Granaded s52... help appreciated

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  • slo325i
    replied
    I'm glad of the progress... good luck when you get her running! thumbs up for sure!

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  • etxxz
    replied
    that guy definetly has great pricing on specialized tools.. thank you.

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  • e30serg
    replied
    Dude-get the correct timing tools for the cam. Don't rely on using the square ends of the cams and a straight edge. The "square" ends are not really square, and when the cam retaining tool is properly installed, the top sides of the square ends don't sit flat.

    Look for ZDMAK tools on ebay. They have a kit of 4 or 5 tools needed for the job. Read through the Bentley and Pelican books more than a few times.

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  • etxxz
    replied
    Well, the engine is completely apart, I actually enjoyed tearing down this engine. It was very simple with the exception of the Vanos unit. I have no idea how I’m going to install it and time the engine properly -.-

    As soon as my ‘new’ piston arrives (gotta love ebay ~ $80), I’ll ring it, hone and drop it in. Further analysis on the bearings themselves revealed a variance of 0.0005” from standard size con rod bearings, and 0.0002” from std size main bearings. So standard size it is and no regrind required.. I really am fortunate that there isn’t any other damage and don’t even need to turn my crank!!

    Anyways, I should have this baby running in a week or so. I’m having a friend come over that studied at an IT to teach me about blue printing my block, he’ll do the hone and install the piston rings since I have none of the cool tools. Pelicanparts was kind enough to ship my parts extra extra fast as always and arrived yesterday.

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  • jrdeamicis
    replied
    At least its only one cylinder......

    Get some new valve seats cut. Some new valve stem seals. A quick milling. One new cam tray and cam, some replacement main bearings (if needed), and away you go.

    I wear that shit down completely and inspect every little part.

    Best of luck.

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  • 318isbmw
    replied
    Definitely can be fixed, glad its simple as that, I would have a shop check it out, as there's a good amount of markings on the bearings.

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  • e30s52
    replied
    It can be fixed. What are your plans now?

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  • etxxz
    replied
    forgot to post.

    Cyl #5 saw some contact. = gonner.
    at this point there's nothing pushing on these valves. they are stuck open :x

    its a little worse than pictured.


    :hitler:

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  • etxxz
    replied
    My work is all about engineering tolerances. I bought home my micrometer and a thickness gauge ;) .. but i have to figure out if my crank has ever been machined before. doubt it, but i don't know where this engine's been. All i know is that it came out of a wrecked m-roadster with 115k miles. It had coilovers, sways, i/h/e and a tree in the passenger seat.
    Originally posted by jrdeamicis
    That gear was prob. still sort of spinning on the spline of the OP. Just enough oil for the intake cam and its little hood but not the exhaust cam.

    Sorry to hear of the failure.
    yes incredible.. seems like the sprocket may have jumped on and off. The splines are not damaged, but there is some scoring sorrounding the splines from the shaft.

    this engine should be running again in under a month if my possibly unrealistic timelines work out. I hope most of you took care of this during your swap.. or that it encourages the rest of the 24valvers to take off their dresses and get into their respective oil pans.

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  • jahnaboi
    replied
    Originally posted by e30s52
    Use a micrometer not plastigauge. Its alot more accurate and you will get better readings.
    This would only apply if he is so inclined to wanting to and has the funds to afford an accurate reliable dial bore gauge and micrometer. (unless he can borrow some or has access to, then disregard my previous statement). Plasti-gauge will give you a fairly accurate reading. From the looks of it, you should be fine with standard bearings.

    -Jasper

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  • jrdeamicis
    replied
    That gear was prob. still sort of spinning on the spline of the OP. Just enough oil for the intake cam and its little hood but not the exhaust cam.

    Sorry to hear of the failure.

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  • e30s52
    replied
    Use a micrometer not plastigauge. Its alot more accurate and you will get better readings.

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  • jahnaboi
    replied
    Originally posted by etxxz
    Since i know nothing about these surfaces other than they are nice and shiny, how should i interpret this? Is machinning/resurfacing req or can i slap new bearings on them and call it a day? I'll start taking off the head today. Too bad i gotta go to CA all next week on business. I don't know if anyone here works(or is into) fuel cells. There's a badass seminar and conference in Palm Springs.
    .

    -etxx
    My suspicion was correct. =/

    As for the bottom end, you could probably get away with new bearings. I would just get the crank polished on the jounals. Just be sure to plasti gauge and assure your oil clearance.

    Your bearings don't look that scored to me.

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  • etxxz
    replied
    ^^ still considering how "mild" i want this re*build* to be.

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  • Dominic49
    replied
    thats no fun. time to build it for boost :)

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