proper way to bleed cooling system?

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  • 89325iturbo
    Mod Crazy
    • Mar 2004
    • 723

    #1

    proper way to bleed cooling system?

    whats the best way to get the air out?

    also my gas gauge doesnt read correctly anymore, and seems to move around with the engine revs.
  • shiboujin
    R3VLimited
    • Feb 2006
    • 2791

    #2
    fill, turn car on, idle, get to operating temp with the heat going full blast until it sucks down an ass load of coolant. Then cap off, drive, fill up, done.

    Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

    Comment

    • R&D man
      Member
      • Mar 2010
      • 79

      #3
      bleeding

      I heard about drilling a small diameter hole in the thermostat in the top position to allow air to flow through

      Comment

      • 89325iturbo
        Mod Crazy
        • Mar 2004
        • 723

        #4
        The heater core is bypassed in my car.

        Comment

        • shiboujin
          R3VLimited
          • Feb 2006
          • 2791

          #5
          Originally posted by 89325iturbo
          The heater core is bypassed in my car.
          weight savings? or you just got lazy? Either way, I wag my finger at you sir.

          Status: HG repair. 488wtq though!

          Comment

          • Mossman
            E30 Mastermind
            • Apr 2006
            • 1961

            #6
            when the car is hot loosen the hose clamp on the top radiator hose and slide a pick or small screw driver in between the rad. and the hose on the top side, just enough to get a spurt of coolant. That's always worked for me on systems with no bleed screw that seemed to have trapped air.

            Comment

            • 89325iturbo
              Mod Crazy
              • Mar 2004
              • 723

              #7
              My heater core was leaking.

              Comment

              • guzz81
                Noobie
                • Dec 2009
                • 16

                #8
                This setup is incredible. I use mine daily...

                Comment

                • rThor432
                  No R3VLimiter
                  • Feb 2007
                  • 3907

                  #9
                  Originally posted by R&D man
                  I heard about drilling a small diameter hole in the thermostat in the top position to allow air to flow through
                  This works very well, except I would not recommend it for a cold climate (like Canada). Might give some issues getting to temp, especially in the winter.

                  Comment

                  • Adrian_Visser
                    R3VLimited
                    • Jun 2006
                    • 2823

                    #10
                    Originally posted by rThor432
                    This works very well, except I would not recommend it for a cold climate (like Canada). Might give some issues getting to temp, especially in the winter.
                    Do you think it'll make that much of a difference? I drilled a little hole in mine worked great for bleeding. We'll have to wait for the winter to see if I have warm up issues I guess.

                    '89 Alpine S52 with goodies

                    Comment

                    • 89325iturbo
                      Mod Crazy
                      • Mar 2004
                      • 723

                      #11
                      Is it suppose to bubble at all? I could take the cap off my m20 after driving. With this a short drive and it would be bubbling out if I take the cap off.

                      Comment

                      • jlevie
                        R3V OG
                        • Nov 2006
                        • 13530

                        #12
                        The proper way to bleed the cooling system is:

                        1) Using ramps or a jack get the front of the car 1' or more higher than
                        the rear. That will make the radiator and bleed screw the highest point
                        on the engine and facilitate removal of air.

                        2) With the bleed screw open, add coolant until no more air comes out of
                        the bleed.

                        3) Leave the filler cap off, or at least loose, and set the heat for max
                        temp and fan speed. Leaving the cap loose will prevent air that's still
                        in the system from causing a "coolant fountain" once the engine heats
                        up. Start the engine and allow it to warm up to operating temp. As it
                        warms up occasionally crack the bleed screw to release any air and top
                        up the coolant as necessary.

                        4) Once the engine is at temp bring it up to 2000-2500 for a few seconds
                        several times. Then crack the bleed until no more air is released. At
                        this point the heater should be throwing lots of hot air, which
                        indicates that the heater core is filled with coolant. You may have to
                        repeat this a few times to get all the air out.

                        5) Drive the car a bit, allow it to cool back down, and recheck the
                        bleed for air. Over the next few days you may get very small amounts (a
                        few bubbles) of air out of the bleed screw.

                        A small hole (1/8-3/16") in the thermostat will have a negligible affect on engine operation and will make filling the cooling system easier.

                        Originally posted by 89325iturbo
                        The heater core is bypassed in my car.
                        Don't loop the heater hoses, plug them. If you loop the hoses part of the coolant flow will bypass the radiator when the thermostat is open.
                        The car makes it possible, but the driver makes it happen.
                        Jim Levie, Huntsville, AL

                        Comment

                        • 89325iturbo
                          Mod Crazy
                          • Mar 2004
                          • 723

                          #13
                          Plug them with what?

                          Comment

                          • surebimmer
                            E30 Modder
                            • Jan 2004
                            • 978

                            #14
                            There is no bleed screw on e36 swap cars, unless you use the 318i radiator with expansion tank built in.

                            Comment

                            • isolatos
                              Advanced Member
                              • Dec 2009
                              • 172

                              #15
                              I have some advise to offer. I just replaced my M50 with a different one due to the car overheating. I spent so much time getting the coolant system right the second time, taking every precaution I could. I installed an aftermarket VDO guage and cant keep my eyes off it. I have a brand new M42 radiator, 16 inch electric fan(ran through a relay to a switch in the car, I used water wetter, Zerex G05 coolant and distilled water, New metal impeller water pump and low temp thermostat. I bled the system by jacking the car up as high as possible, filled the coolant, ran the car for 10 minutes-watching the temp like a hawk, then I let the car sit for a couple hours, filled the coolant, opened the bleeder screw, installed cap, and ran the car for a long time, held revs at 2k rpm for a while, closed the bleeder and I was good to go. My temp when driving in 80-90 degree temps sits at 185-190, if the temp gets higher I throw my fan on and it drops immediately.

                              DONT TRY TO GO CHEAP ON COOLING SYSTEMS-THE M50 IS VERY EASY TO OVERHEAT AND CRACK THE HEAD!!!!

                              I have not had any oil or coolant consumption with my new motor and that makes me happy!
                              My .02

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