Is this safe?

[Turd]

.

[Farbin Kaiber]

eh. I'd have safety wired it, gonna be hard to get that bitch off if you have to replace the pump.

[sharky]

should be fine, shouldnt se 300 degree temps if is cooled right. Personaly I used locktite and hammersd the threads.

[Mossman]

I wouldn't worry about that coming off unless you really really wanted it to and had about 2 hours to devote to the task

[Wh33lhop]

Ugh. I'm still semi-worried about my oil pump nut. I red-loctited it down, but then torqued it on a little too tight; I think I stretched the stud, but I don't have access to a yard to get a new one.

[flyboyx]

I used "JB Kwik" on my oil pump nut.

It was lathered on the threads prior to installing the nut, then applied ontop of the nut once tightened.

I've done some reading up on this stuff and the tensile strength is 2100 psi. It can withstand up to 300 degrees F*.

Im not too confident with the temperature threshold rating, some more research could've been of use before I lathered it on, but I was so in the moment you could say. :roll:






Ye, or Ne

well, it may or may not be better than nothing. if you don't have the engine installed in the car, i would take it back apart and use a method more professionally acceptable. even lock tite would be ok. it would be pretty easy to just drill a hole through the side of the bolt head and run a piece of stainless wire through it and tie it around one of the gear holes. honestly, if i had that repair in my engine i wouldn't be able to sleep at night worrying about weather or not it would do its job.

Ugh. I'm still semi-worried about my oil pump nut. I red-loctited it down, but then torqued it on a little too tight; I think I stretched the stud, but I don't have access to a yard to get a new one.

why not just get a bolt at the dealer or mail order? can't be that expensive. why take a chance on a used bolt when your entire engine is at stake? with all of this said, i haven't heard of the pump bolt backing out unless the engine is being raced.

[SamE30e]

Um... A little excessive.

[7pilot]

May I just list some observations?.

1,The weld stuff has a different rate of expansion than the steel wheel and the nut.
2,There will be hopefully for you numerous, but several heating and cooling cycles.
3,Oil can infuse behind the weld material via the oil pump spline drive for the wheel...like a rust penetrant.
4, the wheel will vibrate and flex in use.
5, the wheel has a certain porosity, so I hope you baked the wheel.



m

[etxxz]

you'll find out one day. Certainly better than nothing. Its going to help somewhere in between nothing and a welded OPN. Safety wire or weld IMO. I welded mine after a catastrophic engine failure from the OPN backing off.

[evil_twin]

eh. I'd have safety wired it, gonna be hard to get that bitch off if you have to replace the pump.

I am thinking about safety wiring my OPN, has anybody done it?

[etxxz]

^^ hundreds of e36's have successfully.. track, racers, spec guys. hell they all told me not to weld my nut but i wanted to patch my engine up (sort of like this guy here) and just talked the front of my OPN. I'd have to grind it down to remove my nut, but it certainly isn't falling off again under any circumstance.

[jrdeamicis]

To replace the internal parts of an OP is significantly cheaper than replacing the pump look it up. Even if you have to GRIND the nut off you can replace the internals for under 100.

[etxxz]

interesting. info to this please.

[e30s50dan]

as long as you cleaned the hell out of it,it will hold ! neat idea,I just welded mine,but then again,I weld everything!

[Turd]

After some research, I have no confidence in this haste decision. I'll weld it this weekend, once, and for all.