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Ireland rear camber / toe kits

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    Ireland rear camber / toe kits

    Who else is running these? I just went to do an alignment on mine last night (I work at a dealer, we have a really nice alignment machine), but the TOE adjuster Eccentrics are set up so that the NUT is on the subframe bushing side, and the only tool you can get on the NUTS is an 18mm OPEN END WRENCH, due to having barely any room.
    I remember something about this when I put the kit in, but cant remember exactly WHY I installed them this way.. It looks like the complete subframe and trailing arms would have to be out on the floor if you wanted to assemble the bolts from the other direction, but Im still not even sure if they would slide in from that direction (the subframe bushing area might be in the way of the eccentric bolt.)
    Either way, this setup sucks because the nut is corroded to the bolt, an open end wrench slips (I tried 4 different wrenches, a snap on flank drive included).. and Even if it didnt slip, theres hardly any room to get a turn on the nuts (the other side DID turn, but its almost a nightmare trying to position the wrench in there to turn the bastard.
    and I dont want to use a torch to heat it.. Im gonna either melt my urethane bushings, or light my gas tank on fire

    #2
    Ive got the posi-lock setup, but I had a shop do the install. He said it was a pain because theres no room.
    Simon
    Current Cars:
    -1999 996.1 911 4/98 3.8L 6-Speed, 21st Century Beetle

    Make R3V Great Again -2020

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      #3
      Originally posted by bimmer630 View Post
      Who else is running these? I just went to do an alignment on mine last night (I work at a dealer, we have a really nice alignment machine), but the TOE adjuster Eccentrics are set up so that the NUT is on the subframe bushing side, and the only tool you can get on the NUTS is an 18mm OPEN END WRENCH, due to having barely any room.
      I remember something about this when I put the kit in, but cant remember exactly WHY I installed them this way.. It looks like the complete subframe and trailing arms would have to be out on the floor if you wanted to assemble the bolts from the other direction, but Im still not even sure if they would slide in from that direction (the subframe bushing area might be in the way of the eccentric bolt.)
      Either way, this setup sucks because the nut is corroded to the bolt, an open end wrench slips (I tried 4 different wrenches, a snap on flank drive included).. and Even if it didnt slip, theres hardly any room to get a turn on the nuts (the other side DID turn, but its almost a nightmare trying to position the wrench in there to turn the bastard.
      and I dont want to use a torch to heat it.. Im gonna either melt my urethane bushings, or light my gas tank on fire
      Im installing a new subframe and have the eccentric adjusters. Do you recommend any particular change in this setup to make alignments easier once the subframe is up and installed. Right now it sounds like the easiest way(which is a long & laborious task) is to drop the subframe to do the alignment. Please tell me I won't have to drop the subframe everytime I want to do an alignment
      sigpic

      1990 325is 2JZGTE Swap
      1989 325ix Coupe
      1988 325is Coupe
      1988 325i Euro Vert

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        #4
        I trimmed off part of the urethane subframe bushing to get access to the nut, and then ground down an 18 mm wrench to fit in the slot, but even so, it's a pain to adjust. A PRO3 racer suggested I remove the fuel tank and install a fuel cell in the trunk.....right.

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          #5
          lol... problems adjusting the camber and toe?? okay just uh, remove this here fuel tank and get a fuel cell... there ya go. :?
          sigpic

          1990 325is 2JZGTE Swap
          1989 325ix Coupe
          1988 325is Coupe
          1988 325i Euro Vert

          Comment

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