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    $ m50 Piston price

    Looking for some feedback . Okay I posted a while back that I was starting the m50 swap. So I bought a 95 325 IS damaged car and took what could be used for the swap bla bla bla ... So when we got the motor out , I thought wow 170,000 is getting up there on miles , so dropped off the head for a valve job ect.. Then a friend tells me his( top end REBUILD only story) and Im off to the machine shop with the bottom end for a rebuild and the shop is backed up with work so be prepared to wait Im told,No problem, not in a hurry I said. So stopped by today day and the shop says we can hon and ring bla bla bla ... But it is not going to last for too long and if I want it done right, then order new pistons and he will bore it for the same price. So I go On line to Pelican parts and they want like $ 220.00 for each piston and Im not sure that includes the rings. Now I see why it is not worth it to rebuild the m50. Okay the shop guy calls his supplier and can get them for $ 139.00 each and that it comes with the ring set . Any feed back would be huge. Thanks up front for your advice. Should I hone and ring? or bore with oversize? I plan on keeping this car for a long time.

    #2
    they sell just oversize ring sets, but yeah rebuilding a m50 gets quite costly.

    Comment


      #3
      So you bought a 170k motor, took it in for a valve job it didn't need and now you're thinking about installing pistons it doesn't need?

      Why fix a problem you don't have?

      PS my daily driver has an M52 with 270k on it. :)

      Comment


        #4
        Thanks for the feedback. As for the valve job it did not need, It all depends on ones outlook. 170,000 = 14 years of engine wear , The motor is out of the car on a stand just looking at me ( saying now what). This car is only my hobbie not my DD. So when you are not in a hurry to get the motor in and running, You tend to see things in a different light. At least this has been my experience. If Im going to go through the time to pull it out, it just seems easier to freshen up. When we took the head off , we found the two thrust cylinders with good wear. So then its all about $$$ how much and how far do you want to go,And I was trying to get by with only fixing what was worn. This car is a money pit, she takes all my money and gives me back jussst enough Love to keep me coming back for more. Thats Cool what you said, I asked for feedback and you gave it . So Thanks Dude.

        Comment


          #5
          OK, I'll be more helpful this time.

          $1xx for pistons and rings is atleast in the ballpark. Aftermarket forged pistons start around $700 a set I think? The ones we get are $1400 or so but they are coated on the skirts and tops, extra beefy, and totally custom made to whatever compression ratio and other specs you want.

          I would probably install new rings ($60/cylinder?) and do a very light hone, unless there was a real problem with the bores or pistons.

          Comment


            #6
            Thanks Matt, When you put out a help plug and you get some feedback, well its a good thing.Im liken what you said about rings and hone. Ya I saw (Rick) at the machine shop putting in a set of those pistons in old jeep (AMC) motor getting the works. Be nice to have that kind of $$$. My m10 in the e30 has 247,000 on it now and still runs great, however one of the valves is starting to make a little noise. The M50 is going to be a nice change.Anyway Thanks Dude ,I see your 2,896 post and you took the time to school some noobie. Cool.

            Comment


              #7
              Matt's a good guy. And I agree with him.

              New rings, hone, carefully check rod and main bearings, reseal, done.

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by matt View Post
                OK, I'll be more helpful this time.

                $1xx for pistons and rings is atleast in the ballpark. Aftermarket forged pistons start around $700 a set I think? The ones we get are $1400 or so but they are coated on the skirts and tops, extra beefy, and totally custom made to whatever compression ratio and other specs you want.

                I would probably install new rings ($60/cylinder?) and do a very light hone, unless there was a real problem with the bores or pistons.
                that is exactly what I just did with mine 173k......light hone and new rings ($25 bucks/cyl at eeuroparts.com) - the pistons looked just fine
                Leave now before I shed my human form and kill you

                Comment


                  #9
                  Okay thats cool to hear. Thanks Red T Rex, 2002 Maniac and Mental eeill for plugging in.Monday Rick at the machine shop is going to tear down the bottom , so I will go with what you Dudes have said and tell him rings and hone Red T Rex can you tell me more of what you did to the bottom, like any oil pump,chain, retainers ect... And how much $$$ your into it thus far. Dude are you up and running? Thanks for the eeuroparts plug .Cool to see that we were at the same place with 173k and thought it is time do do something.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Sure,
                    Since I used a crank not from the same engine - I had it tanked and micropolished.
                    -Did new rod and main bearings.
                    -No new chains as I felt mine where in pretty good shape.
                    -the long guides only looked slightly worn so I kept those, same with the bottom cam guide.
                    -I did replace the cam chain tensioner and the main tensioner spring and piston.
                    oil pump, kept the stocker and drilled the nut and safety wired.
                    -all new gaskets everywhere.
                    -most hoses new as well
                    I am not quite running yet, just dropped engine in last weekend and I have been working on minor stuff while waiting on various parts. It's in, wired, fuel lines hooked. It's a cabrio so I am moving the battery to the trunk - sourcing parts for things like that.

                    I am at about $1200 on this list...........

                    Engine mountsThrottle CableClutch kit (3pc)Clutch Slave Cylslave repair kitexpansion tank capSpark plugsHead Gasket SetBottom gasket setPiston ringsMain bearingsRod bearingsHead boltsRod boltsSpider hoseCam chain tensionernon-return valveLower timing sprocketlower chain tensioner pistonlower chain tensioner springInjector oringsFuel hosebolt hole covers for top covermain BeltTensioner - shockA/C beltTensioner - shockAlternator cool hoseValve cover bolt sealsc101 terminals318i ecu mountOil filterClutch hard linetemp sensorExhaust boltsClutch master
                    Leave now before I shed my human form and kill you

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Thanks again Red T Rex, okay so this is music to my ears. My goal from the start was to do it right,but dont go overboard. I have looked at a lot of threads on here and it is Cool to be on the same page as someone else as far as the project goes.How much did your machine work cost? My top was $320 and bottom will be $ 600. This machine shop was less than everyone else, however you have to be patient . One guy wears all the hats over there and he rebuilds heads every morning, so that only gives him the pm to make everyone happy. Very Cool Dude, Lets me hang out over there when I have time. My total cost of the swap thus far is $ 2700 and the ball is still rolling.I confess, took the easy way out and bought everything from Tree House Because I just want to plug and play. I have to move the battery to the back as well. Are you going to use the e36 cables?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I bought a complete donor car for 1200 and then sold my 100K mileage m20 for 500.....got Group-N cams/pink injectors.
                        .....2.8 liter M52 crank/rods/pistons

                        My top-end was $250 but I took it in bare except for valves.
                        $100 to tank block and do the crank. I honed and assembled.

                        I am somewhere around 2K for the engine (plus a net of 500 for the e36 but I did get the trans, driveshaft, and a whole bunch of other stuff off it)


                        Hybrid on the cables - the e36 batt cable is 3" shorter than the e30 one, but that is what I have right now so I will just move the underhood terminal block over 3". I am using the e36 starter power - but cut the branch to the fuse box as the e30 ones are sufficient and they will reach the relocated terminal block.
                        Leave now before I shed my human form and kill you

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Did The same thing as you , bought a damaged donor car for $400 and sold the A/T for $ 200, took off as much as I could in one day , charcoal can, cats, ect... but did not have time to get battery cables and charcoal lines and a few odds and ends. I have to smog here in Cal, and that means my e30 1985 wil have to meet 1995 smog,( same as motor). Red T Rex your shared info will help me out , so thanks Dude. What is group N? Did you buy the bottom end stuff new , also is yours a m50? Did you order the tray for the trunk new? I saw on one of the threads someone had a m50/m52 with the battery still up front. I need to move the battery because the m50 is heavier than the m10, I put in H&R/bil springs ect.. for the 318 last year, and I'm not going to change them now.Anyway just for the record, Buying the donor car came from all the Dudes on R3V that shared with everyone what would be the way to go, so the road was already paved for me. I have EWS so a chip will have to be added. That was cool that you sold the Dinosaur for $500. 100,000 is still low,thats not going to happen here.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by RedTRex View Post
                            Sure,
                            Since I used a crank not from the same engine - I had it tanked and micropolished.
                            -Did new rod and main bearings.
                            -No new chains as I felt mine where in pretty good shape.
                            -the long guides only looked slightly worn so I kept those, same with the bottom cam guide.
                            -I did replace the cam chain tensioner and the main tensioner spring and piston.
                            oil pump, kept the stocker and drilled the nut and safety wired.
                            -all new gaskets everywhere.
                            -most hoses new as well
                            I am not quite running yet, just dropped engine in last weekend and I have been working on minor stuff while waiting on various parts. It's in, wired, fuel lines hooked. It's a cabrio so I am moving the battery to the trunk - sourcing parts for things like that.

                            I am at about $1200 on this list...........

                            Engine mountsThrottle CableClutch kit (3pc)Clutch Slave Cylslave repair kitexpansion tank capSpark plugsHead Gasket SetBottom gasket setPiston ringsMain bearingsRod bearingsHead boltsRod boltsSpider hoseCam chain tensionernon-return valveLower timing sprocketlower chain tensioner pistonlower chain tensioner springInjector oringsFuel hosebolt hole covers for top covermain BeltTensioner - shockA/C beltTensioner - shockAlternator cool hoseValve cover bolt sealsc101 terminals318i ecu mountOil filterClutch hard linetemp sensorExhaust boltsClutch master

                            just had all this done and a little more, know your pain man. I bought my motor in pieces and im piecing it back together now
                            http://l0st0n3.mybrute.com
                            http://l0st-0n3.mybrute.com
                            Work in progress: 1991 318i m50 swap

                            Feedback thread :up:

                            Originally posted by slammin.e28guy
                            I prefer having a female in the car at all times. They generally smell good, but you do have to put up with that hole in their face.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Well it is nice to hear others are putting money into the motors.Last week ordered new pistons from tuner so this is growing into a full rebuild. That means I have to make this a (long term relationship) with this car to get my money out of it , and I dont do well with long term. It will be nice to have a new motor . (Dont look back) So everyone says. Thanks for posting feedback.

                              Comment

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