Originally posted by silence
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FS: CONDOR UHMW & Aluminum Powersteering Deletes
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Originally posted by silence View Post*Update*
All new power steering deletes will be made of UHMV. (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ultra_h...t_polyethylene) it works better than the aluminum by preventing leaks caused by improper sealing with the o-rings. I am in the transition now, and will update the website.
*Update*
Clearly, the old material was up to the task for many users.
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Originally posted by BenMGP View PostI would so buy this if there was a DIY for the noobs like me. :)
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Originally posted by phenryiv1 View PostHave you done much testing with this new material? I am not at all doubting it based on some knowledge, just asking whether you have run the new material for long enough to say that it holds up.
Clearly, the old material was up to the task for many users.
•• Powersteering Deletes • M20 Motor & Trans Mounts • 24V swap mounts • UHMW Offset CABs ••
•• Rear Subframe Bushings • RTABs • Facebook ••
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Originally posted by silence View PostYeah i did a lot of research on this new material, and i'm in the process of testing now. Based on its properties, I have no doubt that it is up to the task. I stand by my products, and if for any reason you are unhappy with their performance, you can return them for a full refund.1989 325i Alpineweiß II
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Originally posted by silence View PostYeah i did a lot of research on this new material, and i'm in the process of testing now. Based on its properties, I have no doubt that it is up to the task. I stand by my products, and if for any reason you are unhappy with their performance, you can return them for a full refund.
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Originally posted by phenryiv1 View PostAlso, in for this.
1. Remove as much of the PS fluid as you can
2. start disconnecting hoses
3. with everything disconnected and removed install the PS delete plate.
I have one question on whats the recommended way of putting the washers in.
Should it be bolt/washer/ps delete/washer or something else?1989 325i Alpineweiß II
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Originally posted by phenryiv1 View PostI just want to be clear that I was not doubting you- I was just curious.
Originally posted by unrlmth View PostI've used UHMWP for other things and it holds up very well. Just curious, but you know how you fill the ends of the holes you drill on the aluminum one? Are you going to be using the same material with the UHMWP or something else?
Originally posted by unrlmth View PostIt is a pretty straightforward install.
1. Remove as much of the PS fluid as you can
2. start disconnecting hoses
3. with everything disconnected and removed install the PS delete plate.
I have one question on whats the recommended way of putting the washers in.
Should it be bolt/washer/ps delete/washer or something else?
Originally posted by gone002 View Postthink you mean uhmw...
Originally posted by DarkWing6 View PostI'll be ordering one of these soon.
FYI - Updated your thread title to $35 shipped since that is what the current price is. Should help reduce the "30 or 35?" questions.
Originally posted by rcfanatic View PostJust want to reiterate that draining the rack makes a huge difference on steering effort. I personally like lots of effort, but for those curious, simply removing the belt to the PS pump is not a good way to assess if you will like it
•• Powersteering Deletes • M20 Motor & Trans Mounts • 24V swap mounts • UHMW Offset CABs ••
•• Rear Subframe Bushings • RTABs • Facebook ••
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Originally posted by DarkWing6 View PostWhich is why I did it for you. :p
•• Powersteering Deletes • M20 Motor & Trans Mounts • 24V swap mounts • UHMW Offset CABs ••
•• Rear Subframe Bushings • RTABs • Facebook ••
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Don't hurt me for asking this in a sale thread, but it IS related...
If I want to use this and to swap in an E36 rack at the same time, I get to skip all of the PITA steps about routing the PS lines and just do the "mechanical" parts of the swap without the hydraulic steps- correct?
Also, doing this at the same time as an e36 rack swap is probably the easiest way to do both, right?
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