Hopefully tomorrow I will be checking out a 96 328is that has lots-o body damage but supposedly I complete running/5 speed and all that good stuff. As far as trying to find out the engines condition best thing to do would be a compression test? There is a lot of m/s50 stuff on here but not a whole lot on m52. Are there any major differences with this swap or is it all the same as far as e34 oil pan, OBD I stuff from m50, brake booster, ect(stuff in sticky)? Is the wiring different if I were to buy an adapter from AKG for m50? Right now im just planning on getting all the pieces together especially because this m52 deal may just be too good to pass up, like free after I part the rest of the car out. Also what kind of whp numbers can I expect from m52, chip, headers, light weight flywheel, s52 cams? Any advices is much appreciated.
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m52b28 swap questions
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m52b28 swap questions
Originally posted by b3albakiithe head was okey .. and in a good mood
no i didnt over heat it so muchTags: None
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are you planning on converting to odb1? if so youll need a odb1 e36 harness along with the AKG adapter harness, youll have to "delete" the secondary o2 sensors which are actully A/F sensors. i believe the intake has an air pump youll have to delete for odb1 as well...basically youll have to turn the M52 into an M50 for the engine to run on ODB1.....someone correct me if im wrong i havent done a TON of M52 research but a fair amount"God created turbo lag to give V8's a chance" Taylor D.
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I cam make you an adapter if you go obd1, but basicaly you need all of the obd1 parts for a m/s50
maf, nock sensors, coolant temp, o2, air temp,tps crak and cam. along with a 413 or 506 red label dme and a harness for a e36/34 from late 92-95.
also far as the above comment you can use the stock m52 headers and just get plugs for the o2 sensor ports, or weld them close, you will not need any of the obd2 stuff air pump maf 02 sensors ect...
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^^ when the time comes I will PM you for sure, thanksOriginally posted by b3albakiithe head was okey .. and in a good mood
no i didnt over heat it so much
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Checked out the 96 328is today. Car has 146xxx miles, hit a patch of ice recently and basically smashed up all 4 corners of the car, especially the rear. The car starts with a jump cuz battery is dead. drove/moved the car in 1st and reverse, went into gear fine, clutch seemed to grab pretty quickly compared to my e30. When I got there the car was running and warmed up, but was going tick tick tick... is this bad, a deal breaker? guy said it needs a valve adjustment but he didn't seem to know much about BMWs. Maybe its just the emission valve??? The car was his sons, he has only had the car since the summer, no records, has title, interior is pretty beat. Guy says he paid $2500 before it wrecked wants $850 for it because he had just put $400 into new tires with <400 miles, or I could get it for $550 but would have to find my own wheels and tires to get it home. What do you guys think? Seems like I could maybe have a free engine and trans once I part the rest of it and OBDII stuff?Originally posted by b3albakiithe head was okey .. and in a good mood
no i didnt over heat it so much
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Originally posted by foofopps View PostChecked out the 96 328is today. Car has 146xxx miles, hit a patch of ice recently and basically smashed up all 4 corners of the car, especially the rear. The car starts with a jump cuz battery is dead. drove/moved the car in 1st and reverse, went into gear fine, clutch seemed to grab pretty quickly compared to my e30. When I got there the car was running and warmed up, but was going tick tick tick... is this bad, a deal breaker? guy said it needs a valve adjustment but he didn't seem to know much about BMWs. Maybe its just the emission valve??? The car was his sons, he has only had the car since the summer, no records, has title, interior is pretty beat. Guy says he paid $2500 before it wrecked wants $850 for it because he had just put $400 into new tires with <400 miles, or I could get it for $550 but would have to find my own wheels and tires to get it home. What do you guys think? Seems like I could maybe have a free engine and trans once I part the rest of it and OBDII stuff?
Originally posted by Johnny Redline View Postextremely helpful. is that all the stuff you need for an obd 1 swap from obd 2????Last edited by gregslow318i; 12-20-2009, 08:42 PM.
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what do you 24v guys have to say about the tick tick tick at idle? im guessing its not a big deal, but would like some reassuranceOriginally posted by b3albakiithe head was okey .. and in a good mood
no i didnt over heat it so much
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Originally posted by foofopps View Postwhat do you 24v guys have to say about the tick tick tick at idle? im guessing its not a big deal, but would like some reassurance
see rebuild diy below
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Originally posted by xwill112x View Postnot to thread jack..but
what are the benifits of a m52 over a m50?
diffrences in realiability?
cool little thing about the m52 is that the crank and rods(iirc) are all forged ware as the m50 is cast
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Originally posted by foofopps View Postwhat do you 24v guys have to say about the tick tick tick at idle? im guessing its not a big deal, but would like some reassurance
The engine is pretty quiet.
if it sounds like a single tick that corresponds to one engine revolution, then you may want to replace all rod bearings when the oil pan is changed.
If the tick is rpm dependent but faster than the crank, then it is probably a sticky lifter which may be ok after a couple of running cycles.
Otherwise, the main source of ticking is the injectors.
In summary, you need to narrow down the source of the tick..Block or head..
m
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