4000 rpms

[blueapplesoda]

Problem. My car would run fine all the way to 4k (WOT) then it feels like fuel just get cut, check engine light flashes and then it resumes throttle until it passes 4250 ish. Sometimes itll keep goin an the car would get intermittent throttling and fuel cutting. If i edge (part throttle) it pass 4500 rpms though, i can get it to redline, though the car sounds like its trying so hard.

I've changed the afm, and the ECU so far, made sure all the electrical connections were secure and i can't figure out. I tried to do the pedal test to see what it would say, but i can't get the CEL to flash.

I'm thinking its a TPS related problem, what would you say?

[xLibelle]

presactly

[euroshark]

I'm thinking its a TPS related problem, what would you say?

I'd say it's worth a look... If it happens only at WOT, it's probably all the TPS's fault.

[blueapplesoda]

K i changed the tps today, but i still can't get the pedal test to work. Changed the AFM again with another one, and i also changed the fuel pressure regulator. Nada. still making funny at 4k.

what else could it be?

[blueapplesoda]

Ok i changed (with parts known to work) the fuel pump, injectors, o2 sensor, afm again, took a look at the valvetrain and everything seems to be in good order....

This bucking and CEL flashing thing is getting annoying, and I forgot to mention its AUTO. Could the tranny cause all of these problems? (i doubt it, cause it feels more like a engine related problem....) I need another TPS and maybe a Crank Position Sensor.

What else could be wrong with this motor?

And is there another way in using the pedal test method or a scan device to read fault codes?

[blueapplesoda]

I just changed the crank position sensor....

The old one had a nick in it, it seems to have hit the toothed wheel. I swapped another one in, and then drove it. It bucked aroun 4500k and the car started dying. It rolled down the street around my friends house so i called him and and we pushed the car to his house. I went home got the spare cps that i had and started to replace the cps, and the new one i swapped in seems to also have been hit by the crank wheel.

So i put the new one in (#3) with a small washer and it doesnt hit no more, but the car is still buckin around like an asshat.

What could it be honestly? What other sensors/items are on an m20 that can affect drivability so much that it really would need replacing?

[nando]

if your CPS needs a spacer to not hit the toothed wheel, it's not going to run right. the toothed wheel is how the ECU times the engine so you need to figure out why it's hitting the sensor.