need help with final issues with my S52 swap

[nextelbuddy]

ok so last week we were able to start the engine open header to confirm the engine ran. it started up and we shut it down.

at that time i had the cluster plugged in and confirmed the tech worked as expected and never ran the engine long enough to see rise in coolant temp.


today got the exhaust semi mounted andstarted engine. noticed now the tach does not work. the only thing that changed was i got a newer VDO cluster (my old one was motometer) the new VDO cluster has the same coding pug as my motometer but i threw back in the moto meter just t see what would happen and tech doesnt work still.

the tach and coolant does not work however fuel seems to work just gine and all other lights and indicators work as well. CEL comes on pre engine start and goes away after i start the engine.




2nd problem - i am running a S52 stock OBD2 header and supersprint mid pipe and after mounting this up now my sway bar doesnt bolt back up. looks like i need a spacer but i havent seen anyone else document a spacer needed for their sway bars. maybe i could dent in the mid pipe where the sway bar interferes?




3rd issue - i purchased a silver label 413 DME and got a TRM EWS disabled chip with a program i wanted. i can not start the car with the silver label 413 ad TRM chip unless i manually ground the fuel pump relay but if i borrow my friends red label 413 DME it starts just fie wotu out grounding the relay and i can use what ever chip i want.


i searched and saw people cutting pin 7 green wire on the driver side diagnostic plug but that doesnt make sense as that wire doesnt go to anything on E30s so whats the point of cutting it? and my chip is EWS disable so it should work so im just confused on this.


thanks for any and all help

[SiGmA_X]

Regarding EWS, on e36's with TRM's software in silver labels, you need to cut pin 66 (green?) at the DME plug.

Regarding CLT/Tacho, sounds like a connection/wiring pin issue.

[matt]

In an e30, there is nothing on the other end of that wire, you don't need to cut it. That sounds like a bad DME.

The other issues are probably wiring adapter related.

[nextelbuddy]

well there really isnt any way for me to check the DME i guess because it would need to be realigned with another car to see if it works.

for now the red label 413 i have works fine. guess ill just hang onto this silver label for now.

Matt thats exactly what i said to myself. i read all over the place that you need to cut Pin 7 green wire on the driver side plug but honestly that wire doesnt connect to anything so what purpose would it serve to cut it. i think that really was only when dealign with E36 chasis and body harness applications.


the tach i figured out. one of the fuses was blown and then after that i had to tap the dash to get it to spring up into action.


the water temp issue i figured out that i installed the wrong sensor.

i have the proper BLUE one for the DME but the BROWN M20 sensor i broke when i pulled the engine so i went to autozone and got a bosch E36 water temp sensor instead but from reading the forums it wont give the right signal so i have ordered the proper m20 brown top water sensor.

im still stumped on if i will have to retap the head with a different thread pitch for the M20 sensor.

my cylinder head is an early S52 head that already had the proper holes for the temp sensors so i didnt have to do any manual tapping but from reading here people still have to rethread one hole for the M20 sensor?

[surebimmer]

2nd problem - i am running a S52 stock OBD2 header and supersprint mid pipe and after mounting this up now my sway bar doesnt bolt back up. looks like i need a spacer but i havent seen anyone else document a spacer needed for their sway bars. maybe i could dent in the mid pipe where the sway bar interferes?

You can dent your pipe. I also sell a spacer that will space the swaybar down 1/2 inch. PM me if you want more info.

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showpost.php?p=1726030&postcount=1