I posted this on s14.net but I figured you guys might be interested as well since everyone loves a project :D
I purchased the Maxx Alpha N piggy back setup a few years ago on a group buy to get rid of the AFM and free up some much needed midrange torque. I built an intake to replace the factory airbox and AFM setup with a 4" intake and K&N filter cone but never got around to installing it.... well a group buy showed up for the CF or FG DTM replica airboxes at the beginning of this year so I decided if I'm going to do this, I might as well do it right ;)
I also picked up the Innovate XD16/LC-1 wideband O2 and guage. I'm still working on a mounting solutoin for this as I'm not happy with the current ash tray mount and I could not get the center vents out of the dash to mount it there.... so long story short I have an A pillar pod setup coming to see if I can cut it down to 1 guage and make it look decent. I want the gauge to be nearer my field of vision, but not look like ass when installed.
Below is a copy of my other post:
So I hope this post answers some questions about the airbox install that I wasn't able to find pictures of and some tips that may help speed up the install for the next person.
First we have the JedM3/ Performance Specialities airbox, I'm sure you've seen pictures of this before but it's my turn to "bore" you with them ;)
Overall very nice construction. Exposed carbon fiber on the top, painted black on the bottom. The vacuum ports are a little farther back towards the firewall then on other boxes I've seen. The flange area is nicely constructed, dead flat and the bolt holes are reinforced. Now the down side: The holes do not line up exactly and the one closest to the fire wall is too small. I had to enlongate all the holes in various directions to get the box to line up correctly and drill out and remove the reinforcement for the last mounting hole closest to the firewall (this is due to to the large shaft size of the base of the lasted threaded bolt.
Now we have the intake portion that mounts to the fire wall. Very nice piece with an included reinforcement for the air temp sensor (drilling location noted by the white spot)
and the reverse area inside:
The thing I didn't find covered is length of hose to cut for the vacuum hose. The front line off the ISV need to be cut and added too, the line from the rear can be simple lengthened. I'm sure there are different ways to do this, below is my solution:
Front ISV connection rough cut:
Rear connection:
and the test fit in place:
You will also note above the relocated dipstick tube. This was a challenge as it didn't want to bend/move by hand. Using a long philips screwdriver inserted in place of the dipstick, it was easy to rotate it towards the front of the engine bay and out of the way of the airbox. No bending was required of the tube, only to the mounting bracket itself.
The filter solution:
After seeing some pics of a fram filter modified to fit, I decided to go this route. Below is how I modified the fliter to fit tightly in the intake. Since the intake has a few angles, some extensive cutting was required to get the filter to fit inside and tight. The black duct tape is to direct air to the filter portion vs. going around the edge. Next step is to do the same to the K&N filter I picked up.
And lastly, the question of will a sparco bar fit.... seems to be hit and miss, but mine clears the box by about a 1/4"
Alpha N install went well and it fired right up after a big help from my friend Mike who installed the correct USB/Serial adapter driver (spent more time then I like with computers trying to find out why the Maxx program kept crashing my laptop when I would try to communicate with the piggyback).
Now it's off to the dyno to get it fine tuned :)
I purchased the Maxx Alpha N piggy back setup a few years ago on a group buy to get rid of the AFM and free up some much needed midrange torque. I built an intake to replace the factory airbox and AFM setup with a 4" intake and K&N filter cone but never got around to installing it.... well a group buy showed up for the CF or FG DTM replica airboxes at the beginning of this year so I decided if I'm going to do this, I might as well do it right ;)
I also picked up the Innovate XD16/LC-1 wideband O2 and guage. I'm still working on a mounting solutoin for this as I'm not happy with the current ash tray mount and I could not get the center vents out of the dash to mount it there.... so long story short I have an A pillar pod setup coming to see if I can cut it down to 1 guage and make it look decent. I want the gauge to be nearer my field of vision, but not look like ass when installed.
Below is a copy of my other post:
So I hope this post answers some questions about the airbox install that I wasn't able to find pictures of and some tips that may help speed up the install for the next person.
First we have the JedM3/ Performance Specialities airbox, I'm sure you've seen pictures of this before but it's my turn to "bore" you with them ;)
Overall very nice construction. Exposed carbon fiber on the top, painted black on the bottom. The vacuum ports are a little farther back towards the firewall then on other boxes I've seen. The flange area is nicely constructed, dead flat and the bolt holes are reinforced. Now the down side: The holes do not line up exactly and the one closest to the fire wall is too small. I had to enlongate all the holes in various directions to get the box to line up correctly and drill out and remove the reinforcement for the last mounting hole closest to the firewall (this is due to to the large shaft size of the base of the lasted threaded bolt.
Now we have the intake portion that mounts to the fire wall. Very nice piece with an included reinforcement for the air temp sensor (drilling location noted by the white spot)
and the reverse area inside:
The thing I didn't find covered is length of hose to cut for the vacuum hose. The front line off the ISV need to be cut and added too, the line from the rear can be simple lengthened. I'm sure there are different ways to do this, below is my solution:
Front ISV connection rough cut:
Rear connection:
and the test fit in place:
You will also note above the relocated dipstick tube. This was a challenge as it didn't want to bend/move by hand. Using a long philips screwdriver inserted in place of the dipstick, it was easy to rotate it towards the front of the engine bay and out of the way of the airbox. No bending was required of the tube, only to the mounting bracket itself.
The filter solution:
After seeing some pics of a fram filter modified to fit, I decided to go this route. Below is how I modified the fliter to fit tightly in the intake. Since the intake has a few angles, some extensive cutting was required to get the filter to fit inside and tight. The black duct tape is to direct air to the filter portion vs. going around the edge. Next step is to do the same to the K&N filter I picked up.
And lastly, the question of will a sparco bar fit.... seems to be hit and miss, but mine clears the box by about a 1/4"
Alpha N install went well and it fired right up after a big help from my friend Mike who installed the correct USB/Serial adapter driver (spent more time then I like with computers trying to find out why the Maxx program kept crashing my laptop when I would try to communicate with the piggyback).
Now it's off to the dyno to get it fine tuned :)
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