Hey guys,
So I got a freshly rebuilt M20B25/-B27 that I wanted to see what interest there might be if I decide to post it for sale. I’ve basically built this engine for my daily driver and designed it with the idea of using an electro-clutched supercharger. My goal was to operate the SC on-demand. In other words, run the engine normally aspirated for long highway cruise speeds, when in low power demand operation, and when the party poopers (aka CHP) chumps are around, and then hit the switch to engage the SC when I wanted a little more kick at the track or light. Then about a month ago, my buddy’s kid brother rolls his e39 540i trying to drift around a curve and now I have an excellent M62B44 to transplant into my DD. I guess the kid’s bad luck is my good fortune. So, now I have this engine that’s 100% completed and in excellent running condition with about 4,300 miles sporting a fresh rebuild that needs an engine bay to move into. That’s why I’m here.
Now to what’s in it for the new “home” provider. The list of work and parts include:
Head
We all know that the real business end of an engine is the head. The buck stops here as they say. In light of that fact, my hard earned bucks stopped and parked themselves into, on, and around the head quite a bit. I never thought a hallow block of cast aluminum could cost so much to bring to near perfection. The 885 head I used went through some serious planning and carefully detailed work to ensure a strong and health life given my planned and purposed duty use. Due to the tendency of these heads to crack between the 4th & 5th cam journal, both on the intake and exhaust side, I had custom welding done to reinforce the factory “weak” areas. I’ve had a head crack on me before, so I didn’t want to invest the equivalent of a Pacific islander’s retirement fund into this head, and not be assured some long years of reliable service. So I found a relatively low mileage head and went about putting it on a steroid diet. The question if the weld negatively affected the head at all is valid. But I will say this; I’ve run the head now for nearly 5k miles, and in the way and manner the Bavarian gods intended, and it’s held beautifully. In addition to the welding, I’ve had the head:
-Pressure checked
-Ported and polished intake & exhaust ports
-Fitted with VAC adjustable cam gear
-Fitted with a Schrick 284 camshaft
-Fitted with Ireland Engineering HD Rockers
-Fitted with concentric cut valves for better fuel atomization. I lapped the valves with a fine compound for better seating.
-Fitted with new valve guides & seals
-Installed new stock springs with 2.5mm shim under the valve springs seat to increase spring pressure in order to help prevent valve float.
-Secured with heavy duty allen head bolts torqued down to 68 lb-ft (bolt tensile strength is higher than APR studs).
-Seated on a modified Victor Reinz head gasket to allow high water flow through #5 cylinder water jacket port for better heat transfer.
-Fitted with new NGK plugs
Block
This block is pretty much a stock block. Relatively low miles (~180k) off of an eta frame. The factory hone hatch pattern was still very visible. I opted not to get too involved with the block. The head really ate a big hole in my budget. But I did invest some effort in preparing the block for good reliable service. The goody list includes:
-Block was hot-tanked, decked, honed, and painted in POR 15 (great stuff to be sure).
-Forged diesel crank (off of a M21D24) that I had maged, and the journals surface polished.
-Diesel connecting rods (off of a M51D25TU OL) that I lightened, polished, had shot-peened, gram scale balanced, and re-bushed to use stock M20B25 wrist pins.
-Super-Eta pistons (used to lower compression ration to 8.75:1 for ideal FI conditions) with deepened valve pocket reliefs (to provide additional valve-piston clearance due to the high lift cam I used).
-APR fasteners for the main studs and rod bolts.
-Ireland Engineering crank scrapper and oil baffle.
-New Glyco main & rod bearings.
-New Goetz piston rings gapped for boost application.
-New water pump.
-New Contitec timing belt & tensioner.
-New crank position sensor at harmonica balancer.
-Every gasket, o-ring, and seal has been replaced including front & rear main seals.
-New Beru spark plug wireset.
-New Bosch cap & rotor.
-New V-belts.
-New guibo.
Flywheel
-Stock steel flywheel lightened to 13.5 lb mated with a Clutch Masters FX300 series clutch & pressure plate kit. This clutch kit is awesome. The grip is phenomenal.
Tranny
-Tight Getrag 265 gearbox with ~180k miles, good syncros, fresh oil, and an Ireland Engineering clutch arm brass pivot pin.
Electronics
-Performance tuned chip. (Not yet tuned for boosted operation, but for current running configuration).
-Custom wired SRS port for airbag light reset from engine diagnostic connector.
So that’s about all I can remember on the engine. If there are any specific questions, PM and I will answer as soon as I can.
I’d like to see what interest there would be in buying my M20. I’m looking to get sufficient funds to the M62B44 for an e30 transplant. I was hoping to get around $2,500. Given what this engine has, I think it's a pretty fair price.
Let me know.
Thanks for looking.
So I got a freshly rebuilt M20B25/-B27 that I wanted to see what interest there might be if I decide to post it for sale. I’ve basically built this engine for my daily driver and designed it with the idea of using an electro-clutched supercharger. My goal was to operate the SC on-demand. In other words, run the engine normally aspirated for long highway cruise speeds, when in low power demand operation, and when the party poopers (aka CHP) chumps are around, and then hit the switch to engage the SC when I wanted a little more kick at the track or light. Then about a month ago, my buddy’s kid brother rolls his e39 540i trying to drift around a curve and now I have an excellent M62B44 to transplant into my DD. I guess the kid’s bad luck is my good fortune. So, now I have this engine that’s 100% completed and in excellent running condition with about 4,300 miles sporting a fresh rebuild that needs an engine bay to move into. That’s why I’m here.
Now to what’s in it for the new “home” provider. The list of work and parts include:
Head
We all know that the real business end of an engine is the head. The buck stops here as they say. In light of that fact, my hard earned bucks stopped and parked themselves into, on, and around the head quite a bit. I never thought a hallow block of cast aluminum could cost so much to bring to near perfection. The 885 head I used went through some serious planning and carefully detailed work to ensure a strong and health life given my planned and purposed duty use. Due to the tendency of these heads to crack between the 4th & 5th cam journal, both on the intake and exhaust side, I had custom welding done to reinforce the factory “weak” areas. I’ve had a head crack on me before, so I didn’t want to invest the equivalent of a Pacific islander’s retirement fund into this head, and not be assured some long years of reliable service. So I found a relatively low mileage head and went about putting it on a steroid diet. The question if the weld negatively affected the head at all is valid. But I will say this; I’ve run the head now for nearly 5k miles, and in the way and manner the Bavarian gods intended, and it’s held beautifully. In addition to the welding, I’ve had the head:
-Pressure checked
-Ported and polished intake & exhaust ports
-Fitted with VAC adjustable cam gear
-Fitted with a Schrick 284 camshaft
-Fitted with Ireland Engineering HD Rockers
-Fitted with concentric cut valves for better fuel atomization. I lapped the valves with a fine compound for better seating.
-Fitted with new valve guides & seals
-Installed new stock springs with 2.5mm shim under the valve springs seat to increase spring pressure in order to help prevent valve float.
-Secured with heavy duty allen head bolts torqued down to 68 lb-ft (bolt tensile strength is higher than APR studs).
-Seated on a modified Victor Reinz head gasket to allow high water flow through #5 cylinder water jacket port for better heat transfer.
-Fitted with new NGK plugs
Block
This block is pretty much a stock block. Relatively low miles (~180k) off of an eta frame. The factory hone hatch pattern was still very visible. I opted not to get too involved with the block. The head really ate a big hole in my budget. But I did invest some effort in preparing the block for good reliable service. The goody list includes:
-Block was hot-tanked, decked, honed, and painted in POR 15 (great stuff to be sure).
-Forged diesel crank (off of a M21D24) that I had maged, and the journals surface polished.
-Diesel connecting rods (off of a M51D25TU OL) that I lightened, polished, had shot-peened, gram scale balanced, and re-bushed to use stock M20B25 wrist pins.
-Super-Eta pistons (used to lower compression ration to 8.75:1 for ideal FI conditions) with deepened valve pocket reliefs (to provide additional valve-piston clearance due to the high lift cam I used).
-APR fasteners for the main studs and rod bolts.
-Ireland Engineering crank scrapper and oil baffle.
-New Glyco main & rod bearings.
-New Goetz piston rings gapped for boost application.
-New water pump.
-New Contitec timing belt & tensioner.
-New crank position sensor at harmonica balancer.
-Every gasket, o-ring, and seal has been replaced including front & rear main seals.
-New Beru spark plug wireset.
-New Bosch cap & rotor.
-New V-belts.
-New guibo.
Flywheel
-Stock steel flywheel lightened to 13.5 lb mated with a Clutch Masters FX300 series clutch & pressure plate kit. This clutch kit is awesome. The grip is phenomenal.
Tranny
-Tight Getrag 265 gearbox with ~180k miles, good syncros, fresh oil, and an Ireland Engineering clutch arm brass pivot pin.
Electronics
-Performance tuned chip. (Not yet tuned for boosted operation, but for current running configuration).
-Custom wired SRS port for airbag light reset from engine diagnostic connector.
So that’s about all I can remember on the engine. If there are any specific questions, PM and I will answer as soon as I can.
I’d like to see what interest there would be in buying my M20. I’m looking to get sufficient funds to the M62B44 for an e30 transplant. I was hoping to get around $2,500. Given what this engine has, I think it's a pretty fair price.
Let me know.
Thanks for looking.
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