Starts, stumbles, and dies...

[MattM]

as i said in my earlier post throwing parts at it is going to end up costing a fortune, and odds are you will replace the entire engine before you solve the problem.

the engine should run alright without the o2 sensor, and the maf shouldnt make the engine die, and can easily be testing following directions that have come up afew times on here with just a simple multimeter(do a search and you will find it), did you even test the other 2 MAF's? did you try removing the chip and trying it again? also, try to borrow a different ECU, this is starting to sound like a ECU problem.

air intake sensor, is beside the vacum nipple for the booster on the intake. test the resistance on the sensor before you go and buy a new one, also check the wire colors going to it according to the ETM. ALso tripple check all your sensors and stuff, i know it sounds silly and like a borken record, but it is very easy to plug the wrong item into a plug, and if one thing is plugged in wrong, especially items like the ICV, the engine will NOT run well.

[r4esh]

Yes, I did test the other 2 MAFs. On one the resistance seemed fine, but I was stumped when the car ran with it unplugged and I was 90% sure all the wiring was correct.... Eitherway, after I knew I had a good one, someone suggested it was because I had no O2 and that it wasn't listening to the 'chip' I put in for the larger MAF and intake.

You say don't just throw parts at it, but I don't know anyone in town with parts to test. For example IF there is an issue with my DME... then I have no way of troubleshooting this without coughing up the dough....

P.S. - Does anyone know if the e30 O2 sensor will work for this swap (if obd1)??? The two O2 sensors look EXACTLY the same.

[MattM]

dont have a wreaker nearby?, at least thats cheaper troubleshooting then new, also most will let you return anything within so many days if it doesnt work.

i hope that didnt come accross as being rude or anything, as i wasnt trying to be, just trying to save you some cash. lol i would be in rage myself if i spent $300 on a part and it doesnt do anything...

[r4esh]

Yeah.. Tucson kinda sucks for Beemer junk yards. I usually have to spend a good 45 mins on the phone before I can locate what I need and its often pretty pricey. I guess I'll do that and find a DME to test.

Supposedly our local 'independent BMW' has done a few dozen of these swaps for customers and said that for $99 bucks an hour they would be able to figure out whats going on with it / fix it....

[Nick325is]

We have the exact same problem. I've got an obd1 m52 with s52 cams, 3.5hfm, TRM chip etc etc. If I start the car when cold it will start and then do the exact same thing yours does. If i've driven it for a bit and then try to let it idle it will idle but its very rough.

I've driven the car just fine for months and it just recently started doing this. I've got a spare red label here that I am going to throw in this weekend and see if that helps.

-Nick

[r4esh]

Let me know if that works Nick. I'm at a total loss right now and can't just keep wasting time... I need my car back. I'm going to pull my intake tomorrow. Then... if I can't figure it out I'm probably going to spend too much money by taking it to a local that has done this a handful of times... ($99 bucks an hour... arg.)

[r4esh]

Hey also!!! I don't think my thermostat is opening.... The bottom hose always stays cold even after running it for a good 5-10 mins.. at first I thought I just hadn't gotten it hot enough, but for ANY reason would the temperature of the motor have anything to do with it?

[MattM]

one hose should be colder then the other, that means the rad/fan are working, i cant remember off hand which is in and which is out though... what does your temp guage say?

[r4esh]

Yeaahh, back to this thread... so the top hose should be hot, bottom should be "warm" not cold after running for a good 10 mins. Today I pulled the intake.. I've got no vacuum leaks and began testing sensors based off the ETM tests. I didn't get to all the sensors, but ICV and TPS are good.

When I turn the key to the 'On' position, the idle control valve makes the 'audible noise' the ETM refers to, and I can feel a vibration from it. I also cleaned it with rubbing alcohol thoroughly until the valve inside would move freely when I wiggled it in my hand.

Where I'm at now / one thing I'm suspicious of:
#1: So I'm suspicious now that maybe the "engine temperature sensor" isn't working. I purchased the adapter from Turner that is made for the OBD2 to OBD1 swap. My temperature gauge isn't climbing at all and never does. The gauge AND the ecu both listen to this sensor. It is possible that the wiring somewhere between that sensor and the gauge aren't right- I did the ETM check for the wire (said to jump the wires together and see if the gauge jumps) and it didn't. This is the ONLY test listed in the ETM related to the engine temperature sensor. I imagine that if that sensor were bad then that could be throwing me off. So...

Does anyone know how to test the engine temperature sensor to see if it is working properly?

#2 - I was somewhat retarded, because I just ran a hose from my brake booster to my intake - without the "check valve". I don't know if that matters or not, I know it will for braking, but as far as vacuum I don't think so. My car was originally an automatic so I couldn't use the old "check valve" - Another part to order.

[7pilot]

From your post .
#2 - I was somewhat retarded, because I just ran a hose from my brake booster to my intake - without the "check valve". I don't know if that matters or not, I know it will for braking, but as far as vacuum I don't think so. My car was originally an automatic so I couldn't use the old "check valve" - Another part to order.



If you don't have a check valve in this large Vacuum line, then you are providing a source of unmeasured air to your engine.

m

[416stroker]

from your post .


If you don't have a check valve in this large vacuum line, then you are providing a source of unmeasured air to your engine.

M

um no that has nothing to do with it. It should be fine unless your booster is bad/torn.

[416stroker]

Yeaahh, back to this thread... so the top hose should be hot, bottom should be "warm" not cold after running for a good 10 mins. Today I pulled the intake.. I've got no vacuum leaks and began testing sensors based off the ETM tests. I didn't get to all the sensors, but ICV and TPS are good.

When I turn the key to the 'On' position, the idle control valve makes the 'audible noise' the ETM refers to, and I can feel a vibration from it. I also cleaned it with rubbing alcohol thoroughly until the valve inside would move freely when I wiggled it in my hand.

Where I'm at now / one thing I'm suspicious of:
#1: So I'm suspicious now that maybe the "engine temperature sensor" isn't working. I purchased the adapter from Turner that is made for the OBD2 to OBD1 swap. My temperature gauge isn't climbing at all and never does. The gauge AND the ecu both listen to this sensor. It is possible that the wiring somewhere between that sensor and the gauge aren't right- I did the ETM check for the wire (said to jump the wires together and see if the gauge jumps) and it didn't. This is the ONLY test listed in the ETM related to the engine temperature sensor. I imagine that if that sensor were bad then that could be throwing me off. So...

Does anyone know how to test the engine temperature sensor to see if it is working properly?

#2 - I was somewhat retarded, because I just ran a hose from my brake booster to my intake - without the "check valve". I don't know if that matters or not, I know it will for braking, but as far as vacuum I don't think so. My car was originally an automatic so I couldn't use the old "check valve" - Another part to order.

The turner adapter doesnt work with out cars. Theres a few threads about this and the sender to the gauge is completly differnt than the one for the DME. Theres two tepm sensors one for the cluster and one for the dme

What sender are you using the m20 one? You have to use the m20 one for the gauge and the
m5x one for the dme of corse

[MattM]

im not using a check valve on the booster either, and it runs fine.

[r4esh]

MattM - YEah I didn't think the booster would have anything to do with the Vacuum. But your saying the check valve isn't needed AT ALL ?

416stroker - Oh man, I didn't know the turner adapter doesn't work for the temp guage... whats the point of it then... damn.... waist-o-money

As far as what sender I'm using... the "engine temperature sensor" that is screwed into the block is the one that came on the 'm52 engine'. Is it not supposed to be? Are we supposed to use the m20 one? It threads properly + has the appropriate connector?

Wait nevermind. I think I just confused myself on your post. You must be running an m/s50 motor where there are 2 temp sensors. One for the engine DME and one for the gauge. BUT in the base of the m/s52 motors (obd2 motors) there is only 1.. which is the point of the adapter Turner makes. But your saying that it doesn't work for the gauge on this swap? What can I do to get the gauge to work on the OBD2 motors? Use the OBD1 Temp sender?

Anyway to test the engine temperature sensor? Because if this weren't working, or if the DME wasn't getting a signal, then the car would run like shyte ya?

[416stroker]

The adapters not for the E30's cluster

You also have to add the one for gauge. Read about other peoples swaps its all been coverd over and over again. Get a obd1 m50 sender for the dme and a m20 sender for the cluster. Your going to have to drill and tap the head or add it in a line someplace.

ya and you dont need the check valve it wont hurt anything


The car will have a bad idle if the if the sender for the dme is bad and you hav the wrong one installed for you DME. I had one go out and the car loped and ran like total shit.