PS Pump Rebuild details

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  • Maluco
    R3V OG
    • Oct 2005
    • 6572

    #1

    PS Pump Rebuild details

    I submitted somewhat of a procedure on how to rebuild your PS Pump in the DIY section but it either never got reviewed, got reviewed and wasn't posted or whatever. Regardless here's some info for those who are interested. This is more to let everyone know how easy and inexpensive it is to rebuild than to buy new or used.... I show the kit's list price as 32.75. a New/remanufactured pump on the other hand lists $220.

    Note: both pumps on my 90 325is and 92 325i Cabrio were Vickers however I also show there was a ZF pump used on some E30s. This applies to Vickers. Based on the diagram I've seen of a ZF pump, the repair should be just as easy if not easier.

    There's hardly much to change: 6 O Rings, a small C Clamp and a retainer seal.


    Everything taken apart:


    you can see here where the 1 largest O Ring goes, the two next to largest go and 1 of the 3 small one goes (small hole next to 1 of the 4 bolt holes)


    the two remaining small O Rings go here at the fingertips (remove with small allen)


    flathead the old retainer seal out here and hammer in the new one with a 20 or 21mm socket.


    Pay attention to the orientation of things as you take the pump apart and as they say the rest is reverse. Rub some of that evaporating/melting whatever grease (I used that trans prep blue grease in the pic) on the parts that are metal to metal just to fit them back in easier and Voila... New PS Pump on the cheap and easy...
    Last edited by Maluco; 03-04-2007, 04:01 PM.
  • 87-325ic
    E30 Enthusiast
    • Apr 2006
    • 1198

    #2
    good job, i need to do this to mine. how hard is it to actually get the pump apart? anything special needed?

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    • Maluco
      R3V OG
      • Oct 2005
      • 6572

      #3
      Originally posted by 87-325ic
      good job, i need to do this to mine. how hard is it to actually get the pump apart? anything special needed?
      Getting the pump apart? Easy! 4 bolts and then you'll need to pop that little c-clamp off inside. I used that little tool you squeeze and it spreads open at the end (don't know the name of it). I could have just as easily done it with two little flatheads though so no special tools needed.

      Comment

      • etxxz
        R3VLimited
        • Feb 2006
        • 2085

        #4
        ^^ you talking about snap ring tool. depengine on useable space and curved needle nose pliers will work if they're thin enough...that's how i did my cv joints. question of the day is: Where do you get the rebuild kit/parts?
        No more e30s for me.
        88 black BMW OBDII 332is dedicated track [sold]
        88 BMW OBDII bronzit 332is [RIP 03/08]
        91 BMW 325i [sold]
        86 Corolla 'Ae86' HB 20v trd [sold]
        http://youtube.com/watch?v=pTj7Hn9v5Rs

        Comment

        • Maluco
          R3V OG
          • Oct 2005
          • 6572

          #5
          Originally posted by etxxz
          ^^ you talking about snap ring tool. depengine on useable space and curved needle nose pliers will work if they're thin enough...that's how i did my cv joints. question of the day is: Where do you get the rebuild kit/parts?
          BMW or I can get it as well. $30 plus shipping.

          Comment

          • Eliminator
            Advanced Member
            • Apr 2006
            • 199

            #6
            How do you know if it needs to be rebuilt? Just if it's leaking?

            When it's cold outside, my pump makes a lot of noise and it's difficult to steer at low speeds. It feels like manual steering. Once everything warms up it works just fine (yes the fluid level is OK). Would that be the pump or rack?

            Comment

            • e304me
              E30 Fanatic
              • Feb 2006
              • 1374

              #7
              the belt is probably just too loose

              Comment

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