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Ok, I see you're running ok, and you have a gripforce not an F1 Prolite. The shop must have been familiar with this issue. Good shop.
I have just gotten to this page. I'll read up and edit my post but at this time The F1 chromoly flywheel will not work with the stock Sachs S52 clutch disc and pressure plate. You'll need to cut 3mm to 4mm off the nose of the ZF 320 throw out bearing guide tube. otherwise the guide tube will override roughly 3.5mm of the hub of the clutch disc and will weld itself to the disc. This will lock the engine up. You'll have hell to pay getting the box separated from the engine. This was my experience.
I had read that this was a common combo to use and did not see anyone else encountering this problem.
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AFAIK, the GripForce/Sachs setup was plug-and-play for my application and is working well :)
That sucks that you had to take extra steps to get yours working.
don't you need a sprung hub disc with a single mass flywheel anyway?
Sprung-hub discs reduce chatter considerably when working with a lightened flywheel, but offer no other benefit. You can use a non-sprung with a lightened or single-mass unit (I think - I could be wrong).
Ordered a rebuilt driveshaft today. Serviceable u-joints, balanced, with new CSB.
Next up is the GripsForce/Sachs flywheel and clutch to replace the dual mass unit. The chrome moly flywheel is something like 10lbs lighter than stock unit and the clutch is OE spec.
I'm on the fence about the headers. eBay SS reps for horsepower and lower cost, or shorty's from bimmerworld for torque, jet hot coating and higher cost. I can always wrap the eBay headers, but the collector hangs down pretty low. But then the shorty's will require a serious bend where the Y pipe joins the front primary... I would rather have the torque, but not at the expense of uneven flow between primaries. Any thoughts, ideas, suggestions?
Edit.
Ok, I see you're running ok, and you have a gripforce not an F1 Prolite. The shop must have been familiar with this issue. Good shop.
I have just gotten to this page. I'll read up and edit my post but at this time The F1 chromoly flywheel will not work with the stock Sachs S52 clutch disc and pressure plate. You'll need to cut 3mm to 4mm off the nose of the ZF 320 throw out bearing guide tube. otherwise the guide tube will override roughly 3.5mm of the hub of the clutch disc and will weld itself to the disc. This will lock the engine up. You'll have hell to pay getting the box separated from the engine. This was my experience.
I had read that this was a common combo to use and did not see anyone else encountering this problem.
i'm the first to say stock brakes are fine on an e30 but with an s50 you may find yourself running out of brake on the track. get rid of the rs4s for starters and run a real race pad like a pfc01 :p
I can't remember if it's the R4 or R4S, I have the carbon-kevlar one.
I'm gonna ask Levent and Turk to keep an eye out for one.
No brake upgrades - I like the stock rotors with nice track pads (I have Porterfield R4s on right now) and plan to keep it that way for now. All of the SoCal tracks aren't super demanding on brakes; Cal Speedway is the only one where there is a crazy braking zone, 120mph to 60mph, just after the banked oval, for Turn 1 into the infield. That said, my exit speeds should increase, meaning higher overall speeds... hmmm... maybe an upgrade is in order.
i'm the first to say stock brakes are fine on an e30 but with an s50 you may find yourself running out of brake on the track. get rid of the rs4s for starters and run a real race pad like a pfc01 :p
nice.. can't wait to see some post track day reviews+video. yeah def go the e36 rack now. did you uprate brakes?
I'm gonna ask Levent and Turk to keep an eye out for one.
No brake upgrades - I like the stock rotors with nice track pads (I have Porterfield R4s on right now) and plan to keep it that way for now. All of the SoCal tracks aren't super demanding on brakes; Cal Speedway is the only one where there is a crazy braking zone, 120mph to 60mph, just after the banked oval, for Turn 1 into the infield. That said, my exit speeds should increase, meaning higher overall speeds... hmmm... maybe an upgrade is in order.
That is the main negative about Auto-X, although I'm still going to do some Auto-X first with my new setup to get a handle on the car before I do any HPDE's.
The positive flip-side is you learn car control (and patience :p), but at a slow rate. IMO, you can jump into HPDE's because they are structured with classes based on experience.
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