for roads with lots of bumps and pot holes. You end up riding right over the top of the bumps which really upsets the handling of the car. If you want something to track and daily drive, id probably look at going 6kg/8kg split and fine tune things with swaybars and damper settings if you find it's not quite stiff enough. With 6kg/8kg springs and the dampers set about half way, it was pretty comfortable to drive on the street. Stiff, but still with plenty of travel and cushioning to absorb the bumps. With 8kg/10kg springs now it's a little much to drive every day on bad roads, even on the track I've complete removed my rear swaybar as the car was way, way too twitchy. Running a 23mm swaybar on the front now as I didn't like the ride or response with the dampers set to hard, so on the track i've backed them off a bit and went a little stiffer with the bar. Feels much better now.
If you want a cheap setup with proper base height adjustments, then I think you could do much worse than buy them. I figured, if I got 4 or 5 years out of them, for the price, it is pretty cheap. Then we'll see just how difficult they are to rebuild and revalve once they crap out. In theory, anyone should be able to rebuild them, even if it means replacing everything internally. The adjusters are never going to be an issue, they look like they will last for ever.
I have a GC setup, and a setup of German Engineering coilovers/Koni Sports/Ground Control race plates without sectioned housings, but I plan to section the housings in the future and run shorter konis.
I love both setups, but I would go ground control if I went back and did it again just for the simplicity of getting everything in one place.
I'm not a fan of the chinese setups, and I'm under the assumption that they're all the same (Because they all look the same except for colour, and are cheap as hell) but I sat along in a friend's BRZ that ran a BC setup, and it worked well. Plus there's that E30 guy in Australia doing hillclimbs on a set of BC's with no issues.
Originally posted by priapism
My girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.
Originally posted by shameson
Usually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30
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