Anyone rocking a remote oil cooler t-stat?
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Haha seriously??Also forgot to update :)
Not much I can write though, because my findings are almost exactly the same as yours.
Only weird thing is I get the same temps, but don't have an oil cooler. Though the cooler may not keep peak temps down, it will probably cause the temp to go down much quicker.
I don't even know how to interpret this...Leave a comment:
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Also forgot to update :)
Not much I can write though, because my findings are almost exactly the same as yours.
Only weird thing is I get the same temps, but don't have an oil cooler. Though the cooler may not keep peak temps down, it will probably cause the temp to go down much quicker.Leave a comment:
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Should have updated this long ago!
Regular driving = 93°C /200°F
Hot day and/or higher revving = 104°-115° / 220-240°F
Track Conditions - Ambient temps were about 15°-21° / 60°-70°
Temp = 104°-127° / 220-260°F
Also installed a pressure gauge.
Morning startup idle = 5.5 bar / 80psi
Driving with the oil still cold = 3-4 bar / 50-60psi
Idle with operating temps = ~1.3bar / 20psi
Harder driving = ~3.5bar / 50psiLeave a comment:
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mocal 180* tstat and a ~$40 ebay aluminum cooler that looks kinda like this:

these are before i added the tstat.. i lost those pictures when my hose site (acurainspired.com) died... but you get the idea of how i routed the lines. the stat is mounted to the valence after the headlight.


don't mind the colorid car and damage, this is a track car that's been through its fair share of incidents. all go, no show.Leave a comment:
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Turning out to be a great thread.i have the same T-stat as the OP, a 180*F one, the oil cooler is about 12inches wide by 7high and 2.25 wide. I bolted it under the hood hinge tube so it hangs right behind the kidneys and looks like sex. -8AN fittings (1/2" tubes) keeps oil flowing freely, the tstat is mounted to the inside of the valence with an aluminum L-bracket.
I'm using the IE oil cap and ebay electric mookeeh (i think they are called) gauges. They are working fine for me. Total oil cooler setup probably around $450 - DIY'd.
20w50.
40psig on startup
~80psig nearing 3K if i drive with it cold.
Idle at like 8psig.
At the track, hottest ive seen is 22x*F, and this is drifting on a hot (~95*F) day, low gears, high rpm for long periods of time. With the AL radiator i came to realize my car will never overheat short of my "3600CFM" 16" dying.
I didn't think about that mounting location for the t-stat, pretty good call :up:
Weird thing is that I saw temps hitting 260 @ the track...ambient temps were around 95-100 with like 90% humidity. Then again, my oil cooler is not as large. It's a 25 row Earl's oil cooler.Leave a comment:
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i have the same T-stat as the OP, a 180*F one, the oil cooler is about 12inches wide by 7high and 2.25 wide. I bolted it under the hood hinge tube so it hangs right behind the kidneys and looks like sex. -8AN fittings (1/2" tubes) keeps oil flowing freely, the tstat is mounted to the inside of the valence with an aluminum L-bracket.
I'm using the IE oil cap and ebay electric mookeeh (i think they are called) gauges. They are working fine for me. Total oil cooler setup probably around $450 - DIY'd.
20w50.I run 10W60 Valvoline.
Gauge has been installed a couple months.
Regular driving = 90°C /194°F
Hot day and/or higher revving = 100°-105° / 212-220°F
Haven't been above that, will be tracking soon. Water heats up about twice as fast as oil.
Also installed a pressure gauge.
Morning startup idle = 2 bar / 29psi
Driving with the oil still cold = 2-3bar 29-44psi
Idle with operating temps = ~1.5bar / 22psi
Harder driving = 3.5bar / 51psi
Havent been above 4bar / 58psi I think. I have a 10bar / 145psi gauge, because it was offered to me with the other ones, but I'd recommend the 5bar / 72psi version, doubt it would ever go over 5.
I think the pressure values indicate a motor in pretty damn good condition, considering it has god-knows-how-many km's. This is M50B25nv.
40psig on startup
~80psig nearing 3K if i drive with it cold.
Idle at like 8psig.
At the track, hottest ive seen is 22x*F, and this is drifting on a hot (~95*F) day, low gears, high rpm for long periods of time. With the AL radiator i came to realize my car will never overheat short of my "3600CFM" 16" dying.Leave a comment:
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does your VDO pressure sender have it's own dummy light terminal? that's what I used.Leave a comment:
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The oil filter housing bottom thing had 2 holes facing the back of the car, a plugged one and the stock pressure light switch. I decided to keep the pressure light so I bought a Y piece for OEM light + VDO pressure sensor and the VDO oil temp sensor went into the "blank" hole.
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I will post my temps as soon as I start driving the car again. My pressure gauge is reading incorrectly at the moment as well so as soon as thats sorted I'll make sure to post that as well.No prob.
Would like to hear from someone who knows these engines well, what the status of the engine is with these numbers, cause it's almost impossible to find info on that anywhere. Though I do think that if the startup pressure was like 1bar, we could be talking about bad piston rings (if a leak was ruled out).
It's great having engine info right in front of your face.
Off the top of my head though:
Temp on a hot day rev's around 3.5k - 190F/88C - 220F/105C
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I see pretty similar #s to you with M1 15w50. just curious, where did you stick your temp probe?Leave a comment:
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No prob.
Would like to hear from someone who knows these engines well, what the status of the engine is with these numbers, cause it's almost impossible to find info on that anywhere. Though I do think that if the startup pressure was like 1bar, we could be talking about bad piston rings (if a leak was ruled out).
It's great having engine info right in front of your face.Leave a comment:


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