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Originally posted by dave.a.cote View PostPNWDan, your explanation seems to make the most sense of any that I have read. Basically you are saying the best you can do is put the spring forces through the thrust bearings and the strut forces have to go through the spherical bearing unless the system is redesigned, right?
On my car, I am running Koni SA's and I am trying to install these coil overs with the IE race plates. The ID of the thrust bearing and the upper spring hat that is significantly larger than the OD of the strut shaft on my setup. I shouldn't have the problem of the top hat not seating square on the backing plate but I am worried about the thrust bearing shifting out of place when the suspension is unloaded. Do you have any recommendation on how I can stop that?
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Originally posted by PNWDan View PostYes
The only thing I can think of right off the top of my head is making some sort of cup to go over the Koni's smaller shaft with a through hole for the threaded end to pass through and effectively increase the diameter of the shaft to keep the hat located on center.1988 325 auto-x car
1989 325ix winter car
1991 525i summer car
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Originally posted by dave.a.cote View PostThat was the same solution that I thought of. I will probably machine one from aluminum tomorrow.
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I'll ask Ireland tomorrow what they suggest for koni inserts.Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
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The Koni is supposed to be OK to run with the camber plates according to IE. That just how they fit. I'm going to get a laptop soon that will finally run my solid works 64 so i can complete some of my designs.Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
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Originally posted by einstein57 View PostThe Koni is supposed to be OK to run with the camber plates according to IE. That just how they fit. I'm going to get a laptop soon that will finally run my solid works 64 so i can complete some of my designs.
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I was considering getting some cheap laptop with an i3 processor and just RAM the hell out of it. I'll toss in a i5 chip in a few years when then can be had for pennies on the dollar. The PCs we use at school are dinosaurs but they keep upping the ram and video cards to keep up with the newer versions.Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
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Originally posted by einstein57 View PostI was considering getting some cheap laptop with an i3 processor and just RAM the hell out of it. I'll toss in a i5 chip in a few years when then can be had for pennies on the dollar. The PCs we use at school are dinosaurs but they keep upping the ram and video cards to keep up with the newer versions.
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Originally posted by tinkerputzer View PostRun the amount of spacers you needed to get the popping to stop. Currently i run 3 on the bottom.Originally posted by PNWDan View PostJack up the car and jack stand it.
Remove wheel.
Place jack under suspension and jack up suspension.
Leave the plate attached to the strut tower.
Unbolt sway bar and top nut on strut insert, lower jack.
the tube, spring, strut, and top hat will drop.
reach up and slip extra washers over strut shaft.
reverse assembly...
BTW, how did you strip the strut shaft? The nut should be softer than the hardened shaft.
Originally posted by IRON-E View PostEasy fix on the binding., I get it from time to time. I use silicone spray on the sleeves and the camber plates.
This happens with all the coilover brands, it's not just the GEs.
jou ma se poes in 'n fishpaste jar.
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Originally posted by thebutcher37 View PostEd, please let me know more about this.. I would like to go back to the way I.E. mentioned to put the spacers, just in case running 3 on bottom is bad, i would like to know more about this spray,90 318i M62B44 OBD1
02 530i Touring (Airlift 3P)
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