Swap done, car driveable, a few issues. M50 v

[isolatos]

My 86 es runs and drives great with the 93 vanos M50. This forum is awesome, thanks for all the info. I am having a few issues the car, I didnt drive this car before the swap, I bought it with a blown motor.

1-I wired the tach and instant econo up, it works intermittently, when it stops working the door chime also quits. Example-The first drive I took the car on I went to get a pizza, the tach worked on the way there and when I started the car up to go home it didnt work.

2-Temp guage. I put the brown temp sender in the back spot on the head. When I start the car cold the temp guage pins out on the hot side, then it never gets past the end of the blue range, and the heat barely works. I replaced the water pump and thermo when the motor was out. My spider hose goes to the top heater core pipe. I have also refilled the system 3 times using different methods, my thermo housing doesnt have a bleeder. I am going to get a coolant flush machine from my work monday and see if this does the trick, any other ideas?

3-The led lights work on my info center-but the lights that light up wheat each one does only stays illuminated for a minute then goes out. I also need to check all of my interior lights, none of them work, I am sure once I remove and clean them Ill be ok.

Thanks

[isolatos]

Has anyone else had tach issues like this?

[Wh33lhop]

You need some sort of a coolant bleeding system; you do not have enough coolant to reach your heater core or your temp sensor. At the very least, jack up the front of the car a bunch while you fill the coolant, and hold the reservoir up higher than anything else if you can.

Tach wire, check your C101 plug. It's probably corroded, but that's not necessarily your problem. Still, I'd give it a good cleaning and try again.

[M-technik-3]

This is why many with the early chassis use the M42 type radiator out of the e36 as it has a built in reservoir and a bleeder screw.

[MR 325]

This is why many with the early chassis use the M42 type radiator out of the e36 as it has a built in reservoir and a bleeder screw.

Indeed, the M42 rad makes it a lot easier to bleed a 24v system.

[isolatos]

I got a coolant flush machine from my work. I did a reverse pressure flush and it still didnt work, then I did a reverse pressure flush with the spider hose clamped off by the reservoir and it still isnt getting hot. The upper hose gets hot, the heater core lines are both warm(top one is the spider hose), and the lower hose and radiator are cold. I got the thermo to open once when I revved the car to 3k for a few minutes. Any other suggestions??

Also the tach always works when the car is cold, then it and the door chime stop working after a few minutes. All connections under the hood are clean. I may pill the cluster tonight and check. Any ideas?

[Cracker Red]

Sounds like what my 318ti did for a long time.

I changed the thermo in it three times, and the lower hose would NEVER get cold. I took the thermo out (it was summer), and went about my day.

In the winter time I needed heat, so I put a thermo back in it.....and everything has been fine since. NO idea what fixed it, and yes I was putting the thermo in the correct way.

No help, but I understand your frustration. Looks like I'll be doing a M50 swap soon, so if you find a solution please post/follow up.

[isolatos]

If I start the car and run it for 15 minutes it will open up. But if I hop in it and drive it won't open, never gets hot enough. I have an 88 degree thermostat. I have used a power flush machine to flush the system twice. I think I am gonna hook the machine up for a normal flush an get the car hot and flush it. I'll let ya know.

On the tach issue. It seems that if I unhook the door chime the tach works perfectly. Very odd.

[isolatos]

So I took the tsat out, it was in correctly, I made sure the arrow was facing up. Jacked the car up like crazy and filled through the upper hose, let it sit, filled, etc. Hooked everything back up, massaged hoses with the cap off, started the car and I still have the same issue, the gauge wont get outta the blue, it gets to the very top of it. I ran the car for 45 minutes at idle and the tstat never opened. Any advise??? Should I buy an 80 degree tstat???