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How do you bleed a swapped e30?

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    How do you bleed a swapped e30?

    I have an 88 expansion tank, an e30 radiator, and an S50. This equals no place to bleed the system. Any other way to do it but the hole in the Tstat or pointing the car towards the sky - or http://r3vlimited.com/board/showthre...ighlight=bleed

    #2
    If your expansion tank is ahead of the LF strut housing, jack up the left front of the car so that the tank is the highest point.
    open the heater valve and fan to max.
    For me, squeezing the lower rad hose several times a minute until the hose is too hot to touch helps move the airlock at the T'stat. I also drill a hole in the outer lip of the T'stat even though there may already be one with a loose plug there already. Once you can get the aux fan to kick in, you'll know that the system is bled.
    I have done this for years on water cooled German engines.
    The tank cap will release excess pressure...ie there's a hole there somewhere, so raise it.
    If you can't be bothered to jack the car up, it's your headgasket, your engine.

    m

    Every time you start the car after sitting, the cooling system self bleeds. It cannot self bleed if a large airlock at the T'stat stops cooler fluid from getting to the engine.
    Last edited by 7pilot; 09-29-2009, 07:03 AM.

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      #3
      so as long as the lower rad hose is cold, and the upper is hot then you know the system is working correctly? I just poped one of the smaller hoses off untill water came out. and it seems to be fine.after i filled it up i ran it with the working temp sensor for about 20 minutes, engine didnt even get to the halfway point, heater was starting to work.


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        #4
        If the lower hose stays cold, then the coolant is not circulating. The thermostat has to open. it will not open if it is not in contact with warm enough coolant.


        m

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