**GB - C3Motorsport Coilover Kit - $1450 *shipped*

[E30Driv3R]

I dont live in cali and i got mine saturday. dont worry i thought it would never come. lol but it is well worth it! cant wait to install this weekend.

[silversleeper]

got mine yesterday ftw!

[White Nightmare]

The gaskets are not needed because the gasket is designed to prevent the mount from rusting to the body (both parts are steel). These mounts are made from aluminum, and as we all know aluminum doesn't rust and therefore won't bond to the body. The gasket won't really gain you anything, but it certainly won't hurt to add one either ;).

As for removing the rear sway bar, it's not really necessary. Once you're using the M3 sway links it stays pretty balanced with the sway in the rear. Erik325i was running it without the rear sway, but he also hadn't added the front sway links in yet.

The front links make the front bar more efficient and thereby stiffens the front. The age old adage of stiffen the front to increase understeer, stiffen the rear to increase oversteer. The links combined with the rear sway actually keeps the system in check.

Sounds good man. I had thought that maybe they were there because of them being metal as well but wasn't totally sure. I think I will get some new ones just to set my mind at ease. I was also wondering if the sway bar end links should be made up of heim joints ? Thanks again.

-Chris

[White Nightmare]

Ok guys I have a stupid question. I ripped my strut assembly's off and found out that there wasn't a bump stop on either of the front struts. My question is if I really need them. If so I will order some but I figured id ask. Thanks in advance.

-Chris

[Slyder]

They're a nice to have, especially for a street vehicle. The purpose of having them is to protect your shocks from bottoming out (smashing the piston into the bottom of the shock body) and damaging it internally.

You can take the bump stops and shorten them by cutting them. They are nothing more than formed pieces of foam. From the factory, you have 2 choices for the 325i/M3

325i bumpstop: 31 33 1 124 449
M3 Bumpstop: 31 33 2 225 377

The M3 stop is a little shorter and firmer...so it may be a better choice if you plan to dramatically lower and don't want to worry about cutting much off.

[White Nightmare]

Thanks Jason, Do you happen to know how much those bad boys cost ? If not then no big deal.

-Chris

[Slyder]

I can set you up with some for about $15 each if you find the local dealer isn't much help. The dealer will probably be faster and not much more expensive, and it will save you on shipping.

[White Nightmare]

Thanks Jason, I will check out the dealer and see what I can come up with. I did just run into a little snag though. When I slide the strut insert into the tube with the small ring on top and then the spacer it seems that the spacer sticks out quite a bit. This problems occurs with both strut assemblies. What do you think the problem is here ?

-Chris

[Slyder]

I had a very similar issue when I put my initial kit together, but it only occurred with one of the two struts.

What we had identified as the problem was in the welds that Koni has made along the bottom of their strut inserts. There was a little bit of excessive weld along the bottom that runs around the entire base of the strut insert. This little extra nub of a weld was just enough to bind in the base of the struts and make it difficult to the bottom and equally tough to pull out.

If you look at the bottom of the strut insert and see a nub with a little bit of the yellow paint scraped off....this might be your issue. If this is the case, use a bastard file to grind the nub off and the insert should slide all the way to the base of the tube. Is the amount that sticks up on both sides the same measurement?

[White Nightmare]

Thanks for the reply Jason. The struts did stick out of both tubes about the same. I did what you had suggested and they slide right in. I got everything mocked up today before I drop everything off for final welding. Check out the pictures and let me know if everything looks right. Thanks again.

-Chris

[e30sd]

chris, did you use your old gland nuts or buy new ones?

[golde30]

hey white nitemare, looking at your pics you just showed, it looks like you are using the small spacer that came with the shocks also, its like 10mm, u dont use that. that came with the Konis, and it not part of the final assembly.

[White Nightmare]

chris, did you use your old gland nuts or buy new ones?

I wasn't planing on buying new ones because they cost about 22 bucks each from the dealer. But with my luck one broke apart when trying to remove them. The spot welds that hold the top part to the threaded part didn't seem to be very strong. When trying to remove them the top of one just spun right off. I ended up going to the dealer and ordering just one.

hey white nitemare, looking at your pics you just showed, it looks like you are using the small spacer that came with the shocks also, its like 10mm, u dont use that. that came with the Konis, and it not part of the final assembly.

The directions say to use the ring. I was just going by what I read.

3. Enclosed with the Koni insert is a small ring that sits on the top of the insert. This must be placed on the insert prior to placing it into the housing.

4. Next place the 3.25” spacer on top of the ring.

[E30Driv3R]

ya, i used it, other wise my shock slid around in the tube. these are like night and day night mare you are gonna love them more then life its self... Meaning you are going to want to take on and off ramps at scary speeds if you are coming from stock suspension like i was.

[golde30]

interesting, i didnt use that ring in my assembly, and my shock doesnt move around...