Up for sale is my 1987 325is. I have owned this car since early 2012 and daily driving it for the past two years. During that time, almost all major wear items have been inspected and replaced. Almost everything that could have failed at this point in its life has already been addressed. For someone looking for a solid platform for a build or just looking to continue to daily the car, this would be a great candidate. Most of the heavy lifting has been done already. The car just needs odds and ends looked at as well as a paint job. Mechanically, the car is extremely solid. I’ll go ahead and list everything that has been done below.
Engine (all within the last 25k):
Timing Belt
Tensioner
Water Pump
Distributor/Rotor
Injectors (stock 14#)
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Radiator and Hoses
Fan Clutch
Thermostat
DME/Fuel Pump Relays
Valve Adjustment (last performed 2k ago)
Valve Cover Gasket
All serpentine belts
Coolant Reservoir
Motor Mounts (OEM)
Transmission (within last 20k)
New Sachs Clutch
Throw-Out Bearing
Trans Mounts (OEM)
Shift-Linkage Bushings (No slop in the shifter)
Z3 1.9 “Short Shifter”
Brakes (within last 20k):
Rotors (all four corners)
Hawk HPS Pads (all four corners)
New Re-manufactured Front Calipers
Rebuilt Rear calipers (dissembled, replaced seals, cleaned/lubed)
New OEM Master Cylinder (3k ago)
Brake Booster (10k ago, off of a 100k mile e30)
SS Braided lines (all six replaced)
Entire rear hard line replaced (from Master cylinder back to junction above diff and to each caliper)
E-Brake Cables Replaced (3k ago, parking brake re-adjusted)
Suspension (within last 20k)
Koni Adjustables (all four corners)
Ireland Engineering Stage 3 Springs (all four corners)
New OEM strut mounts (all four corners)
OEM Front Control Arms
OEM Sway Bar End Links
OEM E30 M3 Solid Offset CABs
Tie-Rods (Inner and Outer)
Entire Rear Sub-frame replaced with a lower mileage unit
Revshift Poly Sub-frame Bushings
Turner Motorsport Poly RTABs
OEM Rear Wheel Bearings
Fuel:
Brand new gas tank (3k ago)
Fuel Pumps (In-tank unit is a Bosch 255LPH, high-pressure external unit is a new Bosch OEM unit, was planning on converting to only a single in-tank pump, but tried using both high-pressure pumps in series as a test, has been extremely reliable for last 25k miles ago so both are still in place) Theoretically, you should be able to take out the external unit and still run perfect.
New Bosch fuel filter
All new OEM high-pressure fuel hose (around gas tank and filter)
New OEM tank-Evap lines
New OEM gas tank filler hose
Exhaust:
Completely custom exhaust (resonator and muffler in place). Quiet during regular driving and only gets loud at WOT.
New OEM gaskets at connection to exhaust manifolds)
The Good:
In addition to all replaced items as listed above, all electronics still work on the car (sunroof can be finicky, but always opens and closes). Headlights replaced with projector units off a ’91 318is and installed with 5k HIDs. Two of the four component speakers have been replaced. Stereo works well. Interior is fairly decent for its age. No tears in seating but they are broken in for sure. Everything works on cluster (odo gears replaced with Garagistic ones, mileage should be fairly close as gears were replaced a few months after odometer stopped working. Car runs and drives very well, solid idle, no over-heating (even in traffic). I average about 22-23mpg. Consumes about a quart of oil between changes (roughly every 3k miles).
The Bad:
The paint is the worst part about this car. All horizontal surfaces have clear-coat peeling. Vertical surfaces are much better, but far from perfect. Drivers door has several dings in it. Rust spot on the rear drive side rear quarter panel, and sun-roof. And some rust near the rocker panels. To really make this car shine, it would need a paint-job and the rust areas taken care of. Driveshaft has also recently begun vibrating in 2nd gear under heavy acceleration. Most likely either the CSB on its way out, or the U-joints are starting to freeze up. Don’t notice it during normal driving, but accelerating quickly in 2nd will bring it up.
I will likely be keeping the TRM C1s for the next project as well as the rack. I have a set of bottlecaps with roughly 80% tread life I can throw on. If you have any questions or would like more pictures of anything, feel free to contact me. Asking $3800.
Thanks,
Sean
Engine (all within the last 25k):
Timing Belt
Tensioner
Water Pump
Distributor/Rotor
Injectors (stock 14#)
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Radiator and Hoses
Fan Clutch
Thermostat
DME/Fuel Pump Relays
Valve Adjustment (last performed 2k ago)
Valve Cover Gasket
All serpentine belts
Coolant Reservoir
Motor Mounts (OEM)
Transmission (within last 20k)
New Sachs Clutch
Throw-Out Bearing
Trans Mounts (OEM)
Shift-Linkage Bushings (No slop in the shifter)
Z3 1.9 “Short Shifter”
Brakes (within last 20k):
Rotors (all four corners)
Hawk HPS Pads (all four corners)
New Re-manufactured Front Calipers
Rebuilt Rear calipers (dissembled, replaced seals, cleaned/lubed)
New OEM Master Cylinder (3k ago)
Brake Booster (10k ago, off of a 100k mile e30)
SS Braided lines (all six replaced)
Entire rear hard line replaced (from Master cylinder back to junction above diff and to each caliper)
E-Brake Cables Replaced (3k ago, parking brake re-adjusted)
Suspension (within last 20k)
Koni Adjustables (all four corners)
Ireland Engineering Stage 3 Springs (all four corners)
New OEM strut mounts (all four corners)
OEM Front Control Arms
OEM Sway Bar End Links
OEM E30 M3 Solid Offset CABs
Tie-Rods (Inner and Outer)
Entire Rear Sub-frame replaced with a lower mileage unit
Revshift Poly Sub-frame Bushings
Turner Motorsport Poly RTABs
OEM Rear Wheel Bearings
Fuel:
Brand new gas tank (3k ago)
Fuel Pumps (In-tank unit is a Bosch 255LPH, high-pressure external unit is a new Bosch OEM unit, was planning on converting to only a single in-tank pump, but tried using both high-pressure pumps in series as a test, has been extremely reliable for last 25k miles ago so both are still in place) Theoretically, you should be able to take out the external unit and still run perfect.
New Bosch fuel filter
All new OEM high-pressure fuel hose (around gas tank and filter)
New OEM tank-Evap lines
New OEM gas tank filler hose
Exhaust:
Completely custom exhaust (resonator and muffler in place). Quiet during regular driving and only gets loud at WOT.
New OEM gaskets at connection to exhaust manifolds)
The Good:
In addition to all replaced items as listed above, all electronics still work on the car (sunroof can be finicky, but always opens and closes). Headlights replaced with projector units off a ’91 318is and installed with 5k HIDs. Two of the four component speakers have been replaced. Stereo works well. Interior is fairly decent for its age. No tears in seating but they are broken in for sure. Everything works on cluster (odo gears replaced with Garagistic ones, mileage should be fairly close as gears were replaced a few months after odometer stopped working. Car runs and drives very well, solid idle, no over-heating (even in traffic). I average about 22-23mpg. Consumes about a quart of oil between changes (roughly every 3k miles).
The Bad:
The paint is the worst part about this car. All horizontal surfaces have clear-coat peeling. Vertical surfaces are much better, but far from perfect. Drivers door has several dings in it. Rust spot on the rear drive side rear quarter panel, and sun-roof. And some rust near the rocker panels. To really make this car shine, it would need a paint-job and the rust areas taken care of. Driveshaft has also recently begun vibrating in 2nd gear under heavy acceleration. Most likely either the CSB on its way out, or the U-joints are starting to freeze up. Don’t notice it during normal driving, but accelerating quickly in 2nd will bring it up.
I will likely be keeping the TRM C1s for the next project as well as the rack. I have a set of bottlecaps with roughly 80% tread life I can throw on. If you have any questions or would like more pictures of anything, feel free to contact me. Asking $3800.
Thanks,
Sean
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