SOLD!
-> Update 10/7 - Forgot to add, that is not rust under the battery tray in those pics. I think it is just corrosion? Anyway it wiped off with a bit of elbow grease, but there are two (quartersized?) spots where it looks like it's starting to rust. I'll get a couple pics this weekend. Also I tightened up the bottom mount of the aux fan and that fixed the noise.
-> Update 7/18 - Bump for an update -> two good :) and one bad :(. The good ones are that it just passed emissions and that I seem to have fixed the vibration. Was able to re-preload the center driveshaft bearing and wahlah! No more vibes!!!
Now the bad, which isn't so bad. The aux fan just started making noise the other day. Either the blades are hitting something or a mount is loose, it doesn't sound like the motor is bad. Anyway I'm going to try to take a look at it in the next couple of days.
Hey guys, it’s come time to sell my e30. I bought it back in Sept of 07 and it’s been very reliable since I’ve owned it (minus the water pump going out :( ). The previous previous owner did the swap (i3uller on here). It’s been through a full season of auto-x and one HPDE and performed like a champ. I’m selling it because I bought a DD and want to build a dedicated track car. Since this is more set up for the street, I’m going to start with a roller and build it up. I’m asking $5,500 OBO. I'm willing to pull the Recaro to drop the price a bit. Not really looking for trades although I may entertain the idea of a shifter kart + cash. Located in Boise, ID
Below is the mod list.
188k on the chassis
~86k on the engine and tranny
’94 M50
Custom exhaust (2.5 inch piping, high-flow cat -> resonator -> borla xr-1)
318is radiator
IE front strut brace
IE stage 3 springs
Lightweight flywheel (unsure of brand)
Recaro SRD driver’s seat
Wedge Engineering low mount seat bracket
Leather shift and e-brake boot (Car Art Unlimited)
Custom shift linkage
E36 window switches
Team Dynamics Pro Race 2 wheels – 15x7
Falken Azenis RT-615 tires – 205/50
Elephant Motorsports brake backing plates
Custom brake ducts
Hawk HPS pads
New shift bushings
New OEM water pump (composite impeller)
Reman starter
Smiley ellips
Euro grills
Momo steering wheel (with 1” extension)
No power steering or A/C
13 button OBC
There were a several issues with the car once I bought it that I have fixed, and there’s also some stuff that still needs fixing and I’ll try to outline those as well.
I replaced all the shift bushings and (accidentally, but turned out well) moved the shifter back a little bit relative to the hole. It is centered, maybe a little to the left, but is towards the back of the hole. There is no issue getting it into 2nd or 4th, it does contact the console a little bit, as well as going into reverse, but there is no problem getting it into any gear. The shifts are very short and there is hardly any play. A little play from side to side but from what I’ve read that is very hard to get rid of.
The only problem now with the linkage is that due to moving the shifter back, I had to extend the shift rod. I don’t have access to a welder so I tapped both sides and put a threaded rod in it. The nuts can work themselves loose (only had to retighten once so far) and you won’t be able to get it into reverse. Welding the nuts should solve the problem.
The 88 radiator was taken out in favor of a 318is radiator because the expansion tank was just sitting in the engine bay, unattached to anything. Also I like the cleaner look of the integrated expansion tank. The coolant level was shorted so the check light isn’t on since there is no sender.
The exhaust was also a major piece of crap. There was no cat, it was VERY raspy and it went from 2.5” piping to a 2.25” muffler. Had it all redone at a shop with 2.5” all the way back. High flow cat -> resonator -> borla xr-1. It is still fairly loud but not raspy at all. The only thing that’s weird is there seems to be a rattle in the piping before the cat. This is usually only heard around 1.5-2K or so or when you tap on the exhaust. Not sure if it’s just some clag from the weld or what. Also he made it a one-piece system so it is kind of a pain to take off.
Engine is still strong, there is an oil leak around this nut shown below, but I cannot figure out what I need to replace it as I don’t know what it is?? It looks to just be coming from the bolt so I think just a new crush washer should fix it. Tranny seems to be in good shape as well, except for a small leak from the drain plug. It was kind of stripped already when I changed the fluid but I didn’t have another bolt (and couldn’t wait for one) so it needs changed anyway as you can’t tighten it as much as it needs to be.
There was also some wiring issues with the aux fan but that is all sorted out and it turns on when the coolant temp reaches 88 degrees. There is still a wiring issue with the right turn signal, it has to be plugged in just right or the turn signal will not work. There seems to be a short in the light itself. Thus the parking lights on the right side don’t work if you want the turn signal to work.
Tires and brakes are good. I replaced the rotors and pads last summer, as well as bought the tires and wheels. The tires have less than 5K on them. The brakes and tires have maybe a 6 auto-x’s and one HPDE on them. Has a new front left hub and I don’t get any noises from the others. There does seem to be a slight vibration around 40 mph under throttle, but some days it will not be there and some days it will. I think the center bearing on the driveshaft wasn’t preloaded enough. If I get some time I will take a look.
Just recently the blower fan stopped working except for the high setting. I have no idea about this as I just found out last week. I only use it in the winter anyway. The sunroof motor seems a little weak too, sometimes it takes a couple tries to get it closed. But in the warm weather it usually works fine.
The paint is in okay condition. Needs a nice polish as you can see the finish is pretty hazy. There’s a dent in the hood and it looks like the clear is chipping off in some places. A couple dents at the bottom of the driver’s side door. The PO apparently shadowlined it with the trim still on the car and got some overspray onto the paint. It was not prepped very well and is chipping. I did the bumper tuck and painted the front bumper, surround, grills, and side moldings. I never got around to painting the rear bumper and surrounds. Everything is holding up well except the side moldings are starting to fade. I guess I didn’t prep the rubber enough. There’s a couple cracks in the paint on the top of the spoiler (look like swirls).
One license plate light is out and when you put a new one in it will blow the bulb. The third brake light is out right now (I’ll try to get a new one this week). When you roll up the passenger side window it will grind as it doesn’t think it is at the top. So you have to stop right as it gets to the top. The PO had vaders in it and when he installed them he just drilled through the floor. So there are 6 holes in the floor from the bolts that should be sealed up.
Oh yeah, probably the worst part is the rust under the battery tray. There is NO rust anywhere else that I have found. It looks like the taillight was leaking and water was sitting under the battery. I haven’t had the battery out but it looks like it is just surface rust. I took some pictures of underneath the battery and it hasn’t rusted all the way through. I can take some pics with the tray out if you want.
I think that is it. I know I have forgotten some things and will try to think of anything else and update this thread. Below are some pictures and you can click the link for all 108 pictures. Feel free to ask any questions or if you want another picture I will gladly get it for you.
Peter
Album: http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...view=slideshow
Oil leak
Had to cut for clearance for the brake ducts
Rust under battery tray
Not rusted through
Jerry-rigged shift linkage
-> Update 10/7 - Forgot to add, that is not rust under the battery tray in those pics. I think it is just corrosion? Anyway it wiped off with a bit of elbow grease, but there are two (quartersized?) spots where it looks like it's starting to rust. I'll get a couple pics this weekend. Also I tightened up the bottom mount of the aux fan and that fixed the noise.
-> Update 7/18 - Bump for an update -> two good :) and one bad :(. The good ones are that it just passed emissions and that I seem to have fixed the vibration. Was able to re-preload the center driveshaft bearing and wahlah! No more vibes!!!
Now the bad, which isn't so bad. The aux fan just started making noise the other day. Either the blades are hitting something or a mount is loose, it doesn't sound like the motor is bad. Anyway I'm going to try to take a look at it in the next couple of days.
Hey guys, it’s come time to sell my e30. I bought it back in Sept of 07 and it’s been very reliable since I’ve owned it (minus the water pump going out :( ). The previous previous owner did the swap (i3uller on here). It’s been through a full season of auto-x and one HPDE and performed like a champ. I’m selling it because I bought a DD and want to build a dedicated track car. Since this is more set up for the street, I’m going to start with a roller and build it up. I’m asking $5,500 OBO. I'm willing to pull the Recaro to drop the price a bit. Not really looking for trades although I may entertain the idea of a shifter kart + cash. Located in Boise, ID
Below is the mod list.
188k on the chassis
~86k on the engine and tranny
’94 M50
Custom exhaust (2.5 inch piping, high-flow cat -> resonator -> borla xr-1)
318is radiator
IE front strut brace
IE stage 3 springs
Lightweight flywheel (unsure of brand)
Recaro SRD driver’s seat
Wedge Engineering low mount seat bracket
Leather shift and e-brake boot (Car Art Unlimited)
Custom shift linkage
E36 window switches
Team Dynamics Pro Race 2 wheels – 15x7
Falken Azenis RT-615 tires – 205/50
Elephant Motorsports brake backing plates
Custom brake ducts
Hawk HPS pads
New shift bushings
New OEM water pump (composite impeller)
Reman starter
Smiley ellips
Euro grills
Momo steering wheel (with 1” extension)
No power steering or A/C
13 button OBC
There were a several issues with the car once I bought it that I have fixed, and there’s also some stuff that still needs fixing and I’ll try to outline those as well.
I replaced all the shift bushings and (accidentally, but turned out well) moved the shifter back a little bit relative to the hole. It is centered, maybe a little to the left, but is towards the back of the hole. There is no issue getting it into 2nd or 4th, it does contact the console a little bit, as well as going into reverse, but there is no problem getting it into any gear. The shifts are very short and there is hardly any play. A little play from side to side but from what I’ve read that is very hard to get rid of.
The only problem now with the linkage is that due to moving the shifter back, I had to extend the shift rod. I don’t have access to a welder so I tapped both sides and put a threaded rod in it. The nuts can work themselves loose (only had to retighten once so far) and you won’t be able to get it into reverse. Welding the nuts should solve the problem.
The 88 radiator was taken out in favor of a 318is radiator because the expansion tank was just sitting in the engine bay, unattached to anything. Also I like the cleaner look of the integrated expansion tank. The coolant level was shorted so the check light isn’t on since there is no sender.
The exhaust was also a major piece of crap. There was no cat, it was VERY raspy and it went from 2.5” piping to a 2.25” muffler. Had it all redone at a shop with 2.5” all the way back. High flow cat -> resonator -> borla xr-1. It is still fairly loud but not raspy at all. The only thing that’s weird is there seems to be a rattle in the piping before the cat. This is usually only heard around 1.5-2K or so or when you tap on the exhaust. Not sure if it’s just some clag from the weld or what. Also he made it a one-piece system so it is kind of a pain to take off.
Engine is still strong, there is an oil leak around this nut shown below, but I cannot figure out what I need to replace it as I don’t know what it is?? It looks to just be coming from the bolt so I think just a new crush washer should fix it. Tranny seems to be in good shape as well, except for a small leak from the drain plug. It was kind of stripped already when I changed the fluid but I didn’t have another bolt (and couldn’t wait for one) so it needs changed anyway as you can’t tighten it as much as it needs to be.
There was also some wiring issues with the aux fan but that is all sorted out and it turns on when the coolant temp reaches 88 degrees. There is still a wiring issue with the right turn signal, it has to be plugged in just right or the turn signal will not work. There seems to be a short in the light itself. Thus the parking lights on the right side don’t work if you want the turn signal to work.
Tires and brakes are good. I replaced the rotors and pads last summer, as well as bought the tires and wheels. The tires have less than 5K on them. The brakes and tires have maybe a 6 auto-x’s and one HPDE on them. Has a new front left hub and I don’t get any noises from the others. There does seem to be a slight vibration around 40 mph under throttle, but some days it will not be there and some days it will. I think the center bearing on the driveshaft wasn’t preloaded enough. If I get some time I will take a look.
Just recently the blower fan stopped working except for the high setting. I have no idea about this as I just found out last week. I only use it in the winter anyway. The sunroof motor seems a little weak too, sometimes it takes a couple tries to get it closed. But in the warm weather it usually works fine.
The paint is in okay condition. Needs a nice polish as you can see the finish is pretty hazy. There’s a dent in the hood and it looks like the clear is chipping off in some places. A couple dents at the bottom of the driver’s side door. The PO apparently shadowlined it with the trim still on the car and got some overspray onto the paint. It was not prepped very well and is chipping. I did the bumper tuck and painted the front bumper, surround, grills, and side moldings. I never got around to painting the rear bumper and surrounds. Everything is holding up well except the side moldings are starting to fade. I guess I didn’t prep the rubber enough. There’s a couple cracks in the paint on the top of the spoiler (look like swirls).
One license plate light is out and when you put a new one in it will blow the bulb. The third brake light is out right now (I’ll try to get a new one this week). When you roll up the passenger side window it will grind as it doesn’t think it is at the top. So you have to stop right as it gets to the top. The PO had vaders in it and when he installed them he just drilled through the floor. So there are 6 holes in the floor from the bolts that should be sealed up.
Oh yeah, probably the worst part is the rust under the battery tray. There is NO rust anywhere else that I have found. It looks like the taillight was leaking and water was sitting under the battery. I haven’t had the battery out but it looks like it is just surface rust. I took some pictures of underneath the battery and it hasn’t rusted all the way through. I can take some pics with the tray out if you want.
I think that is it. I know I have forgotten some things and will try to think of anything else and update this thread. Below are some pictures and you can click the link for all 108 pictures. Feel free to ask any questions or if you want another picture I will gladly get it for you.
Peter
Album: http://s224.photobucket.com/albums/d...view=slideshow
Oil leak
Had to cut for clearance for the brake ducts
Rust under battery tray
Not rusted through
Jerry-rigged shift linkage
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