APEX | 17" 4-Lug ARC-8 Pre Group-Buy Discussion Thread

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  • Reub_e30
    replied
    Yeah that's for a straight up track car with a v8 or someone trying some crazy stanceworks stuff with an extremely stretched tire lol

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  • ian e30 318is
    replied
    17x10 is a little extreme...that would kill the scrub radius and steering feel in my opinion.

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  • chondamx
    replied
    Originally posted by GillesBigCowboy
    spacer-less 17x10 square would be my choice.
    x2

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  • GillesBigCowboy
    replied
    spacer-less 17x10 square would be my choice.

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  • Reub_e30
    replied
    Originally posted by ian e30 318is
    Same here if spacers are required. If this doesn't go through, I have my eye on another set of et10 17x9's. That's a good point about people wanting to run direct fit and purchasing the 17x8 option. The best of both worlds: option 1 for wide wheels that will fit a BBK and option 2 for a direct kit wheel that will require minimal modification.
    I vote for this method. They should put a poll

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  • ian e30 318is
    replied
    Originally posted by chondamx
    I am 100% out on these wheels if I have to use spacers to clear a BBK. As previously mentioned in this thread--all four arches on my car have been cut off. The fronts are very difficult to screw up. The rears require a bit more finesse, but it is not hard to cleanly reweld and reseal the inner and outer fender with a bit of patience. There is always the 17x8 option for those who don't want to do more than a mild roll.
    Same here if spacers are required. If this doesn't go through, I have my eye on another set of et10 17x9's. That's a good point about people wanting to run direct fit and purchasing the 17x8 option. The best of both worlds: option 1 for wide wheels that will fit a BBK and option 2 for a direct kit wheel that will require minimal modification.

    Leave a comment:


  • chondamx
    replied
    They do still stick, but to be fair, it's usually the hub side like you're thinking. Steel and aluminum always get finicky when exposed to heat together.

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  • FLG
    replied
    Yeah, Ryan (Motorsport Hardware) exactaly. Do they also stick? I assume it's more of a hub issue that makes em stick more then anything else?

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

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  • chondamx
    replied
    While I haven't tried Ryan's, I'm assuming they have milled pockets to kill surface area? Been there, did that haha. Thanks for the suggestion, though!

    So, Apex, please build us wheels we don't need spacers for?
    Last edited by chondamx; 05-20-2016, 08:02 PM. Reason: Booze

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  • FLG
    replied
    I know the feeling, especially with drifting and changing wheels. Just figured sometimes people feel it's a safety issue. Ryan now makes some track lite spacers which might alleviate the issue, Might try em out.

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

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  • chondamx
    replied
    I agree that there's nothing unsafe--assuming you're running hubcentric. My issue is really more of an annoyance: it's a track car with brakes that get really hot--as the hub, spacer, and wheel all expand at slightly different rates they tend to seize together. While this isn't the end of the world, I have grown tired of beating the hell out of my hubs/wheels with a dead blow to get everything apart.

    I would be entertaining two sets of these wheels for easy change outs, I don't want spacers stuck inside the hubs of my wheels. That, coupled with none of my current wheels needing spacers to work, not really needing another set of wheels, and not wanting to pay for spacers I don't already have, I would be out. I have motorsports hardware studs and have been happy with them.


    Sent from my ipotato

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  • FLG
    replied
    Why? I mean nothing unsafe with proper spacers/studs. Been running Motorsport Hardware stuff on my drift car for years now. Never a problem.

    Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk

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  • chondamx
    replied
    Originally posted by JGood
    As much as I love not needing spacers, et10 would really limit the use of that wheel. It wouldn't fit under rolled rear arches, so flares and hacking quarter panels would be required. With et20-25ish, you could use it in the rear, and you could still use it in the front with 5-10mm spacers. Just my 2 cents...
    I am 100% out on these wheels if I have to use spacers to clear a BBK. As previously mentioned in this thread--all four arches on my car have been cut off. The fronts are very difficult to screw up. The rears require a bit more finesse, but it is not hard to cleanly reweld and reseal the inner and outer fender with a bit of patience. There is always the 17x8 option for those who don't want to do more than a mild roll.

    Leave a comment:


  • Reub_e30
    replied
    Also after looking up possible sizes to run I'm really feeling 255/40/17 tires because the offer good Street and track tires! And should fit well on a 17x9 with flares. maybe over kill for my m42.......... till it gets boosted
    Last edited by Reub_e30; 05-20-2016, 08:34 AM.

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  • ian e30 318is
    replied
    Originally posted by JGood
    As much as I love not needing spacers, et10 would really limit the use of that wheel. It wouldn't fit under rolled rear arches, so flares and hacking quarter panels would be required. With et20-25ish, you could use it in the rear, and you could still use it in the front with 5-10mm spacers. Just my 2 cents...
    Spacers add another $100-150 per pair of wheels. Paint Pro, would it be possible (or even make sense) to flow form an et10 17x9 and machine the offset to et20-25 for customers that want higher offset? Not sure what this does to cost on the Apex end. Just thinking out loud.

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