The time has come to sell my 1979 Suzuki GS750E. It currently has ~23500 miles on it, though that will continue to go up as I do still ride it. It has been a great bike for me for the last few years, but I've started riding longer distances that often include some off-road riding, so the GS just doesn't get ridden much anymore. I've had the bike for about 2 years, and have been modifying and updating it since then, though I've kept it visually as stock as possible. Everything that I have done is reversible. I have a clean Indiana title in hand, in my name.
The bike comes with some spares, like points, condensers, some carb rebuild parts, and some spare pilot and main jets. I can also include a set of K&N pod filters that were on the bike for a while. I do have the chain guard as well; I just haven't installed it after painting the rims. I have new Oury grips as well -- they will probably be on the bike in the next week or so. It also comes with a Clymer manual, factory owners manual, and the original toolkit, which is complete.
Modifications I've made:
• Shindengen SH775 series regulator/rectifier, with the correct plugs. Shouldn't ever have a charging issue with this setup, as it doesn't overload the stator like typical shunt-type versions
• GS1000S front forks, as they are 37mm instead of the stock 35, and the originals were pitted. I still have them, though, if interested. Converted to air caps, and have some spacers in them for a little extra preload as I am ~180 lbs. This includes the GS1000s triple trees, converted to work with the stock fork lock.
• Salty_Monk front brake upgrade: CBR600 brake rotors and ZG1000 Concours calipers. I also installed a ZG1000 adjustable brake master cylinder to match the calipers
• Steel headlight bucket. Looks stock but won't crack or fade.
• Smaller front turn signals, but still plenty bright and are the proper wattage
• TrailTech Vapor gauge pack -- see the pics. All of the indicator lights work as well, though the dash plate ($30 or $40, tops, from TrailTech) is cracked. I didn't even notice until I was writing this ad. Battery just replaced (also wired into the bike's electrical system). Odometer is correct, as is the speedometer. Tach works, and has programmable shift lights. I have a thermocouple on the head so you can see about how hot it is.
• Kerker exhaust. Great exhaust, but the baffle is gone. However, the end cap and a perforated tube are installed, so it would be pretty easy to make one. New ones are available online for $40 on eBay. It is pretty loud as it sits, though I do like the sound. If you plan to ride it a significant distance home, bring earplugs.
• Coil Relay Mod -- ensures that the coils are actually getting full battery voltage, as the OE connectors can corrode after a while.
• 115 main jets. I played around with needles and the pilots, but stock settings with 115 mains has been the best so far. I am including a set of 112.5s in the sale, as it runs just slightly rich if you're really paying attention.
• Bypassed the headlight R/R loop to further improve charging system reliability, along with running the R/R leads directly to the battery
• Progressive 12 series rear shocks, 140 lb/in springs. Originally intended for a later GS, but I had them lying around and are a massive improvement over the original stockers.
• Integrated LED turn signals built into the taillight, with the proper resistors to make the flasher work properly.
• Painted the rims -- brushed bare metal with gold accents and clear coat. It looks amazing, at least to me.
• Painted the rear brake caliper and caliper brace to match the front hardware and fix some rust.
Maintenance items:
• All Balls tapered bearing conversion
• Carbs were dipped/cleaned and all new orings were installed 2k miles ago
• Oil changed every ~2k miles with synthetic oil and a new filter. No metal or strange discoloration in the oil.
• Rebuilt the timing chain tensioner 2k miles ago
• Newer battery
• Brand new Avon Roadrider AM26 tires; still have some tread release compound left on them. New tubes as well. Fantastic tires. They were also balanced before installation
• New fork seals and dust boots less than 100 miles ago, along with 20wt fork oil. I tend to like stiffer damping, but with the limited suspension travel, it is actually much more comfortable than 10wt was, and it matches the rear shock damping pretty well.
• New rear brake pads
• Checked the petcock for leaks, as they are notorious for this. It's fine. I will also include a spare.
• New clutch springs. Everything else checked out within spec
• New plugs 2k miles ago
• Checked timing, replaced points, which were worn
• Carbs were synced less than 500 miles ago
• Starts easily, and both the kicker and the starter work, though like all these old bikes, it's pretty cold blooded.
• Doesn't smoke at all or burn any oil
Cosmetically, the bike is not the greatest. That's the last thing I was getting to, but it's gotten to the point where the bike just doesn't fit my needs anymore. The seat has a small tear in it, though I keep the bike in a garage and it doesn't get wet. If it's raining I typically ride a different bike. I repainted the headers at one point, but the paint burned off, so in order for it to look great, it should really be done again. Apparently 800 degree paint is right on the limit -- header paint would be the obvious good choice. I did a quick spray job on the tank that looks like crap, but I did it to keep some surface rust from spreading. So far, that much has worked. I planned on stripping the tank later to fully go over it. There is a small dent in the tank. The inside of the tank is clean as far as I can see inside it. I've never had any clogging issues with the petcock or any rust in the carb bowls. There is also an etch mark on the tail fairing where it appears a bird pooped on it and it sat for a while. There is the usual corrosion on some of the engine case covers, and there is a bit of surface rust on parts of the frame, but nothing structural and there is no rust pitting. It's basically the definition of surface rust.
The chain and front pads probably have 5000 miles left in them, maybe a little more, but that will be due soon regardless. Other than that, all of the maintenance stuff is taken care of. I don't ride the bike like a maniac, and most of the miles are around town or on back roads. The frame is straight and it has never been wrecked. She has a lot of life left in her, but I think it's time to pass her on.
Of the old GS's I've seen, this is probably one of the nicer ones in the area. I've done my best to write down everything I know about it, and if you have questions I can provide a decent amount of tech support. I'm looking for $1800 out of the bike, or best offer. If you think I'm asking too much, let me know what it is worth to you and we can go from there. I'm not in a huge hurry to sell, but I will work with you. If you need the bike transported to your house and it is somewhat nearby, I might be able to help you out. More pics are available on request.
Either PM me or contact me at three 1 7, 7 oh 1 eight 3 4 8. Texting or calling works the best.
The bike is located in West Lafayette, Indiana. Sorry, not looking for trades at this point, except possibly for motorcycle gear/GPS. Never hurts to ask, though. I may have a few E30 parts I can throw in as well.
The bike comes with some spares, like points, condensers, some carb rebuild parts, and some spare pilot and main jets. I can also include a set of K&N pod filters that were on the bike for a while. I do have the chain guard as well; I just haven't installed it after painting the rims. I have new Oury grips as well -- they will probably be on the bike in the next week or so. It also comes with a Clymer manual, factory owners manual, and the original toolkit, which is complete.
Modifications I've made:
• Shindengen SH775 series regulator/rectifier, with the correct plugs. Shouldn't ever have a charging issue with this setup, as it doesn't overload the stator like typical shunt-type versions
• GS1000S front forks, as they are 37mm instead of the stock 35, and the originals were pitted. I still have them, though, if interested. Converted to air caps, and have some spacers in them for a little extra preload as I am ~180 lbs. This includes the GS1000s triple trees, converted to work with the stock fork lock.
• Salty_Monk front brake upgrade: CBR600 brake rotors and ZG1000 Concours calipers. I also installed a ZG1000 adjustable brake master cylinder to match the calipers
• Steel headlight bucket. Looks stock but won't crack or fade.
• Smaller front turn signals, but still plenty bright and are the proper wattage
• TrailTech Vapor gauge pack -- see the pics. All of the indicator lights work as well, though the dash plate ($30 or $40, tops, from TrailTech) is cracked. I didn't even notice until I was writing this ad. Battery just replaced (also wired into the bike's electrical system). Odometer is correct, as is the speedometer. Tach works, and has programmable shift lights. I have a thermocouple on the head so you can see about how hot it is.
• Kerker exhaust. Great exhaust, but the baffle is gone. However, the end cap and a perforated tube are installed, so it would be pretty easy to make one. New ones are available online for $40 on eBay. It is pretty loud as it sits, though I do like the sound. If you plan to ride it a significant distance home, bring earplugs.
• Coil Relay Mod -- ensures that the coils are actually getting full battery voltage, as the OE connectors can corrode after a while.
• 115 main jets. I played around with needles and the pilots, but stock settings with 115 mains has been the best so far. I am including a set of 112.5s in the sale, as it runs just slightly rich if you're really paying attention.
• Bypassed the headlight R/R loop to further improve charging system reliability, along with running the R/R leads directly to the battery
• Progressive 12 series rear shocks, 140 lb/in springs. Originally intended for a later GS, but I had them lying around and are a massive improvement over the original stockers.
• Integrated LED turn signals built into the taillight, with the proper resistors to make the flasher work properly.
• Painted the rims -- brushed bare metal with gold accents and clear coat. It looks amazing, at least to me.
• Painted the rear brake caliper and caliper brace to match the front hardware and fix some rust.
Maintenance items:
• All Balls tapered bearing conversion
• Carbs were dipped/cleaned and all new orings were installed 2k miles ago
• Oil changed every ~2k miles with synthetic oil and a new filter. No metal or strange discoloration in the oil.
• Rebuilt the timing chain tensioner 2k miles ago
• Newer battery
• Brand new Avon Roadrider AM26 tires; still have some tread release compound left on them. New tubes as well. Fantastic tires. They were also balanced before installation
• New fork seals and dust boots less than 100 miles ago, along with 20wt fork oil. I tend to like stiffer damping, but with the limited suspension travel, it is actually much more comfortable than 10wt was, and it matches the rear shock damping pretty well.
• New rear brake pads
• Checked the petcock for leaks, as they are notorious for this. It's fine. I will also include a spare.
• New clutch springs. Everything else checked out within spec
• New plugs 2k miles ago
• Checked timing, replaced points, which were worn
• Carbs were synced less than 500 miles ago
• Starts easily, and both the kicker and the starter work, though like all these old bikes, it's pretty cold blooded.
• Doesn't smoke at all or burn any oil
Cosmetically, the bike is not the greatest. That's the last thing I was getting to, but it's gotten to the point where the bike just doesn't fit my needs anymore. The seat has a small tear in it, though I keep the bike in a garage and it doesn't get wet. If it's raining I typically ride a different bike. I repainted the headers at one point, but the paint burned off, so in order for it to look great, it should really be done again. Apparently 800 degree paint is right on the limit -- header paint would be the obvious good choice. I did a quick spray job on the tank that looks like crap, but I did it to keep some surface rust from spreading. So far, that much has worked. I planned on stripping the tank later to fully go over it. There is a small dent in the tank. The inside of the tank is clean as far as I can see inside it. I've never had any clogging issues with the petcock or any rust in the carb bowls. There is also an etch mark on the tail fairing where it appears a bird pooped on it and it sat for a while. There is the usual corrosion on some of the engine case covers, and there is a bit of surface rust on parts of the frame, but nothing structural and there is no rust pitting. It's basically the definition of surface rust.
The chain and front pads probably have 5000 miles left in them, maybe a little more, but that will be due soon regardless. Other than that, all of the maintenance stuff is taken care of. I don't ride the bike like a maniac, and most of the miles are around town or on back roads. The frame is straight and it has never been wrecked. She has a lot of life left in her, but I think it's time to pass her on.
Of the old GS's I've seen, this is probably one of the nicer ones in the area. I've done my best to write down everything I know about it, and if you have questions I can provide a decent amount of tech support. I'm looking for $1800 out of the bike, or best offer. If you think I'm asking too much, let me know what it is worth to you and we can go from there. I'm not in a huge hurry to sell, but I will work with you. If you need the bike transported to your house and it is somewhat nearby, I might be able to help you out. More pics are available on request.
Either PM me or contact me at three 1 7, 7 oh 1 eight 3 4 8. Texting or calling works the best.
The bike is located in West Lafayette, Indiana. Sorry, not looking for trades at this point, except possibly for motorcycle gear/GPS. Never hurts to ask, though. I may have a few E30 parts I can throw in as well.
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