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Brake pedal wont push down(stuck/seized)

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    Brake pedal wont push down(stuck/seized)

    I bought the engine and booster from M4tt on this forum, I never asked him what kind of booster it was. At this point everything is ready to go(i think, ahhahahah) but the brake pedal is seized.
    I have tried bleeding the brake calipers one by one, tried bleeding the master cylinder. Nothing seems to make it work. When the bleeders are open, the pedal goes down fine, but when I close everything back up; no movement again. The calipers are not seized, so when I test drove the car I used the e-brake. Anyone have any idea of what could be the problem?

    #2
    is the vacum line hooked up? if you press hard on it when moving do the brakes work?

    if you dont have a check valve on that vacum line it will be very tough to press wgen the engine is off


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      #3
      Originally posted by MattM View Post
      is the vacum line hooked up? if you press hard on it when moving do the brakes work?

      if you dont have a check valve on that vacum line it will be very tough to press wgen the engine is off
      yes vacuum line is connected, even when i start the car, the brake pedals is still stiff.

      i have the old check valve from the M42 engine, i checked the direction of the air by blowing in the valve and it's the same as the S52 valve. i even tried driving with the check valve off, and same result.
      Last edited by E30_80Y; 03-23-2010, 08:09 AM. Reason: added something

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        #4
        when you press hard on the pedal when moving does it work at all?

        im wondering if the booster is shot.


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          #5
          If the pedal moves when the bleeder is opened, and not when closed its in the MC not the booster.

          To test the booster just unhook the MC (lines attached) and see if the pedal moves.

          You might still have a TON of air in the lines. The rears can be a pain.
          Past Car : E30 S50 6 Speed 5 Lug 3.73
          Current : Z3 S50 OBD2 (Smog Legal) 6 Speed BBS RN Dual Ear Diff
          ___________________________________________
          BNB Designs
          Engine Swaps, Fabrication, Innovation, General Repair
          Richmond CA
          Julian 848-248-8029

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            #6
            the booster provides power to reduce the force required on the brake pedal, so if it was punctured or what else, then this assistance would not be provided. hence making the brake pedal very hard(especially on these swapped cars, most of which dont have a check valve) I can barely press my pedal when the car has been off for awhile, but as soon as i start it up the pedal goes to normal pressure.

            Air can compress more then brake fluid, so if air was in the lines the pedal would be too soft and 'spongy' the opposite of what he is experiancing.

            do you have ABS?


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              #7
              Originally posted by MattM View Post
              the booster provides power to reduce the force required on the brake pedal, so if it was punctured or what else, then this assistance would not be provided. hence making the brake pedal very hard(especially on these swapped cars, most of which dont have a check valve) I can barely press my pedal when the car has been off for awhile, but as soon as i start it up the pedal goes to normal pressure.

              Air can compress more then brake fluid, so if air was in the lines the pedal would be too soft and 'spongy' the opposite of what he is experiancing.

              do you have ABS?
              yes i have ABS.

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                #8
                have you tried applying some force to the brakes well moving to see if they do anything? it may require a fair amount of force. If they do work, even the slightest bit(depending on how hard you can press on the pedal, the pressure you put on the pedal will the be the same pressure that the pads will apply to the rotors..) then that means the MC, and your bleeding is fine, and its likely its your booster. the brakes arent that complicated a setup really.

                also the fact that you can bleed it means that the pedal mechanisim and MC are fine.
                Last edited by MattM; 03-23-2010, 01:38 PM.


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                  #9
                  Might be silly, but have you adjusted the fork on the interior side on the booster?
                  IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here

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                    #10
                    before i posted this i searched and found a thread talking about adjusting the fork, but it wasn't so clear to me. I will try again tomorrow, I will let you guys know once I find something! thanks everyone so far, more suggestion would still be great.

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                      #11
                      Originally posted by E30_80Y View Post
                      before i posted this i searched and found a thread talking about adjusting the fork, but it wasn't so clear to me. I will try again tomorrow, I will let you guys know once I find something! thanks everyone so far, more suggestion would still be great.
                      I made a post some time ago with similar issue:



                      Hope its that simple!!
                      IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here

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                        #12
                        oh dear! i'm a dummy, and i got my fingers crossed. hoping that what i just discovered is the culprit! i think it's the air pump(below the intake manifold, with the hose connecting to the port right where the intake booth connects to the manifold) was disconnected, i must have knocked it off while working around it. i will give you guys an update once i have time to work and test it some more!

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                          #13
                          It moves now when the car is on, but with a lot of force. It's like what MattM says.

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                            #14
                            its the booster then. time to replace.


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                              #15
                              Originally posted by MattM View Post
                              its the booster then. time to replace.
                              is there a slight chance that it could be the fork adjustment? i'm not doubting you ahhahahah just trying to see if i can save some money. i'm starting to go over budget on this swap :(

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