Maybe they sent you a flywheel for an s50 or something. Is it 240mm but the dowels won't line up?
S50 flywheels and pp's have a different dowel arrangement than s52 and m52 flywheels.
Gripforce clutch and flywheel kit. Yes or no?
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When I shift down to second from third I get some whining noise, also from second to first.
Is this normal?
When I shift down when approaching cross roads etc, like when I have put in the lower gear the rev will be at 3-4000rpm.Leave a comment:
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I ordered just a flywheel from them. It didn't fit with a stock sachs pp and disc. Idk if they sent the wrong one or it needs to be used with there pp and disk. I told them about the issue and they haven't done anything to fix the issue.Leave a comment:
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I don't have something called a local clutch specialist, don't know if there is anything like it in the whole country.
I don't slip the clutch more then anyone else. I have had a lot of cars, and changed clutches as well. None of them did get burned clutch smell by backing out of the garage or parking in a parking lot.
Yesterday I bled the system more and shimsed the slave out about 3-4mm. Seems like it is a bit better now. Have also runned more KM on it. I have now driven 670km.
Don't think mine will spin in 3rd gear. Running new Toyo Proxes T1-R 225/35-18.Leave a comment:
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it seems like you like to slip the clutch alot... i finally got mine up and running a few weeks ago and my clutch is great... 1st 2nd and 3rd gear burn outs holds great.. and its not even broken in yet.Leave a comment:
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I would take it to your local clutch specailist first before sinking more $$$ into it. They will be able to probably diagnose the issure for you. Im not sure what size release bearing you have used, did it come with the original kit?Leave a comment:
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Got some more KM on the clutch and problem is still there, tried to to a first to second burnout without luck. A stand still in first is no problem.
Gripforce keeps telling me that it is adjustment that is wrong, but there is nothing to adjust! If the release bearing is laying on the pressure plate it will get very worm and explode to last. It seems that it is a bit on and off, some times I can make the first to second burn, and sometimes not. Going to remove the slave cylinder today and have a look inside. Check if the arm releases good.
Or maybe just pull that fucking gearbox.Leave a comment:
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Is it sprung? I could have sworn it was unsprung because we got the same kit.
There is chatter, but it's not too bad. My welded diff is worse.Looking at the gripforce/F1 sachs kit on fleabay the pics don't show a sprung hub clutch they show an unsprung hub one.
So those that are running unsprung hub clutches and lightweght flywheels don't have problems with clutch chatter? I am about to pull the trigger on a sachs OE clutch here just wanted to see what others have experienced.Leave a comment:
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Ok sure. As I said, its not hard to just take the pressure plate in and get the spring replaced with something heavier. I had mine done in 2 days and it cost bugger all. This will sort the problem out. The biggest pain is pulling the gearbox and re-aligning the clutch again.Leave a comment:
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Ok, my disc is Carbon kevlar...
I was out with the car now. Tried to have it in gear and holding the rev on 3000rpm for a while when standing still, and I did not get any clutch smell.
Did also a first to second burnout out from a crossover, and no smell then. But that was on a rather cold clutch. Going to try the same later today after I have driven the car for a while.
In my head, I hope it just have not broken properly in yet.Leave a comment:
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The SACHS pressure plate you have should be running around 3000ft pound. Any good clutch builder can re spring and wind up your SACHS one (as I did) to clamp properly. I got 3035 outta my rebuilt SACHS with a 7mm release. It cost very little to do just the pressure plate. As for heat, you clutch should handle a hammering without slippage. This is where the carbon kevlar comes in, It is forgiving (unlike a metal comp clutch) however still handles a bashing.
a lot of the racing guys in our BMW open series run the carbon kevlar clutches as its the best of both worlds.Last edited by HybridNz; 06-04-2010, 01:08 AM.Leave a comment:
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Ummmm, ok. The pressure plate is SACHS in fact. This sounds like a expensive solution, probably will gain as much cost as a JBR/Clutch master kit from Bimmerworld. Had such kit on my S14, was very happy with it. But for the S50 it cost $1299 + shipping to Norway (about $100 in shipping)
Fuck, I hate when things don't work. It had to be SOME faults with this build.
I have also contacted Gripforce about it. Clutch is delivered with warranty. Thing is that I'm going to Germany 1th July, and don't get any money for new clutch before 15th June. That is not much time.Leave a comment:
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Fuck all this 'stage 9' stuff.
Go to your trusted clutch builder. Get a SACHS pressure plate, get it cranked up to over 3000ft pound (there is your 450+ HP clamp pressure) and buy a carbon kevlar sprung clutch plate.
Mine cost me about $700 NZD (around 350-400 euros)
Have it made to your flywheel and buy a normal bearing and get the whole lot balanced together.
DirtySix put me onto this, I even had my own billet single mass flywheel done for around $800 NZD for the whole solution.
Some of these online retailers really mark up the prices just cause its been anodised and its really a rip off.
Have a look at through my build thread for photos of what to buy.
Its not heavy at all and has much more bite than stock without drive train shudder that a metal system will give. It can handle second gear high rev track starts with no issues or slippage.Last edited by HybridNz; 06-03-2010, 10:51 PM.Leave a comment:

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