Warning: lots of info, waste your time at your own risk.
Backstory of why I'm selling it:
Alright so I originally bought this car back in March(ish) 2009 with no plans to "mod" it. Well we all know how that goes. I got it because it was practical and built well. It has some flaws when I got it, the cats were bad and the suspension was on the way out but it was a "diamond in the rough" kinda deal. (Plus the insurance payout from my last car easily covered it)
Now I have two car's this is not daily driven anymore, and no longer is required to be practical so I'd much rather start trying to get into an M coupe like I've always wanted to do.
Enough back story... onto details
Car: 1997 Black 328i with Black Interior, M52B28 5-speed. Current motor as 207xxx, but I have another motor that is going with it, see below.
Location: Norfolk, VA
Car is currently on jack stands with the wheels off for refurbishment. Should be back to good running order in a month or so, hence the feeler thread.
The Goods:
Interior:
Viper 5701 2-way alarm (keyless, remote start, remote trunk pop, auto closes windows/sunroof on lock)
ZHP shift knob
Euro M3 trispoke wheel w/ SWC retrofit (one-off)
E38/9 slipring for SWC retrofit
Bluetooth integration
Heated seats
35% tint all around w/ 5 inch 5% windsheild strip
3-button homelink (under armrest)
Black headliner accessories (uninstalled, visors, Oh-sh*t handles etc.)
New cabin filter (uninstalled)
Leather 8/10
Rear folding seats (sorta, see stereo photos)
Motor/Drivetrain:
Brand New installed Mishimoto Raditor
New upper/lower hoses
Fan Delete kit
De-baffled OEM air box
3.23LSD M3 diff
Recently replaced OEM diff bushings
Fresh oil change w/ filter ~5000 miles (Brad Penn 20w50)
Rogue SSK
Supersprint BMP design Cat-back exhaust
Replaced Cats when I got the car (~176k miles)
Sach's clutch w/ ~30k
Brake overhaul ~1yr old (UUC SS lines, UUC front slotted rotors, UUC solid rears, Akebono ceramic pads, Mobel 600 DOT4 fluid, fresh brake wear sensors, drum pads were still good)
Metal impellor water pump
Spare M52B26 long block w/ ~100K miles (no accessories, waiting to swap, aluminum therm housing w/ engine stand)
M50 intake manifold (uninstalled)
M3 RTA's (unistalled)
M3 rear axles (uninstalled, one stuck in M3 RTA)
2.93 open diff (old one, w/ M3 output flanges from LSD, uninstalled)
Recent VCG
Recent oil filter housing to block gasket
Recent spark plugs
Recent fuel filter
Recent coolant overflow tank
Suspension/steering:
Powerflex FCAB
Powerflex RTAB
BC coilovers (6K/8K F/R) (less than 500 miles)
BC front camber plates
New front sway links (M3 style)
Rear strut adjustment extenders (uninstalled)
M3 rear sway
Ground control rear camber arms
Rogue RSM's
OEM x-brace
New tie rods (< 500 miles)
Front strut tower reinforcement plates
Extra set of BC RSM's (never installed, brand new)
Bimmerworld jacking plate
Lighting:
ZKW ellipsoids (clean glass)
55W raptor HID 5k low beams
French OEM fog lights (freshly resprayed INSIDE of lense w/ Krylon)
35W slim DDM kit 3K
Smoked Corners
Smoked rears
Smoked side markers
Stealth bulbs all around
Stereo:
Alpine IDA-X305 HU
JL Audio C5 6.5 Components (front)
JL Audio VR 3-way 6x9's (rear)
JL Audio 12W6 v1 Sub
JL Audio Line output driver/bass knob
JL Audio 2-way & 4-way Premium RCA cables
JL Audio Slash 500/1v2
JL Audio Slash 300/4v2
Custom box/trunk install
Stinger 5Farad Cap
Redtop Optima
120amp Bosch Alternator
0g wire from battery to cap
4g wire from cap to each amp
14g wire to each interior speaker from amp
Working Steering wheel controls (e46 retrofit)
Alpine KCA-400BT (Bluetooth w/ music streaming capable)
IPod integration
Dynamat out the WAZOO (full trunk cover, trunk lid, rear deck, front doors, rear driver door (never got to pull the rear pass apart to install still have a spare sheet I'll throw in with the car))
Exterior:
ACS front lip (auth)
ACS non-M rear diffuser (auth, RARE in US)
ACS SEDAN roof spoiler (auth, RARE in US)
M3 door strips
BMW Motorsport international badges
Custom cut front bumper grill
Circuit motorsports Underpanel (custom fit)
Paint 8.5/10 (mostly original, see the "Not so good" section)
Fresh front door handle gaskets
Black grilles
Kamei eyelids (Painted, uninstalled, all original pieces incl.)
Pulled/rolled front and rear fenders
All door dings/dents professional removed (NOT FILLED)
Personally Undercoated from when I worked at the dealership I was at
Wheels/Tires:
RARE O.Z. Mito Type III (reverse mount faces) 17x8.5 ~et17 17x9.5 ~et12
Brand new Falken 452's 205/40 235/40 tires (<100 miles on them currently)
BMW "security" lug bolt set
The Not so Goods:
-PO said rears were 10's so I ordered tires to stretch a 10, turns out they are 9.5's so the 235's are kinda meaty for the E36 application, 215/45's would stretch well and get the rear lower to where it needs to be (215/45 is tire in prewheel refinish photo)
-Car was rear-ended a while back, low-speed, scuffed up the bumper, no real damage, replaced with BMW original parts and resprayed at professional shop
-Was backed in against some bushes at work and a company was coming to trim them down, apparently they didn’t feel the need to notify anyone parked against them and scratched the hell out of everyone's car, long story short: rear quarters and trunk were resprayed at professional shop by insurance
-Current m52 leaks from oil pan gasket, hence heavy oil & the fresh motor
-While fitting the 6.5 speakers in the kick panels I ended up trimming the sheet metal back too far so the hood realease lever wouldn’t fit/broke. I ended up disconnecting it and have the release cable sitting behind the door gasket, I open it with a pair of needle nose, I had plans to install an electric popper (its sitting in the garage), also have a brand new cable in case it needs to be replaced ever.
-While rolling the front passenger fender ended up cracking the paint (~4 inch section) had a buddy that does touch up painting for the dealership I used to work at cover the exposed metal the next day (if you don’t know it's there you wouldn't see it small)
-300/4 amp has alternator noise originating in the amp, when I original purchased this it had the same problem and I sent it back for resolution, turned up a few months ago again and just haven’t shipped it off to have it fixed again (~175-200 to fix at JL shop, I've just been lazy and unplugged the rears)
-ACS diffuser and roof spoiler need to be buffed, have small dust spots from pollen when buddy painted them (will have done when wheels are back on the car)
-Some blemished on the side skirts
-Small touch up paint patch on front pass. door panel from PO
-Driver seat back bolster has seam coming apart, I don’t notice it since when I'm out of the car the seat belt covers it, and sitting in the car its behind you
-Bluetooth mic could be moved for better clarity
-Electrical "gremlin" for Sub, it will stop playing every once in a while, I've found that I flick the fogs on and it "magically" kicks back on (sometimes requires a few flicks)… havent been able to figure this out
-Car has 207xxx miles on it
-PO hit something on the spare tire well and dented it pretty bad, no function issue
-Stereo does not allow for spare tire to be carried
-Alarm 2-way fob went bad on me, currently using the 1-way fob. New 2-way fob is ~100 bucks and takes a few seconds to program
-Normal rock chips/misc stuff on front end from age/milage
-Front bumper was Scuffed from PO that I never fixed (just has touch up over it)
-Curbed the ACS front lip after it was professionally painted, has touch-up over it
Misc:
-Bypassed the clutch switch for the remote start, so it’s a bad idea to park "in-gear". I never have in any of my cars. There is a toggle switch cut out if you want to disable the remote start under the dash.
-Alarm ALWAYS closes windows so if you are a "parked window cracker" you will have to unlink the AUX 1 channel from the lock function.
-Have a ORIGINAL BBS front lip coming from Germany, is currently in transit. It is one of TWO I have seen ever on any forum.
-Has been garage kept for the majority of the time I've owned it (Early 2009)
-Stopped being daily driven ~ May 2011
Photos:
Most recent:
(crappy cells, forgot to grab my camera before I ran out)
pre-wheel refurb
Older photo threads:
PRICE:
I'm thinking of 9000 with everything included... I know its high for a high milage 328, but all the parts that are going with it are worth it. I'm in no rush to sell, and this is no where near what all I put into it. I'm not to interested in keeping any of it but we can negotiate removing parts for a lower price.
A couple locals to me can vouch for the cleaness of my car and how I take care of it. All the car really needs is a few small details and some motor work.
I can take pictures of anything you want to see details of.
PM questions/comments/criticism
Backstory of why I'm selling it:
Alright so I originally bought this car back in March(ish) 2009 with no plans to "mod" it. Well we all know how that goes. I got it because it was practical and built well. It has some flaws when I got it, the cats were bad and the suspension was on the way out but it was a "diamond in the rough" kinda deal. (Plus the insurance payout from my last car easily covered it)
Now I have two car's this is not daily driven anymore, and no longer is required to be practical so I'd much rather start trying to get into an M coupe like I've always wanted to do.
Enough back story... onto details
Car: 1997 Black 328i with Black Interior, M52B28 5-speed. Current motor as 207xxx, but I have another motor that is going with it, see below.
Location: Norfolk, VA
Car is currently on jack stands with the wheels off for refurbishment. Should be back to good running order in a month or so, hence the feeler thread.
The Goods:
Interior:
Viper 5701 2-way alarm (keyless, remote start, remote trunk pop, auto closes windows/sunroof on lock)
ZHP shift knob
Euro M3 trispoke wheel w/ SWC retrofit (one-off)
E38/9 slipring for SWC retrofit
Bluetooth integration
Heated seats
35% tint all around w/ 5 inch 5% windsheild strip
3-button homelink (under armrest)
Black headliner accessories (uninstalled, visors, Oh-sh*t handles etc.)
New cabin filter (uninstalled)
Leather 8/10
Rear folding seats (sorta, see stereo photos)
Motor/Drivetrain:
Brand New installed Mishimoto Raditor
New upper/lower hoses
Fan Delete kit
De-baffled OEM air box
3.23LSD M3 diff
Recently replaced OEM diff bushings
Fresh oil change w/ filter ~5000 miles (Brad Penn 20w50)
Rogue SSK
Supersprint BMP design Cat-back exhaust
Replaced Cats when I got the car (~176k miles)
Sach's clutch w/ ~30k
Brake overhaul ~1yr old (UUC SS lines, UUC front slotted rotors, UUC solid rears, Akebono ceramic pads, Mobel 600 DOT4 fluid, fresh brake wear sensors, drum pads were still good)
Metal impellor water pump
Spare M52B26 long block w/ ~100K miles (no accessories, waiting to swap, aluminum therm housing w/ engine stand)
M50 intake manifold (uninstalled)
M3 RTA's (unistalled)
M3 rear axles (uninstalled, one stuck in M3 RTA)
2.93 open diff (old one, w/ M3 output flanges from LSD, uninstalled)
Recent VCG
Recent oil filter housing to block gasket
Recent spark plugs
Recent fuel filter
Recent coolant overflow tank
Suspension/steering:
Powerflex FCAB
Powerflex RTAB
BC coilovers (6K/8K F/R) (less than 500 miles)
BC front camber plates
New front sway links (M3 style)
Rear strut adjustment extenders (uninstalled)
M3 rear sway
Ground control rear camber arms
Rogue RSM's
OEM x-brace
New tie rods (< 500 miles)
Front strut tower reinforcement plates
Extra set of BC RSM's (never installed, brand new)
Bimmerworld jacking plate
Lighting:
ZKW ellipsoids (clean glass)
55W raptor HID 5k low beams
French OEM fog lights (freshly resprayed INSIDE of lense w/ Krylon)
35W slim DDM kit 3K
Smoked Corners
Smoked rears
Smoked side markers
Stealth bulbs all around
Stereo:
Alpine IDA-X305 HU
JL Audio C5 6.5 Components (front)
JL Audio VR 3-way 6x9's (rear)
JL Audio 12W6 v1 Sub
JL Audio Line output driver/bass knob
JL Audio 2-way & 4-way Premium RCA cables
JL Audio Slash 500/1v2
JL Audio Slash 300/4v2
Custom box/trunk install
Stinger 5Farad Cap
Redtop Optima
120amp Bosch Alternator
0g wire from battery to cap
4g wire from cap to each amp
14g wire to each interior speaker from amp
Working Steering wheel controls (e46 retrofit)
Alpine KCA-400BT (Bluetooth w/ music streaming capable)
IPod integration
Dynamat out the WAZOO (full trunk cover, trunk lid, rear deck, front doors, rear driver door (never got to pull the rear pass apart to install still have a spare sheet I'll throw in with the car))
Exterior:
ACS front lip (auth)
ACS non-M rear diffuser (auth, RARE in US)
ACS SEDAN roof spoiler (auth, RARE in US)
M3 door strips
BMW Motorsport international badges
Custom cut front bumper grill
Circuit motorsports Underpanel (custom fit)
Paint 8.5/10 (mostly original, see the "Not so good" section)
Fresh front door handle gaskets
Black grilles
Kamei eyelids (Painted, uninstalled, all original pieces incl.)
Pulled/rolled front and rear fenders
All door dings/dents professional removed (NOT FILLED)
Personally Undercoated from when I worked at the dealership I was at
Wheels/Tires:
RARE O.Z. Mito Type III (reverse mount faces) 17x8.5 ~et17 17x9.5 ~et12
Brand new Falken 452's 205/40 235/40 tires (<100 miles on them currently)
BMW "security" lug bolt set
The Not so Goods:
-PO said rears were 10's so I ordered tires to stretch a 10, turns out they are 9.5's so the 235's are kinda meaty for the E36 application, 215/45's would stretch well and get the rear lower to where it needs to be (215/45 is tire in prewheel refinish photo)
-Car was rear-ended a while back, low-speed, scuffed up the bumper, no real damage, replaced with BMW original parts and resprayed at professional shop
-Was backed in against some bushes at work and a company was coming to trim them down, apparently they didn’t feel the need to notify anyone parked against them and scratched the hell out of everyone's car, long story short: rear quarters and trunk were resprayed at professional shop by insurance
-Current m52 leaks from oil pan gasket, hence heavy oil & the fresh motor
-While fitting the 6.5 speakers in the kick panels I ended up trimming the sheet metal back too far so the hood realease lever wouldn’t fit/broke. I ended up disconnecting it and have the release cable sitting behind the door gasket, I open it with a pair of needle nose, I had plans to install an electric popper (its sitting in the garage), also have a brand new cable in case it needs to be replaced ever.
-While rolling the front passenger fender ended up cracking the paint (~4 inch section) had a buddy that does touch up painting for the dealership I used to work at cover the exposed metal the next day (if you don’t know it's there you wouldn't see it small)
-300/4 amp has alternator noise originating in the amp, when I original purchased this it had the same problem and I sent it back for resolution, turned up a few months ago again and just haven’t shipped it off to have it fixed again (~175-200 to fix at JL shop, I've just been lazy and unplugged the rears)
-ACS diffuser and roof spoiler need to be buffed, have small dust spots from pollen when buddy painted them (will have done when wheels are back on the car)
-Some blemished on the side skirts
-Small touch up paint patch on front pass. door panel from PO
-Driver seat back bolster has seam coming apart, I don’t notice it since when I'm out of the car the seat belt covers it, and sitting in the car its behind you
-Bluetooth mic could be moved for better clarity
-Electrical "gremlin" for Sub, it will stop playing every once in a while, I've found that I flick the fogs on and it "magically" kicks back on (sometimes requires a few flicks)… havent been able to figure this out
-Car has 207xxx miles on it
-PO hit something on the spare tire well and dented it pretty bad, no function issue
-Stereo does not allow for spare tire to be carried
-Alarm 2-way fob went bad on me, currently using the 1-way fob. New 2-way fob is ~100 bucks and takes a few seconds to program
-Normal rock chips/misc stuff on front end from age/milage
-Front bumper was Scuffed from PO that I never fixed (just has touch up over it)
-Curbed the ACS front lip after it was professionally painted, has touch-up over it
Misc:
-Bypassed the clutch switch for the remote start, so it’s a bad idea to park "in-gear". I never have in any of my cars. There is a toggle switch cut out if you want to disable the remote start under the dash.
-Alarm ALWAYS closes windows so if you are a "parked window cracker" you will have to unlink the AUX 1 channel from the lock function.
-Have a ORIGINAL BBS front lip coming from Germany, is currently in transit. It is one of TWO I have seen ever on any forum.
-Has been garage kept for the majority of the time I've owned it (Early 2009)
-Stopped being daily driven ~ May 2011
Photos:
Most recent:
(crappy cells, forgot to grab my camera before I ran out)
pre-wheel refurb
Older photo threads:
PRICE:
I'm thinking of 9000 with everything included... I know its high for a high milage 328, but all the parts that are going with it are worth it. I'm in no rush to sell, and this is no where near what all I put into it. I'm not to interested in keeping any of it but we can negotiate removing parts for a lower price.
A couple locals to me can vouch for the cleaness of my car and how I take care of it. All the car really needs is a few small details and some motor work.
I can take pictures of anything you want to see details of.
PM questions/comments/criticism
Comment