I think I probably will have answers to a lot of people's S54 E30 swap questions in my parts list.
For the love of god, if you are planning to rebuild your engine or do any maintenance that involves a threaded hole, please PLEASE get all the taps necessary to run through the holes. This is especially important on the holes on the block that accessories/mount arms/etc bolt to, all the oil pan holes, and if you do the headgasket its a MUST to do the head stud holes, or else you will get improper/uneven torque when trying to get the head right.
Body:
Replaced sunroof cables/guides
Euro grills
IS lip
HID headlights
Black kidneys
US ellips
Smoked turn signals
Z3 antenna
Wiring:
Andrew's harness (needs user supplied e46 m3 fuel pump relay)
Brakes:
2002 brake booster
E46 M3 front calipers
E46 325 front rotors
E46 325 rear rotors
E39 aluminum rear calipers
z3 e-brake shoes/hardware
stock E30 master
Engine/head:
S54 DME performance tune by Markert Motor Works
Every S54 Beisan part
head work (3 angle valve job, r&r rocker arms, pressure tested, cleaned, supertech valve stems, very slightly decked/surfaced)
Cometic 0.040 MLS head gasket
valve adjustment
Replaced all seals/o-rings/gaskets/etc
ARP headstuds
Engine/block: (machine work done by Wayne Calvert Precision Engines)
Slight hone on cylinder walls
Block cleaned/pressure tested
JE pistons 297117
stock rods
Calico coated rod bearings
ARP rod bolts
Calico coated main bearings
ARP main bolts
Align honed mains
Arc asylum S54 oil pan and subframe (can't use e34 oil sender with this pan as pan is too short)
Condor 24V mounts
Engine fuel/misc:
Castro motorsports airbox/intake
IAT relocation to behind headlight
Macht Schnell silicone intake elbow
Replaced MAF
E30 charcoal canister
E36 M52 AC compressor bracket and AC compressor - I had to use belt number 340K5 with this. E46 M3 belt is 325K5 and too short. E36 is 355K5 and too long. 340 is a tight fit getting it over the tensioner but I think it is the right choice over 345K5, which may be a viable option but is a few $ more
TRE 255lph fuel pump
15A fuel pump fuse (will keep blowing stock E30 7A fuse. E46 M3 fuse I think is 20A for fuel pump but 15 works fine)
Kassel FPR barbed hose adapter
Updated part number e46 m3 accelerator pedal (fixed some issue with sticking supposedly). I mounted this in stock location. Cut the flat part off of the old e30 pedal with the plastic "clip" part that snaps into e30 floor pan. Cut off the corresponding part of the e46 pedal bracket (the thing that sticks off and would snap onto e45 floor pan) and high strength epoxy the e30 part on the e46 accelerator pedal. Use the e46 bolt to secure front of pedal bracket to floor pan
Ginormous AGM battery in trunk
Exhaust:
Topspeed pro-1 headers
Modified E46 M3 section 1 (stock resonator replaced with AR20, pipes brought closer together, v-bands) to 2.25->3" Y-pipe from columbia river to mandrel bent 3" pipes to vibrant streetpower 1047 (sounds fantastic!)
OEM BMW SAP block off plate
Cooling:
Mishimoto aluminum E36 radiator
low temp fan switch (but honestly I jump it to run high all the time bc Texas)
Working AC (r134) with new E36 compressor, parallel flow condenser, new evaporator, e30/e36 spliced hoses - ice cold even in TX summer
E30 oil cooler with AN10 braided lines
Ebay oil cooler AN10 adapter
SPAL 30100400 (must cut off water pump nut)
Technica water pipe adapter (must be rethreaded to fit e30 brown temp sensor)
E30 brown temp sensor. Need to wrap a wire around it, secure it somehow (solder + cable tie) and ground other end for accurate reading
Just threw expansion tank in battery tray for now...need something nicer/actually bolted down. E30 M3 tank maybe?
Must use S54 overflow tank cap...it is higher pressure than e30 cap so you don't have evaporative losses
E36 upper rad hose
Z3 lower rad hose 11531401726
New aux fan
Steering:
E46 ZHP rebuilt steering rack
S54 PS pump
E36 M52 hoses
IE steering guibo
Tree house racing cab (Can't use stock, will hit headers)
Trans:
420G
Condor trans mounts
Garagistic trans brace extensions
UUC E46 M3 LTFW/clutch kit
E30 master
E36 325I slave
UUC braided clutch line
Topspeed pro-1 EURO E36 M3 shifter
E36 M3 automatic driveshaft with E30 csb
Suspension/etc:
Billy sports
IE3 springs
D-force LTW5 17x7.5
E36 M3 front hubs
E30 M3 rear hubs
Control arms/tie rods <4k miles
UUC swaybarbarian front and rear sway bars
motorsport hardware wheel studs/locks
Revshift diff studs/spacers
poly subframe bushings
poly trailing arm bushings
poly diff bushing
Rebuilt 3.73 LSD diff with 3 thicker Porsche clutches
Sparco front strut bar
Interior:
Period correct Recaros
black door cards...also have a full set of red ones
6sp ZHP weighted shift knob
JVC headunit - bluetooth, XM, etc
Replaced all speakers and tweeters with good quality Alpines
Mtech 2 wheel
Cluster rebuilt by bavarian engineering
Silver trim rings in cluster
odo gears replaced garagistic
rebuilt door lock cylinders
LED lighting
recovered Husco arm rest
Leather shift and e-brake boot
Recovered back seat (black cloth)
Tinted windows done right
all trunk carpeting still there
complete trunk tool kit
LED license plate lights (does throw error code but oh well)
Time delay module for interior lighting
USB 3.0 charger
Map light mirror
E46 vert floor mats
Working sport mode with integrated switch
Stainless steel pedal set
How long did it take?
Long
How much did it cost?
A LOT
I used an ebay S54 timing tool kit that was about 150$ I believe. Timing was actually not difficult at all, you just have to go slow and be careful
Here's a couple rebuild pics:
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