I will be doing an engine swap within a few months. Right now it's hot as balls outside so you can understand why my progress is so slow.
Anyway, the original 1530xx mile 2.5L M20 engine is up for grabs. This is the i engine. $400.
Complete from airbox to exhaust manifolds, to oil pan. ECU and harness are included.
No oil in coolant, no coolant in oil. I first performed a compression test but I forgot to hold the throttle body open, resulting in some whack comp numbers. I then performed a comp test after warming up the engine and putting a few drops of oil in each cylinder. Today, I drove the car around for 10 miles to burn off any oil residues, and got the engine to full operating temperature. The no oil comp numbers are shown first, followed by the comp numbers after a squirt of oil.
Comp test, hot engine, measurement taken after three cranks, performed 8/8/06
Cylinder 1: 150
Cylinder 2: 152
Cylinder 3: 149
Cylinder 4: 150
Cylinder 5: 148
Cylinder 6: 155
Each cylinder came up to pressure very quickly, probably around 80 psi on the first crank.
Comp test, warm engine, with squirt of oil in cylinder, measurement taken after three cranks, performed 7/28/06
Cylinder 1: 180
Cylinder 2: 175
Cylinder 3: 172
Cylinder 4: 170
Cylinder 5: 172
Cylinder 6: 170
The engine runs smoothly and powerfully, though there is a little bit of valve noise. Probably needs an adjustment. Dist cap, rotor, AC, Alt, PS, and timing belt done at 126,321 in Feb 03. The engine leaks oil. Plug wires look newer, there's no ozone decay and the plug boots are dry.
The engine is still in the car, but I can remove it within fairly short order if you are interested in picking this engine up. Heck I might even remove the engine in a few weeks just so I can marvel at an empty engine bay. :loco:
You can probably part this engine out and make money, but I'd rather sell it to someone who wants a little more get up and go than a M20B27.
Anyway, the original 1530xx mile 2.5L M20 engine is up for grabs. This is the i engine. $400.
Complete from airbox to exhaust manifolds, to oil pan. ECU and harness are included.
No oil in coolant, no coolant in oil. I first performed a compression test but I forgot to hold the throttle body open, resulting in some whack comp numbers. I then performed a comp test after warming up the engine and putting a few drops of oil in each cylinder. Today, I drove the car around for 10 miles to burn off any oil residues, and got the engine to full operating temperature. The no oil comp numbers are shown first, followed by the comp numbers after a squirt of oil.
Comp test, hot engine, measurement taken after three cranks, performed 8/8/06
Cylinder 1: 150
Cylinder 2: 152
Cylinder 3: 149
Cylinder 4: 150
Cylinder 5: 148
Cylinder 6: 155
Each cylinder came up to pressure very quickly, probably around 80 psi on the first crank.
Comp test, warm engine, with squirt of oil in cylinder, measurement taken after three cranks, performed 7/28/06
Cylinder 1: 180
Cylinder 2: 175
Cylinder 3: 172
Cylinder 4: 170
Cylinder 5: 172
Cylinder 6: 170
The engine runs smoothly and powerfully, though there is a little bit of valve noise. Probably needs an adjustment. Dist cap, rotor, AC, Alt, PS, and timing belt done at 126,321 in Feb 03. The engine leaks oil. Plug wires look newer, there's no ozone decay and the plug boots are dry.
The engine is still in the car, but I can remove it within fairly short order if you are interested in picking this engine up. Heck I might even remove the engine in a few weeks just so I can marvel at an empty engine bay. :loco:
You can probably part this engine out and make money, but I'd rather sell it to someone who wants a little more get up and go than a M20B27.
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