Another EWS delete question

[matt]

Yes you do.

What's on the other end of the wire?

Regardless of what anyone at TRM told you, if you are putting your motor in an e30, there is nothing on the chassis for that wire to connect to, so you don't need to cut it.

You don't connect it to anything at the C101 do you? (No.)

[Good & Tight]

What's on the other end of the wire?

Regardless of what anyone at TRM told you, if you are putting your motor in an e30, there is nothing on the chassis for that wire to connect to, so you don't need to cut it.

You don't connect it to anything at the C101 do you? (No.)

Matt I have not spoken to TRM, I installed the 506 chip and was told to cut the #66 little green wire.
Have not tried it yet, but I will try to start without cutting anything then see if the fuel pump turns on and etc...
Your are right about not connecting anything to the C101, makes sense. I will post the results when I have it figured out.

[Good & Tight]

O.k installed the ECU, did not cut any wires, the fuel pump turns on now while cranking. Did not have time to check for spark, will do that later.

[Good & Tight]

Well did some more testing and it is getting spark, but no fuel.
this is what's going on

pulled a coil and grounded the spark plug to the valve cover and plug
fires while cranking.

the fuel pump only turns on while cranking, pulled the plugs no gas on
them at all after cranking over a dozen times.

with a test light on the red wire of injector while cranking the light
turns on does not flash, light will stay on a few second after key is
turned off. will do the same if test light is put on brown wire of
injector.

Fuel feed from pump to front of rail and return on back of rail were
regulator is.

Sprayed some brake cleaner into intake and it fired right away.

Something is not right with the injector wiring.....

[peerless]

with a test light on the red wire of injector while cranking the light
turns on does not flash, light will stay on a few second after key is
turned off. will do the same if test light is put on brown wire of
injector.

Ugh, I am in the early process of a S50 swap and the electrical is going to fun as it is a automatic harness that will need to be chopped up.

In regards to the injector wiring and testing, the red wire is the positive side and the other is the negative side. Now that you know you have power to the injectors you need to test the ECM function. Put your test light on the negative side of the coil, it should flash indicating the coil driver is functioning properly.

If it stays on solid or off then the ECM is not firing the coil(s).

[Good & Tight]

Ugh, I am in the early process of a S50 swap and the electrical is going to fun as it is a automatic harness that will need to be chopped up.

In regards to the injector wiring and testing, the red wire is the positive side and the other is the negative side. Now that you know you have power to the injectors you need to test the ECM function. Put your test light on the negative side of the coil, it should flash indicating the coil driver is functioning properly.

If it stays on solid or off then the ECM is not firing the coil(s).

The coils are firing, the injectors are not. It's a problem with the chip, the tuner is burning me another one. Will have updates in a few days.

[BigD]

You did connect the injector ground to the lift bale right?

[Good & Tight]

You did connect the injector ground to the lift bale right?

Yes. Got the new chip tonight, still no start, injectors or switching on and off confirmed this with the test light, still have spark, fuel pressure to the rail is good. Maybe the injectors are stuck from sitting a few months.

[jrdeamicis]

Well if you are seeing spark the CPS signal is good (which in turn should get the injectors to fire)

I would pull the Rail out and crank and see really what its doing. Just because the test light is coming on isn't meaning too much.

[Good & Tight]

Finally got it to start.
Pulled the rail w/injectors and they were spraying fuel. Then for some odd reason I lost spark and fuel. Swapped out the main relay and it fired right up.

But the main reason for this thread was to show that you need an EWS delete chip for the silver 413 ECU. No other way around it. No need to cut any wires either.

[turbo325i]

Good to know otis, as I am going to be getting my swap ready and will be needing to know this. Thanks!

[5KWattson]

i thought it was a red lable 413 that had the EWS delete or some thing...im about to start the swap and i got one for $40 so either way i can sell the bitch if its no use

[Uber E30]

Red has no EWS to delete, most silver's have EWS that basicly reqires you to get an aftermarket chip or a stock 506 chip to disable EWS.

[5KWattson]

so to clarify...the red label 413 should start up and run with out a aftermarket chip correct?

[Uber E30]

yes, as well as a 506. Most silver 413's will need a chip though.