People who have raceland headers question

[brn2ply7]

Could the interference issues be avoided by heating the pipe and moving it over?

[e30polak]

On the swap car we did, we modified the downpipes after the collectors, but still had to do a bit of notching on the subframe.

[Adrian_Visser]

Not to thread jack but how many have had to drill out the holes in the header flanges to line up with the studs on the head?

I had to drill mine out to 11/32'' which closely matches the hole sizing of the OE headers. The rear header still doesn't slide on easily and needs a bit of a whack to go on.

[E30FTW]

I had to drill out all the holes to 11/32" to fit properly, and I opted to mark the subframe drop it out, cut out a cats eye shaped notch, and weld in a new curved plate to give it the clearance and the strength.

Don't crush in or cut and rebend the headers. Much easier to alter the subframe.

[SamE30e]

I didn't have to do anything.

[atldohc]

You guys r referring to the two piece and not the 4 piece headers right? I might switch to these bc the flanges are already built onto the downpipes. Also has anyone noted any ground clearance issues?

[E30FTW]

I didn't have to do anything.

You must have a 1" spacer under your engine mounts then. I just don't how that is possible.

You guys r referring to the two piece and not the 4 piece headers right? I might switch to these bc the flanges are already built onto the downpipes. Also has anyone noted any ground clearance issues?

These were the ones I was talking about, and assumed the OP was.

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[atldohc]

thanks for the info. offhand do you remember how deep you had to notch the subframe? also whats the deal with the air injection ports on top? are those closed off already or do they require some modification?

[atldohc]

thanks for the info. offhand do you remember how deep you had to notch the subframe? also whats the deal with the air injection ports on top? are those closed off already or do they require some modification?

-edit-nevermind i see they are closed off with bolts from the pic

[E30FTW]

Overall the subframe was clearanced about 3/4" at its deepest point. Just "droop" the subframe by supporting the engine (block of wood with a jack on the pan will get it done) and back out all 4 subframe bolts all but a tooth or 2 and you can install the headers. After that mark the subframe where you need the clearance and drop it the rest of the way out to modify it.

The rear set has no rubbing issues, only the front. It tries to occupy the same space as the subframe through pretty much all of the collector.

The air ports on my headers were already threaded M8x1.5 IIRC, so I just went to ACE and picked up 6 stainless bolts 15mm long.

[SamE30e]

You must have a 1" spacer under your engine mounts then. I just don't how that is possible.



These were the ones I was talking about, and assumed the OP was.

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Nope.They just fit, I didn't have to shave my intake manifold either. My car is magical, things that don't fit on "normal" e30's fit on mine. They aren't the ones with the flanges, they're the long tubes.

[E30FTW]

Nope.They just fit, I didn't have to shave my intake manifold either. My car is magical, things that don't fit on "normal" e30's fit on mine. They aren't the ones with the flanges, they're the long tubes.

Yeah, you have completely different headers than the ones being discussed in this thread. It sounds like you have the US Supersprint replicas, which fit fine for everyone, plus or minus a quarter inch shim under the engine mount.

If you had the Euro Supersprint replica headers (Racelands) you would understand why they don't fit.

[SamE30e]

Yeah, makes sense. My bad. But if it makes you feel better they sit way too close together to put a flange on.