Knock Sensor Codes

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  • nrubenstein
    replied
    FWIW, the knock sensor code turned out to be a moron problem. I finally gave up and pulled the intake (quite a while ago) and discovered that I had bottomed out the bolt I'd used to install the forward knock sensor.

    Still chasing my tail on the DME code, though.

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  • FredK
    replied
    Look carefully on the harness wiring. The harness I have is actually labeled with 1 and 2 on the wire, right behind the boot.

    The wire labeled 1 corresponds to cylinders 1-3. Black wire is continuous with DME Pin 70
    The wire labeled 2 corresponds to cylinders 4-6. Black wire is continuous with DME Pin 69

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  • Adrian_Visser
    replied
    With a DMM set to continuity beep. Look up the front and rear knock sensor pins on the DME connector using the ETM.

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  • BustaRhymes325i
    replied
    how is this accomplished?

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  • samiam3356
    replied
    Continuity test.

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  • BustaRhymes325i
    replied
    Im hooking mine up right now on my s50, and I cannot differentiate between the 2. I pull back the boot, and they are 2 wires, one is black, one is clear. This is on both connectors. Can anyone verify how to tell which is front and which is rear?

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  • nrubenstein
    replied
    Originally posted by sharky
    I had a hell of a time getting used uncracked OBD1 sensors for my car, I went through atleast 6 or 8. Anyhow I had one good and one with a small crack that I epoxied. It has held fine but If I could do it again I would cough up the 150 or so for 2 new ones.
    The annoying thing is that the sensors that I have are uncracked and and in great shape. I guess I'll make sure that they are plugged in correctly.

    Of course, I also have a DME code now. Second frigging DME, too. If I can just solve the stupid check engine light, I can get this thing registered.

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  • sharky
    replied
    I had a hell of a time getting used uncracked OBD1 sensors for my car, I went through atleast 6 or 8. Anyhow I had one good and one with a small crack that I epoxied. It has held fine but If I could do it again I would cough up the 150 or so for 2 new ones.

    Leave a comment:


  • Adrian_Visser
    replied
    Hmm so the cracked and beat up looking ones I got along with my other OBD I sensors probably won't work then? I was going to cover them in silicone and see what happened...

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  • mega_t2008
    replied
    Originally posted by sharky
    are they cracked? you may have hooked them wrong, if you pull down the covering there is a blue mark on one and a yellow mark on another, they go specifically to front or back. Get the right orientation and torque too.

    Leave a comment:


  • nrubenstein
    replied
    Originally posted by sharky
    are they cracked? you may have hooked them wrong, if you pull down the covering there is a blue mark on one and a yellow mark on another, they go specifically to front or back. Get the right orientation and torque too.
    Perfect condition, they weren't a problem in the donor car.

    I guess I'll have to pull the manifold off and check them.

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  • sharky
    replied
    are they cracked? you may have hooked them wrong, if you pull down the covering there is a blue mark on one and a yellow mark on another, they go specifically to front or back. Get the right orientation and torque too.

    Leave a comment:


  • nrubenstein
    started a topic Knock Sensor Codes

    Knock Sensor Codes

    So, I'm getting codes for both the front and rear knock sensors on the S50.

    Would having them hooked up backwards cause a code? (I guessed which plug to use when I hooked them up.)

    Is there anything else that I should check before I replace them?
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