New ECU still many problems.

[87e30]

Well I got a new EWS delete ECU which worked perfectly, but now my car is throwing several other codes. Still acts like it's misfiring (after driving perfectly for 2-3 minutes while it warms up) and it cuts power at about 5k. (only tried to rev it up that high once. For the first couple minutes it runs perfectly, and I get excited thinking it's fixed...

Here are the error codes:
EA "Catalyst efficiency below threshold, Cyl #4-6"

F6 "Secondary air system flow too low, Cyl #4-6"

E9 "Catalyst efficiency below threshold, Cyl #1-3"

D9 CAN bus timeout

14 Check engine lamp

12 EWS Signal

34 Rear exhaust valve flap

06 "Fuel Injector, Cyl #1"

3d "AfterCat oxygen sensor heater, Cyl #4-6"

D6 Vehicle speed signal not present



I don't see any major problems that I wouldn't expect except for the fuel injector one code. It's been throwing this for a long time, I've replaced the injector and fiddled with it quite a bit.

Perhaps I need to reset something? Drive the car more? I'm lost and I'm getting really frustrated and sick of this.

[MattM]

D6, you need to hook up the vehicle speed to the green plug on the back of the tach, i cant remember what pin on the x20 it is though...

F6 vacum leak??

12 your going to have to live with, since you dont have EWS

14 does your check engine light flash before starting the car?

[87e30]

D6, you need to hook up the vehicle speed to the green plug on the back of the tach, i cant remember what pin on the x20 it is though...

F6 vacum leak??

12 your going to have to live with, since you dont have EWS

14 does your check engine light flash before starting the car?

I'm pretty sure I know what they mean, I just don't see how they are cuasing the car to misfire, and then stumble really badly. It would almost die to the point where the headlights would dim then it would get itself going again.

To answer some questions, I got the tach working by wiring it up to a plug in my glovebox. Only way with the early models to get the tach working as far as I could research. I think that one problem for the air is the air pump not functioning properly, again that shouldn't be important. EWS has been deleted, so again not surprised. And the check engine light isn't currently working... I'm sure with this many codes it would be on, however.

Like I said many of these I'm expecting or not surprised by, I just don't see how they are causing the computer to freak out.

CAN I think is from the traction control not being attached or working.

[matt]

CAN is because that ECU used to be automatic. Don't worry about it.

Oh, and the speed sensor one, you should fix that as well.

The only one that's causing you any problems is the fuel injector code and you can figure that one and you'll be all set. :)

[e30 blue]

If it's any help, when I ordered my ews delete, Jon at Treehouse said "just get them to delete the speed signal",so that is what Turner did for my 85/m50, It was like $50 more,But I have peace of mind now. It is nice when you can just get those things out of the way .Stay with it, one thing at a time.

[White325is]

More than likely it is your speed sensor wire. Its causing the car to go into limp mode and note rev out like its suppose to. Its setup like that to keep you from fucking shit up.
Hook it up, let the car sit with the battery un hooked for a while and go try it.

[jogfrogjog]

More than likely it is your speed sensor wire. Its causing the car to go into limp mode and note rev out like its suppose to. Its setup like that to keep you from fucking shit up.
Hook it up, let the car sit with the battery un hooked for a while and go try it.

yep, that will at least take care of some stuff... no speed sensor, the ecu will go into limp home mode where it won't let you rev beyond maybe 4k, fuel cuts out... get it connected and see if you still have those other issues... I have a red label 413 ecu in mine so I didn't have to worry about the ews delete and the two 02 sensors... after you connect the speed sensor, you should prolly reset the computer like white325is said but with a twist... I learned this from Subaru forums.. disconnect the battery and press the brake for 5 seconds and reconnect the battery and try again and see what codes are being thrown if any... try taking it for another drive... the speed sensor you pull from the green connector on the back of the cluster from any of the 3 prongs and run it to the speed sensor pin on the connector, can't remember off the top of my head which it is... I went through the this problem with the limp home mode with out the speed sensor, connected that and it was good to go after that...

[jogfrogjog]

also for the injector code, check your connection and wires for the #1 injector and make sure they're not damaged... the codes EA and E9, if you don't have cats in, is prolly why... or old or no 02 sensors... good luck

[87e30]

also for the injector code, check your connection and wires for the #1 injector and make sure they're not damaged... the codes EA and E9, if you don't have cats in, is prolly why... or old or no 02 sensors... good luck

My o2 sensors could be flip flopped, I'm really not sure.


Really good info on the speed sensor. Maybe you could clarify a couple things. Not sure if it matters between obd2 and obd1. (I'm obd2)

I currently have a wire going from the harness adapter to a small connector (c101 maybe?) which is the only way that I was able to get my tach working. Is it this same wire that I should move from that connection over to the green connector on the cluster? I don't want to lose my tach, but obviously the speed sensor itself is more important. Maybe I need two seperate wires to accomplish both goals. My car is an 87 chassis with a 98 obd2 m52 if that is important.

[White325is]

Do you have your wires hooked up for your C104? Small connector next to the ECU on the body side of the car?
Its a white plug with a black/yellow/green wires I think.

[matt]

I learned this from Subaru forums.. disconnect the battery and press the brake for 5 seconds and reconnect the battery and try again and see what codes are being thrown if any...

That won't do a damn thing to an OBD2 ECU. You have to clear the codes with a code reader.

You need to run the wheel speed wire to pin 15 on the DME.

[87e30]

Do you have your wires hooked up for your C104? Small connector next to the ECU on the body side of the car?
Its a white plug with a black/yellow/green wires I think.

Yes, c104 was the one I was thinking of. I remember you got me in contact with a member on here who helped me get the tach working.

That won't do a damn thing to an OBD2 ECU. You have to clear the codes with a code reader.

You need to run the wheel speed wire to pin 15 on the DME.

Please excuse another noob question. Is pin 15 on the DME the same thing as pin 15 on the e36 harness connector? And if it is... then I still need to figure out which one the wheel speed wire is.

[matt]

No, I mean pin 15 on the connector on the ECU itself. That will be a different pin on the harness connector to the chassis. You can make the connection either place, wherever it's easier. You just need to find the wire to connect to it and hook it up in either place.

[87e30]

No, I mean pin 15 on the connector on the ECU itself. That will be a different pin on the harness connector to the chassis. You can make the connection either place, wherever it's easier. You just need to find the wire to connect to it and hook it up in either place.

Sorry, I've been thinking on this and I'm still confused.

1) where the heck do you attach a wire directly to the DME?

2) One end of the wire is on the DME, the other end of that wire is connected to the small green connector on the back of the speedometer?

[87e30]

Update:

(By the way thanks for all of the help everyone, I've struggled to make it this far)

Ran a wire from pin #9 on the x20 e36 connector directly to the back of the speedometer. This removed the speed sensor code and allows the car to rev freely. The code list is shrinking...

Here is what's left:
-CAN Bus timeout
-Check Engine Lamp
-EVAP system, purge control valve ckt
-Exhaust Flap
-Fuel Injector Number 1

Obviously, still the only real worry is the fuel injector. I've already tried moving the actual injectors around and swapping it out with no luck. White325is suggested that I try a limp node tester. I believe that's what it was. I've tried to trace the wiring back along the rail and I don't see anything odd. Any other input?