Completely rebuilt motor, what break-in oil?

[MIKe30]

Searched but haven't found anything.

Motor is completely rebuilt. New bottom end, forged high comp pistons, all new wear items, chains, bearings, etc. Top end same, cams, new lifters, rebuilt vanos, blah blah.

IIRC the guys at vac suggested shell rotella. I don't remember 100%, much less the weight. Pretty sure they said dino oil for break in, then synthetic was fine.

Was going to try and start it tonight if at all possible. Just have to hook up some grounds, and find a way to remove the o2 sensors off the stock obd2 mani's. If I didnt know any better I would've said those fuckers were welded on holy shit.

Anyway, what oil?!

[z31maniac]

Royal Purple break-in oil? It's a special blend with extra Zinc and shit specifically for break-in.

[BDK]

nothing synthetic for awhile, let everything get seated and in place

[FredK]

There's pretty much only one Rotella T available at the store--15w40, in gallon jugs.

[MIKe30]

There's pretty much only one Rotella T available at the store--15w40, in gallon jugs.

is that what I should use, or the royal purple, orr none of the above?

[z31maniac]

I'm a big fan of Royal Purple and Motul.

I don't buy the anti-synth break-in stuff. There are plenty of vehicles that roll off the line filled with synthetic.

[FredK]

I really have no opinion, except to say, VAC has built a few engines in their day. If I had some balls out S52, I'd probably listen to their recommendation, especially since you'll be draining the oil within a few hundred miles anyway.

[z31maniac]

^Very, very true.

If that's who you have been using as your resource for the build, I definitely think they are legit source. Just use their suggestions and know that start up time is coming soon!

These projects are a great test of patience aren't they?!??!!?!?!?!?!!

[blueapplesoda]

sae straight 30 wt, non detergent.

shell rotella is one that I find locally..

[mazur]

I'm a big fan of Royal Purple and Motul.

I don't buy the anti-synth break-in stuff. There are plenty of vehicles that roll off the line filled with synthetic.

Yah, after the dino oil is drained from the initial break-in procedure. You really think they hand over a car with zero miles to the customer and expect them to break it in?



That special break-in oil is pretty expensive as far as I have heard. Most seem to agree to just use the cheapest oil you can get, especially for the first 20 miles oil change. Straight 30 weight from Shell would be good.

[mazur]

sae straight 30 wt, non detergent.

shell rotella is one that I find locally..

Beat me too it, lol.

[Aptyp]

multiweight oils aren't good for break ins...


20w is the way to go.

[Mike]

my m20 stroker I ran castrol hd30w, for roughly 500miles, dumped it, then stepped up to hd40w. All along I ran a nice fancy magnetic drain plug too.

[turbo325i]

http://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/

Joe Gibbs is legit. This is what my brother and I use in our chevy's

Spendy?... Yes, but you just spent lots more to rebuild your motor and why would you risk it?

You gotta pay to play.

[MIKe30]

These projects are a great test of patience aren't they?!??!!?!?!?!?!!

It's unbelievable how much so. Sometimes I feel like I'm so far from done, and other times I feel so close. It's stressful and my body is taking a hit. Last week of aug was the first time back in the gym in a month. Didnt go at all this week. I'm hurting, but desperate to get this running and running well.

All along I ran a nice fancy magnetic drain plug too.

mmm I like that idea. Hope I can get one locally!

Spendy?... Yes, but you just spent lots more to rebuild your motor and why would you risk it?

You gotta pay to play.

Someone mentioned "buy something cheap you're gonna throw it out soon anyway" on bf.c to which I replied "i have way too much invested into this to harm it in any way over a couploe bucks in oil"

we definately see eye to eye on that...