s52 almost start

[flyboyx]

ok, so i have it pretty much wired up but there are a few issues to work through.

i can crank the engine over and it will start and run for about a second and then quit. i presently have the fuel pump relay wired directly to the battery junction block through a 10 amp fuse. it runs continuously and i am using the fuse as a switch to turn it off when i wish. i was thinking i might have a lack of fuel pressure so i changed the fuel pump with a used one from one of my parts cars. i checked to see that the pressure and return fuel hoses are hooked up correctly. i have the pressure hose on the lower fitting on the injector manifold.

it has occurred to me that once the engine starts, it dme senses a problem and shuts of either the fuel or spark or both.

seems the engine has good oil pressure. i pulled off the oil filter cover and oil overflowed the reservoir.

anyone think of anything else?

[SamE30e]

Does it run well when it starts or sputters?

[gobuffs]

sounds like EWS

[BigD]

Check for vacuum leaks. Make sure all the intake hoses are connected or at least plugged.

[flyboyx]

Does it run well when it starts or sputters?

well, not sure how to answer that one. i would say that it is a little closer to the sputter, but when it starts, it sounds pretty good. the amount of time that it runs will vary slightly. occasionally when i crank the engine, it won't start at all, once in a while it will run for a sec or so quit and then run again for a second or so when i continue to crank.

sounds like EWS

well, i guess there is a chance it could be ews, but i would think there wouldn't be any spark at all if this were the case. i can trouble shoot this by pulling the key out of the ring antenna to see what happens. then again, i wouldn't have thought the engine would even crank without the key in the ring but it does.

Check for vacuum leaks. Make sure all the intake hoses are connected or at least plugged.

this is something i need to look into. i know i have a couple of leaks. one of the ports in the bottom of the intake boot is open. there are also one or two others.

[BigD]

this is something i need to look into. i know i have a couple of leaks. one of the ports in the bottom of the intake boot is open. there are also one or two others.

There's your problem.

[MIKe30]

get this sorted?

[flyboyx]

get this sorted?

well, actually, i plugged up two orifices in my intake manifold and the hose that goes to dip stick. now it starts and runs for about 5 to 10 seconds and then quits. if i give the engine throttle, it will die immediately. i haven't had a lot of time to work on it in the last couple of weeks. i'm in the middle of so many other projects. i'll tell you what though: during the time that it idles it runs very, very smooth and the tach is steady. still scratching my head on that.

i have been researching superchargers when i am out on the road and can't work on anything else. i guess you have to learn to crawl before you can walk, though. i decided to save that for some time in the near future.

[7pilot]

Double check your fuel line connection accuracy.
m

[flyboyx]

here is a thought that has occurred to me....looks like the obd2 fuel rail doesn't have a fuel pressure regulator on it. i talked to one of my buddies doing an obd2 recently about this and he mentioned that i might need to use the fuel rail from an obd1 manifold so i have an fpr. any thoughts? i did shit loads of research before i started my swap and i haven't seen this mentioned anywhere?

[atldohc]

did you swap to obd1 fuel rail yet? because yes you need one. the obd2 cars had a separate fpr in the engine bay or so ive read. my obd2 rail definitely did not have an fpr mounted on it.

[erik325i]

Yes, you need to run a fuel pressure regulator. Using an OBD1 fuel rail is the easiest solution.

Erik

[sharky]

I have a OBD2 FPR with all the fittings on it if you are interested, was going to go oBD2 so I pulled it off the parts car but I am a pansy and went OBD1 anyhow

[etxxz]

iirc you got a complete car.. the OBD2 FPR is on the bottom of the firewall on the driver's side on the return line. Run this FPR as it connects to your DME and if you don't have it you'll get a CEL.