whats needed to make m50 reliable for d/d

Collapse
X
 
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • SamE30e
    replied
    Originally posted by rThor432
    I absolutely agree with this statement, by the way. Swapping in a NV motor doesnt make sense to me and I dont think it is worth the effort at all.
    I resent that. My NV is just as fast as my buddies M50 Vanos swap. Only mods I have that he doesn't is a Dinan chip and the 4.10lsd (Stock but if you want to call it a mod you can.)

    Leave a comment:


  • MIKe30
    replied
    I'd say don't waste money on an m50. Find one that's been running well, drive it before you buy it if you can - at minimum do a comp test on it. Replace the cooling as FredK said and throw the bitch in. You'll be happier in the end.

    If you want to refresh and blah blah, save up for an m52 and do it. you'll be more likely to keep that motor in there longer. just my .02

    Leave a comment:


  • Adrian_Visser
    replied
    wait NV doesn't have knock sensors? I learned something today...

    Leave a comment:


  • jrdeamicis
    replied
    And the NV doesn't have many upgrade options (not counting turbo). But who wants a giant snail complicating things for a DD?

    Leave a comment:


  • rThor432
    replied
    Originally posted by jrdeamicis
    I wouldnt even think about swapping in NV. The M20 has cheaper parts, everything fits, and not as much trouble at times.
    I absolutely agree with this statement, by the way. Swapping in a NV motor doesnt make sense to me and I dont think it is worth the effort at all.
    Last edited by rThor432; 10-07-2009, 08:54 AM.

    Leave a comment:


  • jrdeamicis
    replied
    Originally posted by rThor432
    I think he over-looked the "Non-Vanos" part and was just mentioning an overview of maintenance that will help the M/S5x family motors live a long life.
    I did. I apologize. I wouldnt even think about swapping in NV. The M20 has cheaper parts, everything fits, and not as much trouble at times.

    Also with the timing chains. Think of it this way. If you have any problems with your timing chains (mostly the rails on the primary have the problems) the whole front of the motor is coming apart to fix it. The rail is cheap (ish) along with the chains. If you want it to be reliable thats what I would do.

    I would also pop the head and do new valve stem seals and an elring headgasket. Perfect time for the front timing system refresh.

    Leave a comment:


  • e30s50dan
    replied
    Originally posted by same30e
    the m50nv has knock sensors?
    no

    Leave a comment:


  • rThor432
    replied
    I think he over-looked the "Non-Vanos" part and was just mentioning an overview of maintenance that will help the M/S5x family motors live a long life.

    Leave a comment:


  • SamE30e
    replied
    The M50NV has knock sensors?

    Leave a comment:


  • rThor432
    replied
    Like a few guys have said, the cooling system is very important. It's really the main weak point of these engines as far as reliability is concerned.

    I agree with the post by Spaz, and wouldnt necessarily replace the timing chain guides. I would do those if I were rebuilding an engine or if the engine I was installing had 200k+ on it (I'd probably be rebuilding at that point anyway...). I hardly ever see timing chain guide issues on these issues, it's very rare. Tensioner is a different story though.

    Take care of the cooling system, oil leaks, and make sure you have an aux fan, mechanical fan, or both and you will have a very reliable setup.

    Leave a comment:


  • Spaz
    replied
    Originally posted by jrdeamicis
    F&R main seals
    Complete cooling system overhaul
    New Knock sensors (a bit overkill but shitty ones will pull timing)
    VCG
    Oil Pan gasket
    Front timing cover gaskets
    New Timing chains upper and lower
    All new tensionsers
    Locktite oilpump nut
    New injector o rings
    New intake manifold gaskets.

    You could just order a top end and bottom end rebuild kit also for most of the gaskets and have a spare headgasket sitting around.

    Only get elring.
    I'd agree with this list, but i'd skip the chains, and just do the timing chain Tensioners

    Leave a comment:


  • jrdeamicis
    replied
    F&R main seals
    Complete cooling system overhaul
    New Knock sensors (a bit overkill but shitty ones will pull timing)
    VCG
    Oil Pan gasket
    Front timing cover gaskets
    New Timing chains upper and lower
    All new tensionsers
    Locktite oilpump nut
    New injector o rings
    New intake manifold gaskets.

    You could just order a top end and bottom end rebuild kit also for most of the gaskets and have a spare headgasket sitting around.

    Only get elring.

    Leave a comment:


  • e30s50dan
    replied
    Originally posted by FredK
    Waterpump, thermostat, and thermostat cover (if it is the original plastic cover, it will crack).
    and change rear/front seals plugs/etc

    Leave a comment:


  • FredK
    replied
    Waterpump, thermostat, and thermostat cover (if it is the original plastic cover, it will crack).

    Leave a comment:


  • vivalegreg
    replied
    well, im sure if you do some searching you can find out the service intervals and what they entail for an e30 chasis and then for an e36 engine and make sure the car is up to date with maitenance. i would def recommend revising some suspension components and possible rack install while you have the engine out..new clutch components..a good cooling system...detail engine bay...etc...

    Leave a comment:

Working...