Solid Engine Mounts

[etxxz]

I'm thinking of making a set... or getting them made.. mainly for track use. I'm trying to determine what are the concerns about going solid besides finding a new dentist and chiropractor :mrgreen: ie knock sensors, other sensors, stuff braking and/or getting loose AND preventive measures. I'm new to this.

i'm quite happy with stock e36m3 tranny mounts, so i'll keep them.

The common e28 mounts i had ripped after a few track days. Then IE poly (yellow) mounts just melted and deformed like a mother, the did last about 5 weekens worth of track.. both sides deformed, specially the exhaust side mount. Mind you, I heat wrapped the headers and had a heat shield on the mount braket! I'll post before and post-mortem pics later today.

UUC has a nylon option. This material has a higher temperature tolerance, but they are also prone to deformation, specially under heat and mechanical loads. I'd like to hear some opinions, specially from those that have solid mounts.

-etxx

[7pilot]

Have you looked at AKG front poly type mounts?

The E21 trans mounts are still rubber but stiffer than the E36 tranny mounts. The E36 mounts appear to be responsible for a rash of moneyshifts in E36 M3 s.

m

[e30polak]

I'm assuming that the seams around the shock towers would need to be reinforced, as well as the front subframe. The chassis already flexes like crazy when you hit w/ an s52, you would put even more strain on the chassis with solid mounts.

[shiboujin]

Shock towers are fine. Get solid mounts! Make me a set too.

[2002maniac]

AKG>IE I would try their poly mounts first.

[etxxz]

for what reason? not only are they twice as expensive, but i might find myself in the same situation. Are you running these? what is your experience?

Shock towers are fine. Get solid mounts! Make me a set too.

I might take advantage of the fact that there is no motor in my engine bay and put a couple seam welds after I reinforce my front subframe.
I’ll pm you after I get mine in. Reading on knock sensors bf.c doesn’t have much info either. Lots of guys run them so they must be okay for engine sensors.
They do, however, make big point on checking bolts frequently which I do anyways before track events specially.

[Artful Dodger]

I am looking at making my own mounts as well. I was told the stock e28 mounts dont have the correct angle to mate up with the engine mount arms from the e36. this causes most of the tearing issues down the road. I have been thinking about using a material called "Hydlar Z" it is a kevlar/nylon mix. It is suppused to stand up well against heat and not deform. I have a freind that is running this on his e36 and has not complained yet. I need to get the engine in the car to determine the locations of the bolts and the angle needed. the material is a bit pricey but I might justify it by making a few sets and selling the extras.

[shiboujin]

plz do :)

I plan on ripping my mounts out if I haven't already. I put down a bit more than the average 24v swap.

[etxxz]

I am looking at making my own mounts as well. I was told the stock e28 mounts dont have the correct angle to mate up with the engine mount arms from the e36. this causes most of the tearing issues down the road. I have been thinking about using a material called "Hydlar Z" it is a kevlar/nylon mix. It is suppused to stand up well against heat and not deform. I have a freind that is running this on his e36 and has not complained yet. I need to get the engine in the car to determine the locations of the bolts and the angle needed. the material is a bit pricey but I might justify it by making a few sets and selling the extras.

that is exactly the other material i was considering. I found it for about $120/ft for a 2.5" diameter rod. tensile/compressive strengths of ~16/20ksi respectively, but its thermal tolerance is only about a third higher than polyurethane and starts to degrade shortly after 150*C.

Now, on track cars like ours where the headers are SOOOOO close to the engine mount, the factor of safety is small. That is why i am pretty focused on a solid mount. When i get mine in, i will post a pic. It will be a bolt through and will accomodate the angle of the mount bracket.. Its tough (more expensive) to make it with two separate bolts.

[Artful Dodger]

Are you pretty much going to make it out of aluminum?

[etxxz]

my bad, by solid i mean aluminium. I can get the geometry right.. can the engine/engine management handle it is another story. one that i'd like to verify.

[Artful Dodger]

I would think so. The Hydlar Z is not soft like poly. The e36 with these mounts does not have any problems. It has the engine mounts and transmission mounts out of hydlar. He uses the car as a competitive autox car. It wins the class every event. it is also driven by multiple drivers and driven to and from the events. they run a Sparco seat and they dont complain much about vibrations. I think at that point it is a personal opinion on comfort.

I think the aluminum mounts will be fine, just not "comfortable".

Let me know how much of an angle you have to put on the mounts. I would like to make mine before I get ready to drop the engine in.

[White325is]

My buddy made me a set. I just slotted the holes in the frame so I could center the motor up in the engine bay.

[surebimmer]

http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=TDR9980001

http://www.evosport.com/product/proddetail.aspx?partnum=EVO.DRV.BXX.B01

http://www.akgmotorsport.com/catalog/catalog.php?catalog=MTS36A

Found these 3 sets. The TMS lower the motor 5mm, the AKG say 15mm, and the evo sport look stock size? I wonder if my long tube headers would still clear the subframe if you lower the motor?

[Artful Dodger]

I understand wanting to lower the engine for better center of gravity, but I am worried about ripping my oil pan open again. also, I was told I needed to add 5mm to the e28 mounts for the long tube headers to clear in the first place.