MIKe30's 11:1 cammed OBD2 s52 build

[MIKe30]

I may have my motor build done before yours! :p

Lets meet somewhere near the Mississippi when we're both done and hit a drag strip! Lmao... at least a cruise! Actually am happy for you. I am hoping to have this sucker running by my birthday (8.12) or shortly thereafter (my birthday weekend). It would be my birthday gift to myself :mrgreen:

For what it's worth, I got the Treehouse Booster about 4 months ago after reading the recommendations that it was a no hassle way of doing it. I did get the unit without paying a core for it and it was cheaper than what they are charging now but it took a long time and required a great effort on my part calling and emailing Jon asking what was up. He did get it taken care of but his reasoning was that all of the booster they got were bad (torn seal? i dunno). The booster fit fine but I have not tested it as the engine still isn't in the car.

The lollypops on the other hand were shipped promptly.

I definitely understand your frustration though and if I were to do it again, I would probably source the booster myself and make the modifications.

Of course your mileage may vary...

Live and learn i guess.

Not surprised. Seems like the business is run half ass. Interesting about the units they're receiving being "torn"... it was him or his employee that told me over the phone they were brand new when I asked.

Sticker is not staying on the booster after I get it that's for sure.

[jackbenny]

Lost my oil filter housing, a r3v seller on here sent my harmonic balancer and motor bracket to the wrong buyer, and Treehouse Racing forgot to send me my booster :(


BUT, I have contacted THR (they will get back to me), the seller (he will refund me), and I have since paypal'd for obd2 harmonic balancer, e36 arms, oil filter housing unit, and e34 dipstick and tube I needed, and put the order in for the rest of my bimmerworld kit :) I will be sending the my ecu for them to tune tomorrow or wednesday. Should I get the brand new 24# injectors from them at $299, or should I just buy some used ones for cheaper? They will be tuning for my specs and will delete my ews, rear o2 sensors, and secondary air pump.


Edit: Treehouse Racing just got back to me. Not happy with their customer service or the way this transaction has been going. Not only did they not ship out an item that was ordered on the 22nd and billed on 7/24 yet, but apparrently there is now a $50 core charge that is not listed on their website.

When speaking to John, the owner/manager, he just gave me excuse after excuse and the best he could give me was assurance that it'll be shipped out tomorrow (asked if he could overnight it - he said he couldn't that it would be about $65 to do so). When asked if return shipping was on me or them, he said it's easy and cheap just use the same box and it should be $6 to send it back. Wish I was quick witted enough to ask him why he was charging me $30 to ship it to me in the first place. Perhaps if I hadn't placed the order so long ago I would've remembered :roll:


He assures me it'll get here before the weekend. We'll see.


moral of the story: don't be lazy and make your own booster.




Looking to put a clear coat or two on the calipers, put the new gaskets/boots in them, and mount these suckers tonight. Color on the can matched my interior perfectly, on the calipers they're a little bright. Should have used a darker primer maybe? Also looking to finish up the rack swap finally (steering knuckle was being a pita)...

For what it's worth, I got the Treehouse Booster about 4 months ago after reading the recommendations that it was a no hassle way of doing it. I did get the unit without paying a core for it and it was cheaper than what they are charging now but it took a long time and required a great effort on my part calling and emailing Jon asking what was up. He did get it taken care of but his reasoning was that all of the booster they got were bad (torn seal? i dunno). The booster fit fine but I have not tested it as the engine still isn't in the car.

The lollypops on the other hand were shipped promptly.

I definitely understand your frustration though and if I were to do it again, I would probably source the booster myself and make the modifications.

Of course your mileage may vary...

Live and learn i guess.

[e30polak]

I may have my motor build done before yours! :p

[MIKe30]

Lost my oil filter housing, a r3v seller on here sent my harmonic balancer and motor bracket to the wrong buyer, and Treehouse Racing forgot to send me my booster :(


BUT, I have contacted THR (they will get back to me), the seller (he will refund me), and I have since paypal'd for obd2 harmonic balancer, e36 arms, oil filter housing unit, and e34 dipstick and tube I needed, and put the order in for the rest of my bimmerworld kit :) I will be sending the my ecu for them to tune tomorrow or wednesday. Should I get the brand new 24# injectors from them at $299, or should I just buy some used ones for cheaper? They will be tuning for my specs and will delete my ews, rear o2 sensors, and secondary air pump.


Edit: Treehouse Racing just got back to me. Not happy with their customer service or the way this transaction has been going. Not only did they not ship out an item that was ordered on the 22nd and billed on 7/24 yet, but apparrently there is now a $50 core charge that is not listed on their website.

When speaking to John, the owner/manager, he just gave me excuse after excuse and the best he could give me was assurance that it'll be shipped out tomorrow (asked if he could overnight it - he said he couldn't that it would be about $65 to do so). When asked if return shipping was on me or them, he said it's easy and cheap just use the same box and it should be $6 to send it back. Wish I was quick witted enough to ask him why he was charging me $30 to ship it to me in the first place. Perhaps if I hadn't placed the order so long ago I would've remembered :roll:


He assures me it'll get here before the weekend. We'll see.


moral of the story: don't be lazy and make your own booster.




Looking to put a clear coat or two on the calipers, put the new gaskets/boots in them, and mount these suckers tonight. Color on the can matched my interior perfectly, on the calipers they're a little bright. Should have used a darker primer maybe? Also looking to finish up the rack swap finally (steering knuckle was being a pita)...

[MIKe30]

Sorry to hear about the problems you're having Mike. I had a very similar situation when I totaled my Jeep after and old man pulled out a parking lot blocking my lane, then took off when I hydroplaned into another lane to avoid killing him. I had 6 witnesses that put him at fault with a license plate and description of the car. Something got fibbed in the license plate number on the report, and they never found his car, so I was put 100% at fault. Fucking bastards!

Had I hit the guy in his driver side door with my big ass grille guard at 40 mph, he definitely would've been killed. Guess that's the thanks i get for saving the old fuck's life. :-x

Insurance companies are the worst to deal with, especially when it come to health care. Fight that shit! :hitler:

unbelievable.

I don't see how they can dispute the police report. Insist they pay for the damage.

Or file a claim against your own insurance policy, they will then subrogate against her and her insurance company since she was legally at fault.

Call your agent and ask for advice.

Just picked up the full police report today after work. She is definately completely at fault on the report. What really gets my blood boiling is that erie insurance (her insurance) sent me a letter saying they can not pay out "due to the facts" they have found during their "investigation" siting that their insured stated "she had completed her turn and was fully in her lane when I side swiped her vehicle." Unfuckingreal. Fact, huh?

I am calling the police dept on thurs when the officer on scene is in. Going to ask him if he can amend his report so it shows that when he arrived my car was in it's exact spot it was hit in MY LANE, so they can throw her statement out the window.

we'll see...



in swap related news, i paypal'd jrhaile weeks ago for a driver side motor mount bracket arm and a harmonic balancer that he has yet to send me a tracking number or have it arrive at my door step after numerous pm's and phone calls. Time to file paypal dispute. Emailing blunt for a quote....

[z31maniac]

You're anxious? I just wanna see the motor in the stupid bay. let alone start up. working on my daily as we speak. Some stupid bitch hit my car cuz she was driving while on her phone, police report put her 100% at fault, but she lied to her insurace company conducting the investigation and they dont want to pay out because of the "facts" according to her. FUCKING SCUMBAGS. So not only did i get fucked having my car sit there for 3 weeks waiting for a check, now i'm not getting a check and I was out a car three wks. FHL.

So instead of working on my swap today, I'm trying to put in the e30 rack out of my swap car (looks like my daily now has a bad inner tie rod on the driver side, i think swapping racks may be easier than swapping inners, i'm not sure to be honest) and replacing the control arm that I think is bent. Came on here to look up how to take off that center part of the CA that bolts to the subframe. Is it just that one bolt above the subframe that is near the motor mount? Seems to be a bit larger than a 19mm

edit: found it, yes it is that bolt and it is a 22mm.
edit2: got the nut off but there is something else holding it on...

I don't see how they can dispute the police report. Insist they pay for the damage.

Or file a claim against your own insurance policy, they will then subrogate against her and her insurance company since she was legally at fault.

Call your agent and ask for advice.

[e30polak]

You're anxious? I just wanna see the motor in the stupid bay. let alone start up. working on my daily as we speak. Some stupid bitch hit my car cuz she was driving while on her phone, police report put her 100% at fault, but she lied to her insurace company conducting the investigation and they dont want to pay out because of the "facts" according to her. FUCKING SCUMBAGS. So not only did i get fucked having my car sit there for 3 weeks waiting for a check, now i'm not getting a check and I was out a car three wks. FHL.

So instead of working on my swap today, I'm trying to put in the e30 rack out of my swap car (looks like my daily now has a bad inner tie rod on the driver side, i think swapping racks may be easier than swapping inners, i'm not sure to be honest) and replacing the control arm that I think is bent. Came on here to look up how to take off that center part of the CA that bolts to the subframe. Is it just that one bolt above the subframe that is near the motor mount? Seems to be a bit larger than a 19mm

edit: found it, yes it is that bolt and it is a 22mm.
edit2: got the nut off but there is something else holding it on...

Sorry to hear about the problems you're having Mike. I had a very similar situation when I totaled my Jeep after and old man pulled out a parking lot blocking my lane, then took off when I hydroplaned into another lane to avoid killing him. I had 6 witnesses that put him at fault with a license plate and description of the car. Something got fibbed in the license plate number on the report, and they never found his car, so I was put 100% at fault. Fucking bastards!

Had I hit the guy in his driver side door with my big ass grille guard at 40 mph, he definitely would've been killed. Guess that's the thanks i get for saving the old fuck's life. :-x

Insurance companies are the worst to deal with, especially when it come to health care. Fight that shit! :hitler:

[MIKe30]

Now that I think about it, I bent the mounting tabs according to the sticky that Robert K made. ;)

BTW Mike, when are we going to see vids of the first start up?? I'm so anxious to hear this thing! :D

You're anxious? I just wanna see the motor in the stupid bay. let alone start up. working on my daily as we speak. Some stupid bitch hit my car cuz she was driving while on her phone, police report put her 100% at fault, but she lied to her insurace company conducting the investigation and they dont want to pay out because of the "facts" according to her. FUCKING SCUMBAGS. So not only did i get fucked having my car sit there for 3 weeks waiting for a check, now i'm not getting a check and I was out a car three wks. FHL.

So instead of working on my swap today, I'm trying to put in the e30 rack out of my swap car (looks like my daily now has a bad inner tie rod on the driver side, i think swapping racks may be easier than swapping inners, i'm not sure to be honest) and replacing the control arm that I think is bent. Came on here to look up how to take off that center part of the CA that bolts to the subframe. Is it just that one bolt above the subframe that is near the motor mount? Seems to be a bit larger than a 19mm

edit: found it, yes it is that bolt and it is a 22mm.
edit2: got the nut off but there is something else holding it on...

[e30polak]

Now that I think about it, I bent the mounting tabs according to the sticky that Robert K made. ;)

BTW Mike, when are we going to see vids of the first start up?? I'm so anxious to hear this thing! :D

[z31maniac]

We used spacers on my 328 rack as well.

[MIKe30]

Maybe you just tightened the bolts down to bend the mounting tabs in towards the rack?

Thought about doing this... but I think spacers will be the better way to go.

[e30polak]

Well, that's strange. I've installed probably half a dozen e36 racks into e30s, and they always needed the spacer between the rack and the subframe. And just because you got me thinking about it, I double checked the part numbers and the same subframe is used between early model and late model 318/325, so there shouldn't be any difference. So I have no idea why you didn't need them.

Erik

Beats the shit out of me mang.

[erik325i]

It's definitely a '98 M3 rack. I had no issues with mounting, bolted right up.

Well, that's strange. I've installed probably half a dozen e36 racks into e30s, and they always needed the spacer between the rack and the subframe. And just because you got me thinking about it, I double checked the part numbers and the same subframe is used between early model and late model 318/325, so there shouldn't be any difference. So I have no idea why you didn't need them.

Erik

[e30polak]

And you're sure you used an e36 rack?
The mounting flanges on the e30 subframe are wider apart (approx half an inch) than on the e36 subframe, because the e30 rack is thicker where the bolts go though, hence the need for spacers.
Maybe you just tightened the bolts down to bend the mounting tabs in towards the rack?

Erik

It's definitely a '98 M3 rack. I had no issues with mounting, bolted right up.

[erik325i]

I used no spacers period. Don't know what you're talking about???

And you're sure you used an e36 rack?
The mounting flanges on the e30 subframe are wider apart (approx half an inch) than on the e36 subframe, because the e30 rack is thicker where the bolts go though, hence the need for spacers.
Maybe you just tightened the bolts down to bend the mounting tabs in towards the rack?

Erik