HELP - clutch does not work after swap

[bykerboy]

I am hoping someone can help me with my current dilemma. After putting my engine and transmission in the car my clutch does not work. The clutch TOB arm has no pressure on it until I push it back about 4" in the bell housing. This also seems to be the limit of the stroke on the clutch slave cylinder.

When bleeding the clutch the pedal just goes to the floor and stays there until I pull it back.

Any suggestions on what might be wrong. I hate the thought of pulling the tranny out but it may come to that.

Thanks!

[andyman2487]

Sounds like you forgot to install the little spring clip that holds the pivot-side of the TOB arm to the bellhousing.

[bykerboy]

Sounds like you forgot to install the little spring clip that holds the pivot-side of the TOB arm to the bellhousing.

Crap, I guess that means the tranny comes out.

[7pilot]

Pressure bleed the clutch/brakes first.
The clutch master may have too air in it. it sends air bubbles back up to the reservoir , but brake fluid is not descending during a manual bleed. You need pressure from the reservoir with the nose of the car in the air so that the supply line is sloping down.
The clutch fork would fall forward if the spring clip was omitted.

m

[Van Westervelt]

Careful with that, you might have blown out your slave cylinder if it had nothing limiting its travel.

[jahnaboi]

Pressure bleed the clutch/brakes first.
The clutch master may have too air in it. it sends air bubbles back up to the reservoir , but brake fluid is not descending during a manual bleed. You need pressure from the reservoir with the nose of the car in the air so that the supply line is sloping down.
The clutch fork would fall forward if the spring clip was omitted.

m

I would pressure bleed the clutch first. I did it manually and it took 20 minutes to bleed the clutch. Did what yours did exactly. When you push the pedal it falls straight to the floor. Repeat the bleeding process about 30 - 60 times. You'll start building up pressure.

[bykerboy]

Careful with that, you might have blown out your slave cylinder if it had nothing limiting its travel.

Already did that and had to replace it. :(

[bykerboy]

Pressure bleed the clutch/brakes first.
The clutch master may have too air in it. it sends air bubbles back up to the reservoir , but brake fluid is not descending during a manual bleed. You need pressure from the reservoir with the nose of the car in the air so that the supply line is sloping down.
The clutch fork would fall forward if the spring clip was omitted.

m

My clutch fork does fall forward towards the front of the car. I can manually pull it back several inches towards the rear of the car.

I bled the clutch with a mighty-vac and it was pulling clutch fluid into the holder so I think I have a good bleed on the clutch cylinder. That coupled with the fact that I did blow out my first slave cylinder makes me think it is something with the TOB arm.

[bykerboy]

Just to close out this thread and confirm I am a dumb ass I found the problem. I had the TOB off by 90 degrees. Pulled the tranny, rotated the TOB 90 degrees and all is good.

My clutch fork does fall forward towards the front of the car. I can manually pull it back several inches towards the rear of the car.

I bled the clutch with a mighty-vac and it was pulling clutch fluid into the holder so I think I have a good bleed on the clutch cylinder. That coupled with the fact that I did blow out my first slave cylinder makes me think it is something with the TOB arm.