Peake not working

[balooshinakus]

Hey guys,
I bought a Peake tool, and I do have 12 volts to the power line leading to the diagnostic port, but the tool does nothing, not even light up.

My s50 was originally an auto and I trimmed a bunch of wires off to get rid of the auto wiring, but I was very careful about trimming wires.

I guess my real question is, shouldn't the scanner at least light up if it is being powered? Or will it stay lights out unless it is connected to the computer? I'm trying to figure out if I just have a bad unit or if my wiring is screwed up.

[balooshinakus]

Bump, anyone?

I just need to know if the peake tool is supposed to at least light up when it gets power, so I can diagnose if mine is broken.

[flyboyx]

ok, you have the same problem that everyone else has with a swapped engine. i am pretty sure that the port where you have 12v power doesn't match up with any of the pins on the peake. take a close look at this. i don't have my wiring diagram in front of me, but in order for mine to work i had to run power to one of the pins down by the 5 oclock position if i remember correctly. make sure you add switched power(accy, run, and start), not continuous. i think the power source you speak of above is continuous. when you find the pin that needs to be powered, i think the best solution is to run a wire from the fuse box.

[balooshinakus]

I added power to the red wire that goes to the diagnostic plug. I did use constant power, but I have it disconnected now, I just didn't want to bother finding a switched power source because I don't see why the tool would care if it is switched or not.. I mean, you are only supposed to plug the tool in once you have the ignition turned so you have power on, so the tool would never know if it is switched or not..

Did you have to change wiring inside the diagnostic plug? It seems like it should be ready to go out of the box assuming the red wire is powered.

[flyboyx]

the reason it doesn't work isn't an issue with the tool. it has more to do with the wires that we do and do not hook up as a result of everyone following the sins of our fathers so to speak. i mean to say that everyone follows the diagrams that were written and posted by fellow members instead of doing their own research. sometimes free advice is good and gets you started in the right direction and sometimes you get what you pay for and worse. the tool will work with constant power, but it will be a pain in the ass to use. instead of just cycling the key, you will have to unplug the tool, walk around to the driver side of the car cycle the key and plug the tool back in every time you reset it. it is really easy to just find a switched source. you just need to figure out which of the terminals needs 12v power an apply it there by changing your wiring under the hood. i wish i could tell you which terminal needs power, but i am sitting a hotel in washington dc writing this and my car is in houston. you have the ability to figure it out. somewhere on line is a wiring diagram to decode all the wires on the diagnostic plug. do a search here or the other forum. start with that and a volt meter with the key in the on position on your car. it was really obvious to me when i worked through it and it will probably be obvious to you too. good luck

brian

[balooshinakus]

Okay, so basically what you are telling me is I have some other issue, because with constant power it should be working.

Does every pin on the tool correspond to a connected wire on the diagnostic port? When I was looking at my port it was clear that some of the pins wouldn't be in contact with anything. Additionally, I cut out two of the wires when I removed my automatic harness wiring, but those shouldn't matter because the only thing they were hooked up to was the transmission computer (if I remember correctly..).