Love your C101!!!

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  • lifeiskaos
    replied
    Originally posted by M3 euro ltw
    I suppose for the E30 crowd, I could use the sender for the cluster only, and split the signal to the DME, and adjust its table??????

    (yuch, not appetizing)
    Not a big fan of that... I'd use a DME coolant temp sensor (obd1 sensor would be fine) in the port in the head, then find somewhere else to put the gauge sensor... Although it has to be metal, so it has a ground...

    Click image for larger version

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    Looking at that picture, I think I might put the gauge sensor #18 and the DME sensor to be in the #4 spot

    That's a tough one.

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  • M3 euro ltw
    replied
    Hey guys, a quick question for you all.

    I'm working hard on a plug and play system to drop S54's into older cars that I want to be as complete as possible. To be honest, the first harnesses I'm doing will be OBD-1 E36, but it will be a small jump to make a C101 instead of the X20... but here goes a question for the pro's

    **************
    Pin#4 – Br/Vi – Water temp – This is the signal wire for the e30 clusters water temp gauge. The e30 sensor should be grounded to the engine. The terminal on the sensor should be connected to a wire that connects directly to c101. From there it goes straight to the cluster temp gauge. This sensor is not used by the DME at all. For an accurate temp gauge the correct e30 temp sensor must be used.

    ************** Revised after getting the proper answer ******

    Thanks to board members for the answers.

    The sender for the E30 cluster is apparently grounded through the chassis which doesn't really yield what is considered an optimal set up for using coolant temperature for the DME's purposes of cold starts, temperature compensation etc....

    For E30 customers I will be offering a trade in for their core coolant manifold, my machine shop will TIG weld on a very professionally done bung for the E30 cluster temp sender. We'll use the factory S54 coolant sensor which is the two wire version in the stock location, and we've calibrated those already to have a proper temperature/voltage table.

    This will be relatively inexpensive, and unless directed to return the exact same manifold (ie, its pristine, you must have a pristine one back) I think I'll collect some, and have them ready to go, on the shelf as exchange items. Re-using the factory sender saves money too. I'll re-wire the harnesses to accomodate the E30 sender AND the S54 one. No biggie at this point.

    Sorry for the WOB

    Alex.
    Last edited by M3 euro ltw; 06-01-2010, 08:13 AM. Reason: revised

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  • redneckvtek
    replied
    just did this on my e30 (85 to 91 swap).. saved my life. Thanks!

    IIRC, 86 and up got the round c101. before, square one.

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  • xLegendOZWest
    replied
    absolutely amazing! but i gotta ask. where is the year split between "early" and "Late" e30s. i mean obviously i figure anything with plastic bumpers is later, but what about the 88? (weren't there some differences between it and say an 86?)
    i guess the reason i ask is because i never really knew where my car fit in when it came to wiring differences.

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  • BeirBrennerE30
    replied
    Originally posted by deansbimmer
    Thanks for posting this. It saved me some homework in my diagrams. Now, all we want from you is similar info on modding as S62 ecu! :D
    I could do that... but there are are over 100 pins and not 20 lol

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  • deansbimmer
    replied
    Thanks for posting this. It saved me some homework in my diagrams. Now, all we want from you is similar info on modding as S62 ecu! :D

    Leave a comment:


  • Fcknslo
    replied
    I can't thank you enough for this information. I'm in the process of switching the wiring harness and can't thank you enough for you taking your time and writing this up. this definitely needs to be stickied

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  • triggrhaapi
    replied
    Originally posted by Wh33lhop
    BRAVO. I didn't have any trouble with my C101, but this is amazing. A huge thumbs up to you sir, this definitely needs a sticky.

    You should probably note, though, that this is for late models. Early-early models had the square C101 and my '87 had about half the signals going through the C101, the tach and road speed coming from the C104.
    Mine too.

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  • evil_twin
    replied
    awesomeness!

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  • ScHpAnKy
    replied
    thank you so much for this!!! :D

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  • samiam3356
    replied
    2nd

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  • funcrew
    replied
    Sticky

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  • samiam3356
    replied
    Noice! Looks like you've spent some time in the manuals.

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  • BeirBrennerE30
    replied
    Originally posted by Wh33lhop

    You should probably note, though, that this is for late models. Early-early models had the square C101 and my '87 had about half the signals going through the C101, the tach and road speed coming from the C104.
    I think for most of the pins that wouldnt be on the early cars i specifed late only or c104 location. nad yes this is only the round c101.

    ethrty... both 6 and 7 are +12v when the car is in run or start. the ECU power usually comes from the battery(junction block on the firewall on the passenger side) and the on signal would be either 6 or 7 depending if you needed it fused or not

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  • Wh33lhop
    replied
    BRAVO. I didn't have any trouble with my C101, but this is amazing. A huge thumbs up to you sir, this definitely needs a sticky.

    You should probably note, though, that this is for late models. Early-early models had the square C101 and my '87 had about half the signals going through the C101, the tach and road speed coming from the C104.
    Last edited by Wh33lhop; 02-26-2010, 12:41 PM.

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