WTB: power sunroof retrofit kit

[aaron325ix]

some or all parts you might have to convert my manual to a power.

[aaron325ix]

bump

[Aptyp]

no local junk yards?

[ethree]

I have one I'll trade you for a piece of aluminum sheet slightly bigger than the sunroof panel, about an inch and a half on each side, preferably with rounded corners.

[aaron325ix]

what exactly do you have? and you want a sheet of metal? PM me for more info

[Danny]

Aaron, still parting out that car, I might have everything you need.

[ldsbeaker]

So how hard is this? Besides getting the front trim piece, do you just have to set up the motor, or do you need to drop the whole cassette?

[whiltebeitel]

You can't drop the cassette, it's welded in. You need the motor and associated wiring, trim panel, and button, anything I'm missing?

[germancarsonly]

Aaron, This is a kind of a PITA to do, but it can be done. There isn't really a "cassette" on the E30 that holds the SR stuff like on the E36 cars. You should drop by the Pick n Pull and take a look at a car that has one. Remove the headlining cover panel that the visors mount to and take a look. Then do the same thing on a car with the crank. If you look up the parts on "Real OEM" it seems that all you have to do is bolt up the motor and that's not the case. You also need to swap the mounting plates and the brass cable housings are attached to them. The cables pass through a little tiny slots to the outside of the car's body and you need to release the cables from the crank and the same deal on the electric motor. I think the two different SRs use different cables.

I've had a couple of guys tell me that you can modify the cranks mount plate to hold the electric motor. But, when ask if they had done it themselves the answer is the old "No, but I read it on a forum and it must be true".

Maybe you will get some tips today from someone that has done this. I have removed maybe 5 or 6 sets, but never installed one. At least I know what the parts look like.

[whiltebeitel]

After some searching, the copper tubes don't need to be replaced, only the mounting plate. A drill and some self-tapping sheetmetal screws could be used to convert the old crank plate. When i took the power stuff out of mine, it was a converted car, and the plate had self-tapping screws. It worked fine for the first two years that i had the car, and a long time before that. The cable housings are the same.

[aaron325ix]

After some searching, the copper tubes don't need to be replaced, only the mounting plate. A drill and some self-tapping sheetmetal screws could be used to convert the old crank plate. When i took the power stuff out of mine, it was a converted car, and the plate had self-tapping screws. It worked fine for the first two years that i had the car, and a long time before that. The cable housings are the same.

That is pretty much what I have heard. James Crivelone seemed to think it wasnt that big of a deal. You do have to drill out the old crank plate and screw in the new. I have no doubt I will run into a problem of two but i'm sick of the crank. I used to like it as it is kind of "old school". But I use the SR alot and cant deal any more. I also plan on using e36 switch and a one touch
module.

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=46667

[Schmalex]

Im gonna be swaping my power one out for a manual soon. If you're willing to wait i can sell you whatever i take out(minus the wiring because its too much effort to pull that)

[aaron325ix]

thats cool, are you looking for manual parts? my crank and other innards are only like 5 yo. How long do you think it might be?

[Schmalex]

2-3 weeks. Was just gonna pull the parts from my 325i. Does your crank stay in the locked position? I might want that =] Im gonna be driving up that way on the weekend of the 23rd so i will try and have it ready by then.

[napabavarian]

I know it's kind old, but did you ever get this? I can see what I have around.